Joe X

Firing subs directly to a port is something you don't want to do most of the times.

Not sure the chambers are of different sizes but even if they were with sealed there is no much difference in performance for normal to larger than normal internal volumes, say 1 cubic feet and 1.2 cubic feet will sound largely the same. If those subs are the lanzar st max12s those may play better in ported box rather than sealed. To answer your question it's better to cut a circle in the dividers rather than take them out to preserve the box strength.

I am covering a lot in one post so bear with me pls: 1) If the gately enclosure you have is the one with 58 square inches of port area, that's ok 2) As for the gains bear in mind that you also have know the clipping level of your head unit which also needs to be measured, not only the amps. 3) You don't mention the big 3, you need that upgrade as well. If your amp is not grounded to battery directly (best) it's a critical upgrade you need to complete. 4) For the current draw of that amp your electrical system should be about 250A alternator and 40Ah of total battery capacity, and that's only for music, Although these are somewhat generic calculations, it gives you an idea of how low your electrical system is right now. 5) if you are wired to 1 ohm means that your subs are D1 and you wired them coils in series and subs in parallel or coils in parallel and subs in series, D2 subs cannot be wired to 1 ohm. Wire should be AWG8. 6) power wiring is ok at 1/0 as long as it is OFC. The quality of your connections is as important as the quality of the wire so recheck everything. 7) you should get a clamp and a multimeter to see how much acuial power the amp is demanding, it's a great way to know what is to blame for you not getting the full performance from your system. Hopefully that's enough information for you to make a full check. Also although manufacturer recommended box specs will usually do fine in some cases custom specs can provide increased performance, I don't have that sub in my database so I will seek to enter it when I have the time.

You don't say what alternator you have, you setup your gains incorrectly, couldn't get the AH of that battery, you don't say what gately box is the one you have...... My impression is that you have to let someone setup your system professionally before reaching any conclusions. I think that system may have some more in it than what you are currently getting.

That amp is half bridge so it can run on lower voltage say 11V or so without issues, your alternator should be 180-200A for better results, also to note that the amp needs to be placed where there is good ventilation but not on the box if possible. Port area for the box should be about 55 square inches PER driver so about 110 for two drivers.

If the alternator upgrade will not cause any issues to your vehicle I would definitely go for that bearing in mind that you should play your system with the car on for the most part, you really don't have enough capacity to play on batteries for now.

I don't know the exact current draw when you are playing your system hard but those two amps together are capable of more than 1000 amps of current draw on music, let alone sinewave and you can only source at most 320 +120 = 440A, you should add both alternator and battery power to match your needs. Good thing your voltage doesn't drop below 12.5 or you would be having issues with the full bridge amps.

Your mid woofers need to be run like 80Hz to 4400Hz and your tweeters would need to be run 4400Hz and up BUT your amplifier can only provide the 80Hz hipass filter but not the 4400Hz crossover, same for the tweeters, they cannot get a full range signal, need to be hi passed at 4400Hz besides, the head unit can only provide like 22 watts per channel at most. There are on ebay these "1pcs 2 Way Crossover Filter 2 Unit Audio Frequency Divider 4-8 ohm 150W 3500HZ" which are $10 a piece that you could use, You could redirect the output of the mid woofers in that crossover to the high level input of the rear channels so that you only need to buy two of these, that would be the cheapest possible way to do it more or less half properly.

One way would be to use passive crossovers to run mid woofers and tweeters say in the front channels, PRV have thier own passive crossovers: https://prvaudio.com/products/2df4400/ And running the other two mid woofers on the rear channels using the the same passive crossovers even if there are no twitters to install. (this assumes you don't have a signal processor sourcing the amp). If you have a signal processor you wouldn't need any passive crossovers on the rear channels.

If you don't have a superb electrical system better not run a full bridge amplifier, stay with half bridge amplifiers. Success with those subs depends a lot on the size of the box, those subs will work best on 4-6 cubic feet net per driver.

A decent branded alternator of that capacity should be at least $400, I would recommend you to get a deal on a good brand alternator, say $350 and pay that and have a good life, I mean you already got burned once so I don't need to explain it to you, avoid getting burned for a second time. Also you don't describe your application maybe you can do with a less amperage rating higher quality alternator, sure it will get you better results than a crap 400A one.

