Joe X

Note that he is placing the box on the backseat.

Ok I updated the design post with new specs so that no extension is necessary, and there is a customized sketchup this time.

I have been succesful adding 1/2 inch here and there, in your case 1/2 inch taller could be tried. But if truly are your max dims then Ok, build it kile that, will sound better than the one you have there, also try it everything fiting frontwards. Sometimes is better.

If you don't have space for a bigger box then build that, but from the picture I think you could go wider I think.

I will update the generic sketchup for a customized one by tonight, the spec above does not change anyhow.

Yes I will update the sketchup with the mods later by tonight, anyhow none of the specs above changes a bit.

Your tuning would go to 36.4 Hz without it.

No, bear in mind that the pic is of generic dimensions, if you reaaly need a customized sketchup let me know.

Sub forward port back?? most likely that won't help, Here is a suggestion port/ sub firing frontwards: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 33.015 Hz Vb = 8 ft^3 External Height = 31 in External Width = 35 in External Depth = 20.5 in Port Width = 4 1/4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 30 x 29 1/2 Front Internal = 28 1/2 x 29 1/2 Back = 35 x 29 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 19 x 29 1/2 Side 2 = 19 3/4 x 29 1/2 Top & Bottom = 35 x 20 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 14 3/4 x 29 1/2 Extension = 7 x 29 1/2 Assembly guide on actual dimensions, port optimizations and suggested bracing: You should have at least 4 inches of free airspace in front of the port. Also 2.6KW calls for a solid electrical, that alone can reduce your output so look into that as well. Let me know any questions/comments.

And I agree but you must have superb power and system tuning... also you are still exposed to a slight mishap. A couple of Fi SSD 10" not substantially more expensive would fit you amp better and probably sound nicer...

So ok here is a new box, port back subs up, if you happen to find specs on this subs let me know, could let me optimize the design: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35.041 Hz Vb = 8.086 ft^3 External Height = 18.75 in External Width = 36 in External Depth = 34 in Port Width = 4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 36 x 34 Left & Right Sides = 32 1/2 x 16 1/2 Front & Back = 36 x 16 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 25 x 34 1/2 Top to bottom bracing is recommended, a couple of metallic dowel rods will do. An alternative can be using aero ports, could make the box slightly smaller.

It will gain weight not only due to the thickness of the material but because the box needs to be bigger, I can add the bracing easily, port optimizations are put in place to reduce turbulent flow, check how a port turn can be optimized:

Not enough to justify the increase in weight, I will add some extra bracing if you are concerned. Also some port optimizations.

1" MDF is not necessary for these subs, but if it need to be I would have to redesign to a sligtly bigger box so that the spec stays the same.

That amp is too much power for those subs better add subs or use higher power subs, anyways here is a suggestion aimed at higher power use (but not 2200W RMS), port/subs front firing or back firing can be tried: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34.005 Hz Vb = 2.46 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted External Height = 15 in External Width = 30 in External Depth = 17 in Port Width = 2 3/4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 26 1/2 x 13 1/2 Front Internal = 25 x 13 1/2 Back = 30 x 13 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 15 1/2 x 13 1/2 Side 2 = 16 1/4 x 13 1/2 Top & Bottom = 30 x 17 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 12 3/4 x 13 1/2 Extension = 11 3/4 x 13 1/2 Assembly guide (generic dimensions): Set your subsonic filter to 25Hz to help protect the subs. Let me know any questions.

Port back sub back can work, high port area (like >= 16 sq in per cube), tune 33-35, extremely solid build is necessary for this sub.

Ok here is a suggestion on your specs, mfr suggested net volume per sub: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 32.024 Hz Vb = 6 ft^3 External Height = 19 in External Width = 41 in External Depth = 22 in Port Width = 5 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 41 x 22 Left & Right Sides = 20 1/2 x 16 3/4 Front & Back = 41 x 16 3/4 T Port Internal Assembly Parts: 2 x Front to Back = 18 x 16 3/4 2 x Extension = 3 1/2 x 16 3/4 Assembly guide (generic dimensions): Let me know any questions.

Port back sub up on a trunk vehicle is a bad idea. Just doing a wider port neither is going to make a meaningful difference.

really interesting, thanks for the info, still not sure about bending round ports though... Just get an elbow, straight or bent, both end should have unobstructed airspace of at least one diameter in front of them, also must not get too near any walls of the box.

NO, anyways, if you are going to be worried about this you can go with a dual chamber design, either shared port or separate ports, those designs though take up more internal airspace and need more port parts.

Sure, take a look: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35.081 Hz Vb = 1.24 ft^3 External Height = 12 in External Width = 24.5 in External Depth = 14 in Port Width = 1 3/4 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 22 x 10 1/2 Back = 24 1/2 x 10 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 12 1/2 x 10 1/2 Side 2 = 13 1/4 x 10 1/2 Top & Bottom = 24 1/2 x 14 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 11 5/8 x 10 1/2 Extension = 13 9/16 x 10 1/2 I chose dims that fit most of the times, best for trunk/hatchback vehicles. Again this is based in Sundown spec Much better than the sealed.

Big vehicle lower tuning probably will not get that loud if loud is what you care for. Pionner recommends up to 1.6 cubic feet per sub, it will be safe for the subs up to rated power for sure, a small gain for a bigger box if that makes sense to you. It's more like you will benefit from sourcing more power.

Ok Enclosure Specifications: Vb = 0.5 ft^3 External Height = 11 in External Width = 11 in External Depth = 13 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front & Back = 11 x 11 Left & Right Sides = 11 1/2 x 9 1/2 Top & Bottom = 11 x 11 1/2 This is Sundown's recommendation, I don't like it, neither the idea of sealed, as mentioned you should go for a ported enclosure.

It's a perfectly legitimate way to run a port but you need to make sure that the box is bolted. The entire length should be used to calculate the port but the port displacement is only for the part that's inside.

So you want to run the aeros external from the box to the rear deck level?