c.director

haha yea who cares. dont park infront of a building and nobody will every know I think the people driving towards him would know.

I agree with you there. Can you put it to plastic? doing the back of the mirrors and handles/any other faded plastic would help pull it together.. I don't think i've seen this done before either. Eventually get a bull bar with it too, that would help.

Ahh, I would like color matched a lot better, the truck came with all the chrome on it. Thanks for that, Ive never talked to the shops around here that can spray it, I have one in mind that people tend to like, that seems to have good customer service.

Yes, Its a quality bedliner. Is that bedliner on the sides? post a pic up. Mines actually not bad on the rust, any major metal underneath has some sort of paint on it. Also plan on de-badging it and getting those ridiculous black trim pieces off down there. EDIT: and also, what if I did the backside of the mirrors in it too, maybe the handles?

Should I line-X the painted grey areas? Keep in mind I'm getting a camping rig for the back and a hitch bike rack for bikes, so its going to be kind of an off road looking rig. The picture looks good there but overall I don't like all the colors going on, eventually well get a full paint job done.

It can be done. Same steps apply as with most any headliner fabric.

That's low, a 12 volt battery should never fall below 12 really. Ive had a Optimas rest between 12.5-13.5.

Dude, the fuse is to protect the wire.. The amp has its on fuses and if doesn't, it is recommended that one is put right before, proper sizing. But other wise a 250 amp fuse in 0 gauge WILL blow if there is a short and will keep your power wire from melting and catching fire to your car, regardless how big your alternator or amplifier are, like its supposed to do.

lol like in my thread.. The fuse is chosen according to the size of the wire, not the amp. Edit: ninja'd

1. The fuse is based on the wire size, it will keep the 0 gauge from burning up if there is a short . And also for upgrades later on. Thanks, and yes I need some more power haha Thanks everyone who has commented.

Sorry for the crap Vid, but I figured I would post this up. 2 Sa-12's on a SAX.1200 and JL audio 6 1/2's. Alpine deck with Ipod control and the Ipod sits in the glove box. The end is the best. The 2nd main power line goes to the bed for a camper/toolbox.

Its alpine, I think the sub level should be all the way up, it's like SQmonte was saying. You can plug the RCA cable straight into the DD1 to find HU distortion.

You shouldn't be blowing speakers on 40-50 watts, get something decent and make sure your not clipping/distorting.

I love the box in my avatar (for 2 sa12's), with a router aeroports out of pvc are no big deal.. Seems a lot easier to get right than a slot port, easier to make sure its sealed, etc.

I have a 1hp, 5 gal air compressor that is good for most things, but struggles with my die grinder.. on the other hand I have a 5hp 20 gal that can run it all day.. So at least get something over 1 hp, 5 gal. edit: also on router bits Ive used a cheap Ryobi router set that had most things I needed and there is not a huge difference in those and the bits I pay $20 a pop for.

Just strip a little extra and double it up inside the terminal.

It's a stock WeThePeople frame, nothing special at the moment, I think a company called Salt makes there stuff.. My last bike was full custom, but I just started to upgrade this one.

Thanks man, I was hoping you would see it.. If i'm ever out in California (unlikely lol) I will be hitting you up for a demo! Same here, I rode for a couple years and then stopped for a year or so, i'm so glad I picked it back up. I had forgotten how fun it was.

Anybody here BMX? or used to? I ride mostly street and I was cleaning up my bike and thought the red sticker would look good. A lot to change on it as its mostly stock, first up a new back wheel assembly and some micro gearing. Some old action shots of me: Ignore the face LOL but that is mid 180 I will have to get some videos up soon, as the pics don't nearly cover the extent of it, but thought I would share.

Slowly work your way back from the bulbs testing the wire every 3 or 4 feet and find a point where it does read voltage and you can find about where it is. But wouldn't a short blow the fuse?

A sealed box will work, when space is tight it can be a good option. The second sealed box you mention seems good, after displacements it will probably have closer to 1.2 cubic feet. Stuff the enclosure with poly-fill to help.

You want to fuse the long positive run between the front battery and back two.

ehhh.. I don't really like it, but for low power I suppose it would work fine. Make sure its sealed good I didn't think fiberglass stuck that well to metal, maybe i'm wrong. I would still just take a mold of the back wall and build the back wall out of fiberglass, easier removal, etc.

Don't do this, make your back wall fiberglass if it needs to be thinner.

No vids, no good camera. Make sure your box is strong and efficient, and I think you will be pleased.