Joe X

So get your subs and take tha maximum dimensions of the box you can fit and post the vehicle and amplifier models. One thing, if your vehicle is trunk type you should not buy 15"s or higher diameter subs since most likely will only be possible to mount them firing upwards.

I would repeat that test for your components and see exactly which set of frequencies you are really missing.

If you are willing to loose output sealing the box will definitely improve your issue just close the port with some MDF for a quick test.

One way or the other It will work, I would set it at 14.5 and 35Hz. I would in any case worry about calculating right the port parts and even choosing the port location, frequently sub up/ port back is implemented with a 2 common wall shared port, like this: Do some sketchup work on your design to make sure all the details are taken care of before cutting any wood.

No you are ok since you are using 1.5" wood thickness all around, here is the output of Torres you requested: Your spec seems ok, your sub should be reasonably away from the sides and the port internal end and the port external end should be unobstructed. You are not saying what vehicle and what component set are you using but I will say that you are not the only one here complaining about the exact same issue with big subs. A couple of 7"- 8" midbass drivers ( not mid range drivers or subs) usually fixes this properly crossed. Maybe a proper front stage installation and tuning using strong midbass comps can also do the job.

Ok so how sub and port are firing, The 16" port height makes no sense if it's 3 common walls.

Yeah, you need to check those dimensions, you will not need all of that but without actual dimensions no one can help.

So 24 deep 48 tall 60 wide ????

What vehicle?

State a budget.

If you wanted to learn the Torres calculator I can also answer your questions.

Ok here is a siggestion based on Memphis spec, use Torres calculator to make your own spec or build as follows: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35.031 Hz Vb = 1.9 ft^3 External Height = 14 in External Width = 28.25 in External Depth = 15 in Port Width = 2 1/4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Top & Bottom = 28 1/4 x 15 Left & Right Sides = 13 1/2 x 12 1/2 Front & Back = 28 1/4 x 12 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 11 1/4 x 12 1/2 Extension = 12 x 12 1/2 Assembly guide (generic dimensions): Let me know any questions.

If you are aiming at output then yes make the port area per cube 14-15

What are the max dims you can fit, vehicle, and amp models?

It's ok, just if your port is centered the number of common walls would be 2 instead of 3.

That mini pic won't help.

So how about the signal you are feeding the amp with. or improper phasing of the subs. The other thing that I was looking at is the clearance in front of the port needs to be about 14" in your case.

If using the amp's subsonic filter and it's set too high this can happen, Also check other settings. If everything is fine maybe post pics of the box.

Ok so the information you are looking for is the length of the parts to make the shared port, here they are: Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts: 2 x Top to Bottom = 14 3/4 x 14 1/2 2 x Extension = 12 3/4 x 14 1/2 Take a look at this generic sketchup to see how to install them:

Your box need to be 12 cubic feet net To get the needed 12 cubic feet net you would need a 38" x 38" x 21.75" enclosure with 4 aero ports 6" diameter 22" long. and would need to be taller for a slot port type.

4 HCCA 15" need about 12.1 cubic feet of net volume going by Orion specs.

As before...If it is an aero port give the diameter, if it is a slot port give the height and width..

How about a nice sealed enclosure!

Got it, I think your design looks just fine now then.

Your number of common walls should stay at 3.