Joe X

That's some drastic system downsizing! Aero ports would need to be very long so going for a slot ported suggestion: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34.064 Hz Vb = 1.181 ft^3 External Height = 11 in External Width = 23.25 in External Depth = 18 in Port Width = 2 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 20 1/2 x 9 1/2 Back = 23 1/4 x 9 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 16 1/2 x 9 1/2 Side 2 = 17 1/4 x 9 1/2 Top & Bottom = 23 1/4 x 18 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 14 1/2 x 9 1/2 Extension = 14 3/4 x 9 1/2 Assembly guide (generic dimensions):

Have you ever metered that thing?

You can post the specifications of the box here to check if it is correctly calculated.

Let me show you all you can do inside this type of design: The center deflector is most important optimization as it avoids the lateral airstreams colliding head on (it has to be done correctly as shown), but this shows other optimizations and bracing that can be done, You can figure out the length of the port parts with any calculator and/or sketchup (measuring along the centerline of the ducts ). If your dimensions don't include the double baffle that's best, I placed the second layer on top of your original dimensions so the design above does not change, just place the second layer on the top if you want to do the bouble baffle, it's highly recommended.

The first design baffle is strongly braced with that center rectangle brace and likely won't need anything else but if you were to double baffle instead you would end up with something like this! http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/136743-box-for-g6/page__view__findpost__p__1927142 And yes the common chamber design is simple to build and widely used design.. with it you can test the port either side to see what you like best..with the center port you can't,..it has other disadvantages as already mentioned above.

Ok so here are the port dimensions: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35.094 Hz Vb = 3.285 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted External Height = 12 in External Width = 40.75 in External Depth = 20 in Port Width = 4 3/4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts: 2 x Front to Back = 16 1/8 x 10 1/2 2 x Extension = 3 13/16 x 10 1/2 A second baffle layer on the top should be added if possible, if you already have it le me know as some calculations may change. If you can do angled cuts, I will give you infos on the 45s and the center deflector that can improve performance of the box, a side port option is available in case you prefer it.

Is your box already built, if so, is it fully or partially assembled?

Yes I would do a box specifically to compete..or I guess you will lose..lol.. after all is a couple 12"s box, no big deal to exchange.

Yes you can do a fully internal slot port.

There are fully internal, external and mixed.....or you can go with a slot port if you don't like aeros

Check here also: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/125741-2-6in-aeros-or-1-10in-aero-port/page__st__20

Based on a 15" height and a 14 deg slant you could probably fit the sub (don't have the motor diameter), one other thing, you would need 13" to fit it facing up.

Well flanged aeros can sound cleaner than slot ports due to reduced turbulence, also you can change the box tuning easily with them which you may need to compete.

Well you have to consider options, for exaample a bit slanted box could be one, also note that the mounting depth is 11.575", you have 12 - 0.75 height to fit the sub.

what tune is this? with the box only being 20 it woont fit without an elbow, any idea how to get all 3 in there? what is the external lenghth for? Look at the Fb parameter it's about 35 Hz and check the external length specification, that means 5 3/4" of the port would be external.

Guys have succeded using 2.3 cubes per driver, plus a large port area, if you pay DD prices you want to get the most out of them.

Sub up is not usually recommended in trunk type of vehicles. you seem to have 12" height.

With aeros this can work: Fb = 35.133 Hz Vb = 3.627 ft^3 Number of Ports = 3 Pipe Port Diameter = 4 Pipe Port Length = 19 3/4 External Length = 5 3/4 This would make a nice daily setup only, the net volume is larger than you would usually find ina SPL box for those subs, your vehicle is large also so cabin gain would be limited.

DD 3512 drivers require 2.5 cubic feet and 40 square inches of port area per sub, if you don't have nearly the specified space better get other drivers if you do post your maximum dims.

The amp seems ok, what vehicle?

What vehicle are you installing this in?

Ok, one thing, use MDF screws specially for the baffle, Titebond wood glue also recommended. Have fun!

it's 33 inches.

It can be done as follows with the alternative assembly method: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 33 Hz Vb = 1.505 ft^3 External Height = 14.25 in External Width = 21 in External Depth = 18 in Port Width = 1 13/16 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 18 7/16 x 12 3/4 Front Internal = 16 15/16 x 12 3/4 Back = 21 x 12 3/4 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 16 1/2 x 12 3/4 Side 2 = 17 1/4 x 12 3/4 Top & Bottom = 21 x 18 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 14 11/16 x 12 3/4 Extension = 15 x 12 3/4 Same assembly guide as above:

The cutout diameter is 11" so it fits..tughtly, the outside diameter should be around 12.5" so it also fit.. you will have 1/4" clearance each side..very little, in fact I had to go for the all across Width/height baffle for this reason. Damn, haha so the rubber will fit as well on the box? Also, how would you suggest cutting the port for the box? Being that I have to cut through the double baffle and make a perfect retangle box.. Does the port HAVE to be on the double baffle? Rather not cut my port. I use the following assembly style most of the times: But on 13" is not possible, you would almost cut the baffle in two pieces if you tried.