Joe X

If what you want is some low end AND not to have a bass less system your setup will probably do.. or maybe you will be back as it often happens. I always suggest people to get a large enough system for the vehicle in question mostly to help avoid them go multiple upgrade cycles which are more costly in the long run.

A single 12" sub is too small of a setup for an SUV, to improve performance, the box should fire back and be close to the rear gate. To me a couple of 15s in a subs up /port back configuration should be minimum in such vehicles to get decently loud.

The amplifier you have is class AB with efficiency of about 55%, if you want to deliver 1400W with that amp you are going to need to source: 1400W/0.55 =2545W That means you will need full electrical upgrades and the amp is going to get hot as hell if pushed to the limit. It was in the 90s that class AB amps were used on subs.

So here is a suggestion, power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 2 1/4", figure is just an assembly guide: NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside. NOTE: box ideally suited for sedan / hatchback

Only if your scope connected to the amp POWER input terminals show sudden voltage drops that go below 12.5 volts, if you don't have such drops you don't have to do nothing. Best of luck and if you have any questions let us know.

One possibility is that your subs are still on the break in period and need a couple of weeks for the suspensions to loose, yet you can use the scope to see how stable is your input power at the amp terminals, even If the voltage drops for less than a second to less than 12.5V you can be having issues, those full bridge amps are a problem anytime your electrical is not perfect, even if your ground is not exactly great or any connections are not so tight problems can result even if your electrical components are good, if you did not do the big 3 you should do that immediately.

Great infos on your system and I get you are fighting rattling but still don't know what is your vehicle model and pics would be great.

You will not experience loss of sound quality on the sub by running at 2 ohm, THD+N is rated the same at 4 and 2 ohms and you will be driving the sub closer to what it expects. Honestly only cheap amps with deficient power regulation could perform worse when being used on a lower impedance load, Alpines is not the case, it could run hotter in any case if pushed hard, you prevent that with proper installation with great ventilation and maybe a fan nearby just to make sure if it became necessary.

That amp is a single channel, the extra terminals are provided for ease of use. Check out my previous reply.

Actually no, if you wire coils in series you get 4 ohm, one sub per amp and you will be sourcing 1000W to each sub nominally (look at the table I left you above) but since rockford fosgate are under rated I am pretty sure you will be getting like 1200W to each sub.

Parameters need to be selected in their page, you know you have the correct parameters if Sd = 1210 square centimeters.

Those amps will give exactly the same power connected to 2 ohm as they give connected to 1 ohm, you need to do nothing, here is what the amp specs say: Same 1500W at 1 ohm or 2 ohm. Only if you connected to 4 ohm you would get less power.

The power 1500bdcp is a constant power amplifier, wire each sub to one ohm (coils in parallel) and then connect one sub to each amp to get 1500W to each subwoofer and you are done.

Check that modeling: Fi 4.11 18 Sundown Zv618: Both based on a 7 cubic feet net @32Hz enclosure. The Fi has a 4 dB advantage over the Zv6 at their rated power and justifiably so since the Fi is a 4500W driver vs 2500W. Check out your fi parameters, I am sure you picked the 12" driver parameters instead of the 18". It is very easy to make a mistake with modeling software, so easy many people don't rely on modeling.

I don't know that worst loses happen in glass windows, rather it occurs in large thin metallic parts like the roof of large vehicles or where ever you se flex happening, Any place you see flex happening you need to apply deadening. Anyways when you have a system level issue you need to post what is your full system components, your electrical (including wiring) and what is your vehicle, your box specs and a lot of pictures. Lastly a wall is not a box firing forward subs and ports, what a wall does is reducing the cabin size, increasing output significantly, a box specially in the middle of a cabin firing forward will probably do worse than a properly placed subs up / port back box.

Each of the two lines ideally should have a 125A fuse if the max current draw is 250A.

Two 12s on your space is possible but would need to look for another form factor, for simplicity here is your request 2x10 T1 subs: Assuming you have the trunk version of that vehicle aim subs and port back, (figure is just an assembly guide). For an amp I would suggest you the pretty decent quality D4S JP23 amplifier, it is half bridge, does rated and has good THD figures for a class D amplifier it's $299. You would wire coils in series and subs in parallel for a final load of 2 ohm. Also you may need alternator and battery upgrades for any > 1K system.

Very fer people have that device as is pretty expensive, the manual should tell you how to go about it but if not, you can always have it looked at by a pro installer.

You can do 12s if you want and be much louder for the same power, as for the Rockford fosgate brand they are good but they are on the expensive side you can go for these instead in the 12 size: https://stereointegrity.com/product/sql-series/ Anyways if you don't care for any of the above a 2x10s box is very doable on your max dimensions Pick an amp that matches or exceeds the subs power handling. just avoid full bridge amplifiers unless you plan for electrical upgrades.

Best thing you can do is transfer youir CD to USB in a PC or: Check out this thread:

Just going by the subs manual for each subs you need 121 liters and 41,2 square inches of port area tuned to 30Hz So the box need to be 242 liters net and 82.4 square inches of port area at the same tuning. So how you get 82.4 square inches with 6" round ports, one 6" round port is 28.2 square inches and 3 are 84.2 almost exactly what is needed so: 3 6" round ports is what is needed according to manufacturer specs based in a 242 liters box and rated power. Since you are overpowering you probably need more port area but at least you do need 3.

You need to open the box (say remove the sub) and connect the DD-1 to the amp output terminals, no other way. You can instead get a box without an integrated amp and then buy a mini amp such as this: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-43424-Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-PBR300X2.html

It comes down to the speakers you have purchased If you can list the models of your head unit and the speakers, tweeters, subs that you have purchased it will be easier for me to answer specifically.

The 3 way mode lets you have a fully active front stage, no rear fill and a sub channel and for that you need a 4 channel amp and a sub amp. Likely you use that mode for a sound quality application. Or you can choose two front channels, two rear channels and a sub channel to have the functions you like, you also need 4 channel amp and a sub amp. In the rare case you wanted a fully active front stage and a fully active rear fill you would need a couple of active 2 channel crossovers OR a multichannel DSP and two 4 channel amplifiers and a sub amp, you can use all the functions of your head unit and stay fully active BUT that is a lot of equipment to install. I don't know anyone running their system this way but it's possible.

Who knows but the Taramp Smart Bass 8k is a constant power amp with flexible load options which the others don't have. As you know all those full bridge amplifiers like extremely solid electrical that provides 12.5-15V at all times, if you don't intend to have that better choose a half bridge alternative.