stroupe79

i would look for a bigger alt than 200amp if you can find one or afford bigger...especially if your planning on running like 4-5k watts or more...

i have 60mil AudioTechnix...and to be honest...its alright...when I go to upgrade my mids I will probably go with Second Skin over top of the AudioTechnix I have on now if that tells you anything Second Skin is worth the price...otherwise you can get 35ft of the 80mil for the same price as the Alpha Damp 20ft cost...but putting on the better product first would be my suggestion Second Skin Alpha Damp is my vote

first off i have owned the 4080 and 500m....both are old school beasts for sure...mad props there... if you can look into running 0g back to distro...then 4g out to amps...if you need to get some 4g to 8g adapters to get the wire to fit in the 8g plugs on the amps...that way your getting as much power to the amps as possible do the big3 too..with 0g or at least 2g

the skar 85.4 is 85w x 4 channels...so 340w total...thats plenty to match with your current sub stage the skar components do look good and matching brands is always helps with looks

pics soon battery soon big3 soon 4channel and components soon

at/or a bit above the price point of the DD508...you have better options like N8 mentioned SA-8 being the prime example $170...along with Skar VVX-8...as a bit closer to the DD508 in price $135 i didnt see any price listed for the DD2508...but the 10s are $320 so I would guess its about $300-310ish for the DD2508 if you were looking at the DD508 based on price

hey guys I was a Bill Collector for Defaulted Student Loans a few years back...I can give you some great advice on Student Loans...first and foremost....never default on them...your charged a 25% penalty for defaulting..and interest is applied toward the penalty too... First is the Rehabilitation Program...gets your loan out of default and back into a good standing loan...usually requires making payments of 1% of balance or $50 a month whichever is higher...payments for 10-12 months to complete the process to get it out of default http://www.tgslc.org/borrowers/default/repay.cfm Second is William D. Ford Consolidation Program....this program will consolidate all Student Loans into 1 monthly payment for a 30year term...this also usually requires payments of 1% of balance as monthly payment for the term of the loan...this is a great option for people with massive amounts of loans or loans with 3-4 lenders...get them all together and start paying them down... http://www2.ed.gov/programs/wdffdl/eligibility.html I will tell you all...signing a petition will do nothing...these are Federally Backed Loans...they can never be dismissed...you will always owe the money until the day you die...(literally had to have spouses send in death certificates to stop collections on them) so your better off just paying on them....they can keep your tax returns and garnish upto 25% of your pre-tax wages to pay toward these loans...trust and believe they will do it too...

distribution blocks are used to "distribute" the power to your amps...usually when your running 2 amps...say a 4channel and a 2channel/mono amps it is also fused to help protect the amps...for example power from front is fused up front...travels to rear distro block where it is fused (smaller than front) before the power goes out to the amps

how was it a TKO when the horn sounded the end of the round?...did he not come out for the second round?

its so you dont have to try to jam big bulks of wire into the single positive and negative terminals when wiring up multiple subs...anyone that ran 4+ subs before they started putting the extra speaker terminals on amps knows how much of a bitch it was to get all that wire into 1 pos/neg terminal plus now it is more common to run large wire for subs..like 8/10gauge...some even run 4gauge for really high power handling subs

clipping will fuck up a wet dream

sealing it off is the best option..it keeps the sound going into the cabin...and will lessen the rattle from your trunk...the bit of blockage from the framing wont really cause much of a problem..nothing to worry about anyways...keep your amp in the trunk..and use cardboard to make templates for the sections you need to seal off...its the easiest method...sometimes it will sound a bit different but thats usually when you go from backfiring toward taillights to turining it around to face forward (which your setup already is) so you probably wont notice it sounding different except hopefully louder simply because the space the sound will affect will be smaller due to subtracting the trunk space sound would be getting to... i would seal off any and every trunk build I have...I did it to my build in my 94 Cavalier..and had no rattle from the ass end...I did 148.4 on the dash in dbDrag in 98 with that setup...i will never run a trunk build thats not sealed forward

he saved up his grocery store bagger money..dropped the whole year's worth on that shit!

I knew there was a reason I loved the kenwoods i ran a couple years ago!

you say your "I'm not too worried about SQL but i am looking for more SQL....which is it?

if they recommend 4cubes and your asking about putting it in 10cubes sealed...wtf is wrong with building a 4cube box thats ported..that cant possibly take up the same area as a 10cube sealed box...unless your doing something stupid

my last box i used titebond II for all joints...and then I used caulk on all inside corners where 2 pieces met...to make sure it was air tight in case the titebond II wasnt put on thick enough or something...it seems to me that this is holding up just great so far...some people will fiberglass resin the inside of the box for strength and to seal it up better

hertz are good...i dont know about the kenwood amps your talking about...but i wouldnt pay a local shop to put your stuff in..especially if you have had shops install setups that you considered to sound crappy... building a box is not as tough as it looks/sounds....and like Cableguy said get your electrical setup in order to handle the power your trying to run and go from there...honestly for the price of JL even used you could get brand new sub/s and amp that I am sure you wouldnt be disappointed with..$4-500 for a used sub

what kind of car its in matters...also tuning low helps get the air pressure to creat hairtricks...its going to be tough to do another question...why so big of a box 8cubes for a single 18 on 2kw?...just wondering..not trying to be an asshole

the link i posted above was for the b-stock...

i didnt have any pics...and when i quit that job i left it there...i know a buddy of mine swooped it up and kept it on his desk..lol

i did a couple when i was in and just after graduating high school...Ford Galaxie with Hydraulics...made from pen springs and other bits...I also did a F150 extended cab with some big wheels off of a larger scale kit...tucked them and layed it on frame...lol...I kept it on my desk at work when I was at a Collections company...lots of coworkers would compliment me on it..lol it was cool to try to make things look like customized cars/trucks when there isnt much to work with...i can imagine in a contest for them people are probably making widebody kits and all kinds of stuff from scratch with bondo/fiberglass...good luck and make sure to post pics

ok...here is some numbers for you to work with.. 18h x 34w x 26d external measurements 16.5h x 4w x 28d port measurements (will have a bend in the port) gives you tuning of 32hz 4.96 cubic feet after all displacements for subs/port/bracing 13.31 inches of port per foot 66 cubic inches of port area .6 sub displacement 1 extra baffle .25 bracing .75 thickness of box material (mdf) download torres calculator on here and if you input those numbers you should get your cut sheet now that is just a rough box...there are people who can design you way better..but this is just so you get an idea of what you need or might want.. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/38791-torres-box-tuning-calculator/

i used audiotechnix deadener...i bought some "b"stock..which was just as good as the standard...it had a few wrinkles in it..thats all...but you can get it for about $40 for 25sq.ft of the b-stock if they have any...it covered all 4 of my doors and hatch...thats not completely covered...just big sections then a few smaller areas and as much of it as I could get my hands into...lots of nooks and crannies... http://audiotechnix.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=68&vmcchk=1&Itemid=68

i understand that..its similar to the Ford Edge which I have driven many times...the trunk is a nice size..but people will want the measurements to help you...width and depth for sure...some people dont care if the box is taller than the backseats or not..but things like that determine how much space your box will take up and how to tune it also... if you listen to mostly rap i would suggest tuning in the mid to low 30s... here are specs for your subs http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=120431