jrchevy87

that audiopipe apsm acan be had from vminnovation.com for 120 something with free shipping and they are a little overated those clamp tests show a lil over 700 watts with a 2 ohm rise, the guy that did this test said he ran it for 2 weeks on .5 ohms and never had a problem, i cant prove that but it was enough for me to give one a shot, now i just gotta come up with the money lol

or if you still want a rear stage to maintain some sort of sq lol you could try a port up through the rear deck

np, with your setup i would go with it

just get the flatwind and hyper pole and as long as your not sending a distorted signal you will be fine

the fi subs are underated as far as rms and if you get the flatwind and hyperpole it will increase your subs rms, and the only other way to set gains that i can think of without and oscope or dd-1 is to clamp the amp and just set it around 1500 watts for now untill u can find someone with a dd-1 or buy your own

go with the 1700 and the dual 2's and just set your gains conservatively untill you get the money for a dd-1

dual two ohm coils can be wired at 1 or four ohm if you get the one ohm coil u have the options of .5 ohm and 2 ohms. The flat wind coil provides more surface area for the coil to dissipate heat which improves thermal handling. if you can make sure your sending the sub clean power(dd-1 or oscope) u could give those subs every bit of power that amp will put out

if you go with two amps just make sure to match your gains with a voltmeter

it looks like its the same price either way, it just comes down to personal preference

https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn154f6a01d6b83d2/shopdata/0070_Tech/0070_Speakers/0020_Tech.BL/product_overview.shopscript thats a list of all the options and what they do, at the very least get the flat wind and hyper pole

aluminum coils are good for a lighter moving assembly which helps sensitivity and some ppl say its not that good for sound quality but ive never heard an aluminum voice coil. i just installed an 18 in an explorer, its an re audio sx 18 d2 on a hifonics zues five channel amp, i clamped it and due to his lack of electrical its only running 700 watts(i clamped it at 690 something a month ago) but it flexes pretty good for only 700 watts. im more partial to an 18, more cone area, and it just looks baddass lol. a brz 1200 would run that bl nicely at one ohm or run a brz 1700 to have that extra power if you can check it with an oscope or dd-1

i just used the liquid nails wood glue thinking it would be better cuz its like a glue and sealer in one and i was very unimpressed with the adhesion, the liquid nails construction is some good shit tho. i dont know how well it would bond to metal but u could do a test run on some scraps

sonicelectronics.com or audiosavings.com have a good selection. I have used sonic before and their shipping is great and fast but their returns are slow.

And check out other builds on this site. Look at what they run and how they like it then make ur decision

The difference is 138 amps to 40 something amps at most. There's no way a 2000 Watt amp is ever gonna push 138 amps through the speaker wire. And according to what u said his wire was sufficient for that amp load when it obviously wasn't. _

Ur talking about power wire. The wire in question is speaker wire

http://www.youtube.com/embed/p65xn_7w7tc Theres some good destruction

yeah u should always go with either a mono or 2 channel amp unless ur running more subs even then four channel amps are usually pretty limited as far as power goes

4 speakers such as mids or highs

theres a thread on sundowns clamp results and every amp they clamped did over the rating with a rise of 2 ohms i think ull have to do a search for it

that amp cant handle two ohms bridged u can run a two ohm load per channel... sounds like you need to wire each channel to a voice coil but its not gonna be any louder than with the kenwood amp... and make sure u match your gains with a voltmeter

how do you have them wired?