new guy

I saw it but I'm guarenteeing that amps rms is like 1.2k more then that it has 160 amps of fusing. my 1200 watt amp only has 140. id say it can put out around 1300 - 1500 which would be perfect for the aq.

id sell the kenwood buy the 1.2k and 2 more 8s since money is no problem. but if you plan to stay with the 2 8s for a while and not upgrading subs the kenwood will do just fine. those 8s couldnt handle very much more anyways not even enough to be noticeable, plus you dont have to worry about giving them too much power. btw kenwood does make solid amps.

hdc3s?

my friends had 2 10s one d4 and one s4 and wired them together it worked out great. ( the one that was s4 had half of the power handling of the d4 though)

well until im 18 i can only haul around 1 person so seat space isnt really an issue. i was also thinking of doing 2 obsidian 12s if they can fit behind the seat. this should be a little louder right?

well its firing up into the roof so i dont see how it would be any different then having a suv just a smaller cabin.

are the subs brand new? some subs smell for a while when they are new.

where?

any input?

Maybe the new '11 line of L7's. And yes I said the max wattage that they can handle. I was not talking about the rms. And why would that sub give him a 1000 watt limit? Please explain this to me. If an amplifier, lets say Kicker ZX2500 which is stable at 2ohms has a Dual 4ohm Kicker L7 15 sub hooked up to it. The amplifier is still capable of putting out 2500 watts rms to this sub. Yes the ohm load does matter, but what you were referring to is that the amplifier cannot put out any more power than what the sub can handle rms which is completely untrue. I was not attempting to be a dick to him but if I was, then sry. The point that I wanted to get across is that capacitors are basically a gimmick for audio companies. The companies put some flashy LED's on them and sometimes a voltage display and claim that they stop voltage drop, when in reality they do nothing but make more problems. But to be honest, the most voltage drop I had from a stock battery and stock alternator was going from 14.4volts to 12.1volts and I was drawing 160amps of power. Now I draw 300amps of power from 2 deep cycle batteries and a stock alternator and only drop from 14.4volts to 14.2 or 14.1volts. There must be a bad connection between the battery and the amplifier or the battery is bad. Double check everything... well if he has a sub thats only capable of taking 1000 watts and hes sending more then 1200 watts to it then this thread would be about how he blew his sub i wasnt saying because of the sub his amp is unable to put out that much power. i was saying hes not sending 2k watts to a 1000 sub, that hes only capable of putting out around 1000 watts before blowing his sub and he obviously hasnt blown his sub so id say its safe to assume he not putting much more then 1000 to his system. but its all good bro i get what your saying. let not thread jack anymore then we already have

When im idling i'm reading 14.+, when im just playing a bass boosted song. I went to a car audio specialist he told me that it was the capacitor. To tell you, my brother just gave me the capacitor. The cap I guess 5 year old. Haha. I just seek some advice here before i buy a new cap. Honestly I don't think you know a whole lot about car audio and electricity if you're planning on replacing the capacitor. The capacitor will be continually drawing power to recharge because it does not store power. Replace that capacitor with a battery in the back of your car. Did you meter the voltage on the positive and negative inputs of the amplifier? You should have around 14 volts at the amplifier when the engine is running and around 12 volts when the engine is off. Where is your amplifier grounded to? What size gauge wire are you using? What kind of car do you have? No one can really help you until you answer some more questions about what is going on... And replacing the capacitor is the worst idea i've ever heard... The sub isn't what is drawing current. yeah but with that sub it give him about a 1000 watt limit. K you have no idea what you're talking about. Kicker L7 8's, 10's, and 12's have a 1500watt power rating meaning they can handle that much power from the amplifier. Kicker L7 15's have a 2000watt power rating. The subs don't control the wattage that an amplifier can produce... The amplifier controls how much power is sent to the sub. You should actually know what you're saying before you falsely inform someone else. I think this is why most car audio problems exist... lmao ohhhh the irony in your post. first off there is a difference between 2000 max and 2000 rms. if you want to throw 2000 rms at a l7 go ahead make sure to record it too i bet it wont last more then 20 sec if that. second lets take a trip to good ol' kickers web site My link the 8's take 450 rms 900 peak. 10's take 600 rms 1200 peak 12's take 750 rms 1500 peak 15's take 1000 rms and 2000 peak. and last subs do somewhat control what the amp pushes out ( ever heard of ohm load?) so please take your own advice and actually know what your talking about before you go around talking about stuff you know nothing about also, try to not be such a dick to the person asking for help he obviously doesnt know what a capacitor does so dont flame him for having false info.

i currently have a l7 15" in a 4.5 net box on a brz 1200d at 2 ohms ( about 900 rms). i was wondering if i got a level 4 12 in a good ported box would it be louder? the l7 is currently sitting in my back seat and the lvl 4 would be in the trunk facing into the cabin sealed from the trunk on 1200 rms. i know it depends on a millions things but generally would it get louder then the l7? the only reason i ask is cus the l7 has a heck alot of more cone area and it intended to get loud but with no sq and i already know the sq with the lvl 4 would just blow it out of the water but what do you think would get louder?

The sub isn't what is drawing current. yeah but with that sub it give him about a 1000 watt limit. Amplifier, ohm load, efficiency, and true RMS wattage output are all factors in power draw. The subwoofer itself is not. yes i know all i was trying to say is that with just a single l7 hes not gonna be pulling 300 amps or anything close to that and it shouldnt be dropping down to 9 volts.

The sub isn't what is drawing current. yeah but with that sub it give him about a 1000 watt limit.

Lmao I'm watching this off my iPod

Jesus 9 volts with Just 1 l7? I bet it's the cap. With my l7 even if I were trying I don't think I could get it that low and ihave completely stock electrical

now your thinking... yep, fan boy.... are you calling me a fan boy? just because i want thinking about getting one of their subs? i was considering those but ive heard those dont get low. ill look more into those though. Who said they dont get low??! Look at my 2 audioque builds.... Yeah i'm guessing my 140db @ 10 hz isn't low enough Stupid people spreading ignorance. alright ill look more into hdc3s. i guess i shouldnt just believe everything everyone says

now your thinking... yep, fan boy.... are you calling me a fan boy? just because i want thinking about getting one of their subs? i was considering those but ive heard those dont get low. ill look more into those though. no sir... ME AND THE WIFE are the fan boys.... lol....didnt mean nothing, i was implying that we are the FB's bro.... good luck in your ventures... ohh i was so confused thanks bro.

now your thinking... yep, fan boy.... are you calling me a fan boy? just because i want thinking about getting one of their subs? i was considering those but ive heard those dont get low. ill look more into those though.

can i get the price for lvl 4 12 lvl 3 12 with lvl 4 coil and wide roll surround 76577

i know theres too many options i dont see how anyone could pick. im looking to spend around 300 at the most. preferably around 250 for either 1 or 2 12s. maybe 10s.

hmmm now im looking at a dc lvl 4. ugh why does there have to be so many options!

i was thinking of getting 2 obsidian 12s. how much louder do the SAs get? is it very noticeable? do you think i should get the OAs cus they take a little less power? ill only be putting 1200 rms if even that to them. or do you think i would be better off with a single SA 12?

currently i have a kicker l7 15 running off a brz1200 at 2 ohm about 900 rms ( asshole who sold me sub told me it was a d2).i was wondering how much louder would it be if i switched to some thing like sa-12 or 2 sa-10s? also what would you do a single sa-12 on 1200 rms or the 2 10s on 1200? also what are the differences between sundown, obsidian audio and skar? and what are the benefits to each?

are you planning to run off stock electrical?