Joe X

Specs are in the manual, the biggest one is 3.5 cubic feet net: www.razorgtp.com/PDFS/solo-baric.pdf Get the maximun external dims of the box you can fit and I can provide a design suggestion.

To tune check this out: http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 The the subs displacement and port displacement needs to be taken into account to have a valid net internal volume they ask for.

You mean to get louder making a 2 ohm load? It won't get louder because the extra power you would be getting from the amp would turn into heat in the resistor not into sound. Besides who knows what resistor would handle that much power.

Ported give much better low end bass than sealed, are easy to build and can sound clean, bandpass is not clean bass, are good for efficiency only.

If using 4" aeros consider this, port ends up: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 33,2 Hz Vb = 7,001 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted External Height = 24 in External Width = 48 in External Depth = 15 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 48 x 24 Left & Right Sides = 12 3/4 x 22 1/2 Top & Bottom = 48 x 12 3/4 Port Quantity and Dimensions: Number of Ports = 5 Aero Port Diameter = 4 Aero Port Length = 19 A double layer baffle is used which helps, additional bracing may be required.

I don't think a single 600W sub will be enough for a SUV that's the main porblem, you should be building a box for two at least. I think that best results are achieved with ports and subs in the same surface but yes some people claim a SPL boost with up-back configuration.. all vehicles are different so you need to experiment yourself.. If you want to try the up-back configuration you need to get familiar with the Torres since the software I use don't support that.

It's best having the port in the same surface as the subs, you can try aiming the firing up, back and front to see how do you like it better. In separate chamber trunks usually front firing is best, also you should let the port have some breathing room in front of it, best two times it's width.

I don't think you need any bracing on a single 600W sub, at least the way it installs in that box, if you add asecond baffle layer behind the external one arguably you would have less flex, tuning would go upwards a bit.

Wish you luck, check some infos on how to build and keep air tight. @jeremyg: damn fast with Sketchup!!

I would do the double baffle for sure, that's the surface that flexes the most, rods on that power maybe is too much on the safe side.. whatever you do take the displacements into account.

I have seen that problem on the HDC3 but this sub will work very well on 4cuft@33Hz, take a look:

This could work: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 33,031 Hz Vb = 4,081 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted External Height = 17 in External Width = 34 in External Depth = 20 in Port Width = 4 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front & Back = 34 x 17 Left & Right Sides = 18 1/2 x 15 1/2 Top & Bottom = 34 x 18 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 14 1/2 x 15 1/2 Extension = 9 x 15 1/2

You could easily add a MDF layer on the baffle face. I agree that extensive bracing may not be necessary if you are running low power.

If you have fixed external dims you can't decide Vb, for a 35Hz tuning this could work: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35,01 Hz Vb = 4,34 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted External Height = 15 in External Width = 33 in External Depth = 25 in Port Width = 5 1/4 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front & Back = 33 x 15 Left & Right Sides = 23 1/2 x 13 1/2 Top & Bottom = 33 x 23 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 18 1/4 x 13 1/2 Extension = 1 5/16 x 13 1/2

According to my calculations that box specs as follows: Vb = 1.60710989 cu.ft Fb = 34.7635301 Hz Here are the details: Individual driver displacement = 0.17 cu.ft Wood thickness = 0.75 in Port Diameter = 4 in Port area = 12.566368 sq.in Port lenght = 14.5 in Port displacement = 194.144102 cu.in Total driver displacement = 587.52 cu.in External volume = 2.84505208 cu.ft Gross internal volume = 2.05946181 cu.ft The port considered is non flared type (flush mounted PVC Pipe). One other thing to consider is the clearance of the internal end of the port which is below the recommended 1 diameter minimun.

Based on a 0.14 cubic feet driver displacement and 2 drivers you can build on these dimensions: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 32,0 Hz Vb = 4,257 ft^3 External Height = 15 in External Width = 33 in External Depth = 25 in Port Width = 4 3/4 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front & Back = 33 x 15 Left & Right Sides = 23 1/2 x 13 1/2 Top & Bottom = 33 x 23 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 18 3/4 x 13 1/2 Extension = 5 1/2 x 13 1/2 I used a slightly wider port get passed the corner of the box since it was rather near to the back wall.

Sorry I see no screenshot or anything, a big port may take up too much of your effective internal volume, if you are confident of what you are doing good for you if not, post some external dims and I could give some suggestions.

Can you get a screenshot of the Torres showing the parameters, it's hard to understand why you say that you need a larger port area to fit the box, in any case your port does not need to go all across if that's your problem, if you can't upload the screenshot just give the external dims you intend to use.

Not tuned to 47Hz but tuned in a way that the response of the box peaks at 47Hz.

So check the sub upward option so that the port gets properly calculated and I would add a cross brace at least in the center of the baffle face.

Double thickness on the baffle face and some bracing are in order to say the least. Also if the port is in the same face as the subs, seems a tight fit. Probably some sketchup work on it will help you put things in proper light.

SPL boxes peak output are frequently in the 40s region, enclosures are usually tighter the subwoofers used are usually high Fs. Just to give you an idea.

Depends on the music you hear. You should seek an in car F3 that matches the lowest material you plan to listen which can be about 25Hz, the tuning of the box will depend on the sub you use, it's better to target F3.

Make sure the power you are giving is stable 12V at all times (both on the red and yellow lines), disconnect anything you have connected to the aux input, check that the USB port is clean, do a system reset or 30 sec full power down.

Nate, this is true, just a tad out of reach. I say run 2 SA-15's in that box on your current amp it should be fine. You can get them for a really good price. Right, they are $24 overbudget each but worth every penny for a 1KW rated SQ Sub. Will overtake the SAs in SQ.