Really controlling port area is not necessarily the preferred method to reduce a peaky response, reason being at high volume you may get port noise and at lower volume does nothing to help the peaky response, Here is the U12 v1 in orange without damping and in yellow with heavy damping: Box is 2 cubic feet net per driver @ 35Hz. As you can see you get a sharp drop in the peak and a somewhat softer rolloff, additionally it doesn't change (up) your tuning as cutting volume would do. If you are not listening to lower frequencies enough then just tune lower as needed..

Let us know how it went or if you have any questions later on.

The sundown U12s play rather peaky, you can either build a box with a net volume lower than recommended or use damping material inside the box like polyfill or dacron, sometimes an inefficient port can help with a peaky output (long port or lower port area) but if you didn't like the results the box is already made. the most effective solution is build a large sealed box, secondly use proper subs, or the methods mentioned above.

Reading a bit your first post very much looks like your alternator is underperforming or is plain insufficient, fixing that would be first in my list. no amount of extra batteries will help, also verifying all your power and signal wiring is a must, the location where you install the amp should transmit a lot of vibration to it. It's very important that you ask for an explanation on the mode of failure of the amp, Ideal installation location is a ventilated amp rack (isolated from the sub box) and keep your voltage at the amp terminals at at least 12V under any conditions. gains should be set properly. Installation issues frequently end up equipment damage.

Do you know that amplifier has a remote turn on signal?

Provided that you paid a lot of attention on correctly entering all your data and make sure the units correspond to what is specified by the manufacturer you do get some insight of what actually want to build and what don't additionally: 1 your subsonic can both prevent sub damage and hurt your output if not set exactly right WinISD lets you create filters and see the effect on excursion. 2 after building and sealing the wall + deadening your resonant frequency has gone up. 3 with those not to common wall builds on sedans suspension sometimes has been affected, may be a good ideal to get lighter wood or other measures you might think of. 4 at this point talking to competitors would be most beneficial for you.

A couple of things: 1) to confirm your suspicions on how the subs will react use modeling software to get insight on, A ) if Xmax is passed either below or above tuning on intended power and box specs B ) what's the proper port area. WinISD will suffice for that. Once you confirm your box specs then....... 2) Get yourself a SPL meter before starting your tests, there are many decently priced like the SSA, those are like $300 or so for the basic models I believe. Wish I had more time these days like you to play with car audio gear. have fun.

You can easily do 6 subs, port across the center, > 160 square inches 3 subs above 3 below, still at 2.25 net and 26 square inches of port per driver, easier to power, two subs or 3 per amp. Not that I don't get what you are getting at giving 2.7 is just that some DD audio 612s are some of the ones born to work like that.

That is not normal. Your car is possessed most likely.

Ok then, check this company, see if it has something for your vehicle: https://www.qlogicenclosures.com/pages/q-forms

If you go the route of finding components compatible with your vehicle (or at least know the sizes) check out this: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-CdX0cfruDY6/ymm/2004-Honda-Pilot-Speakers-Stereos.html That's what I'd do if lacking time to work.

Average power is V rms x I rms you cannot use R as the tweeter is not a resistor. V rms and I rms are obtained by direct measurement bearing in mind your multimeter is a "true RMS" one otherwise the readings will be invalid. Also VERY important that you don't mention is that your high pass filter must be set high enough to meet it's operating frequency range, if you play frequencies lower than what the tweeter is meant to play it will get destroyed, so to be safe you need to set amp gain AND high pass filter BOTH, furthermore, the highpass filter need to be set before measurements ar4e taken and gains are set.

Skar gives in their website box suggestions are those no good for you? Explain a little more your situation.

Yes, you shouldn't get any port noise as you are running the same port area per driver as before, Bottoming out could be more of a real possibility if you were to up power with new amps and not bring down internal volume, (entry level subs generally are not expected to have overly stiff suspensions). As far as ports go the longer port is less efficient than the short one, for a given port area and length two ports are less efficient than a single one, the port with flares is way more efficient than the one without them likely up to 3dB. If you can't find proper port area round ports octo is a possibility, you just build many of them to rapidly swap them. BTW wall and deadening change your resonant frequency, likely will higher.