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how do I look under it? I can't even move it.

If it helps any I weighed it and the home scale said 33.6lbs

I picked this up in a trade but the guy really didn't know anything about it. I've been looking at pictures on the web trying to figure out what model it is but would like to find out for sure before I do anything with it. It's a dual 2 ohm 12", makes my DD3512's look tiny, and weighs a ton.

If it doesn't sell locally, any trades?

x2. Menards carries it too but it is expensive I just picked up more mdf @ Menards yesterday. $32.65 for a 3/4" 4 x 8 sheet. I looked at 13 ply birch too and it was $36 for a 4 x 8 sheet so the price difference isn't that much.

One thing I firmly believe in and I'm sure you've heard it before is that the best gun and caliber is the one you can use effectively. I've run into so many people that are all about a specific brand or caliber but can't shoot it for shit. If you're carrying a weapon for protection you have to realize that if you are ever in a situation where you need it it will be very fast and high stress so if you aren't good with your weapon in a normal or relaxed setting how are you going to be in a bad situation?

My most carried weapon is Glock for reliability and the fact that I'm quick and very accurate with them. Most of the time it's a 9mm due to capacity, lower recoil allowing more accurate and quick follow ups, and with the right ammo is very effective. All my 9mm's are loaded with Winchester rangers either in a 124gr or 147gr. I also carry Glock .45's once in a while just to change it up. Both are loaded with 230gr Hornaday TAP ammo. If you want any other info just ask.

JL 6W3 would be perfect for that space as they call for .15^3 sealed and only take 150 rms but they are also about $140.

Joe thanks for all the help. I'm getting a little overwhelmed trying to get this all figured out so I think I'm just gonna go with what I had for the last pic I posted and if I don't like it I'll go back to the drawing board later.

I don't have an 8" aero and really don't want to wait if I order one because I have to get this box done and in so I can move forward with the rest of my truck build. I have 2 4" aero's already so if there is a way I can use those I will do that instead. I tried playing with the numbers for them in Torres but they didn't look right. I can't figure out what length they would need to be to be tuned correctly and also where I would position them.

Thanks everyone for your help but I finally got it figured out after some help from DD. Funky, you're correct my numbers on the paint drawing are off. I was tired and trying to hurry and throw something together just to give a general idea. Anyway, here's what I'm working on now. Got everything cut out today and gonna start putting it together tomorrow. I know the port area is low but to keep it around 5^3 net and keep it tuned to around 35hz for a daily setup it's where it ended up. I did end up with about a half sheet of MDF left and I haven't cut the hole in the top piece for the port to come through yet so if anyone wants to suggest some changes in the port size that will still keep me at a decent tune for everyday music I'm open to the suggestions.

^^^ Anyone care to comment on my latest design? I want to get this build started today but want to make sure I have my design figured out before I start it because @ $35 a sheet and a 45 min drive in my Suburban I can't afford to screw it up.

I'm still learning Torres but when I put those numbers in (assuming you're using 3/4" mdf since you didn't specify) with one 2" diameter, 12" long port I'm getting 34.4hz. I can't get lower than that with the dimensions you provided but I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will be able to help you.

How about this: Same design and placement along the back wall of the box just with different dimensions on the port and the port will be centered. The port will also be straight now instead of "L" shaped and all the ends will be rounded. ETA: I was also playing around with the numbers if I used the 2 4" aero ports I have but to get 35.47hz they are only going to be 4.5" long or if I use 1 it would only be 1.5" long and that doesn't seem right.

Kranny, I can't have the subs face forward like that which is why I'm not going with the other designs suggested. There's not room for them because the seat backs will be right against the box. John253a, the 4" of clearance is under the entire box and the floor angles a little forward so there is actually another 1/2" of space at the front of the box so there should be plenty of room for the air to escape. I will play around with some other numbers for the port and see if I cant do a more square port coming out the middle. Will post a screen shot of Torres when I get something figured out and see what you guys think.

Tried changing some dimensions to allow me to waste less mdf getting the cuts I need so here is the new numbers. ETA: Here's a side view I did in paint quick.

Did some more precise measuring and came up with some new numbers. 51.5" wide, 20" high, 13" deep top, 16.25" deep bottom. This allows me to have the subs down-firing with 4" of space between the bottom of the box and the floor. I put the numbers in Torres but not sure if I did everything right. This is with the port running the length of the box along the back wall coming out the top. My cuts aren't going to be the same as the cut list here though because the sides are going to go to the floor to help hold it up. If this isn't correct or it's not a good idea to have the subs down and port up let me know how you think it should be changed.

I didn't get a close look at the dimensions on the drawing earlier because I was on my phone but that won't give me any room for the subs behind the seats and there is no room for my seats to move forward which is why I was hoping I could have it down firing. I'll try to get out today and see if I can squeeze out any more space in there.

Thanks for the help. Just wondering, would it make a BIG difference if I were to move my battery from back there giving me another 8" of width? I'm going to be putting a Chevy small block in the truck soon and should have room to put the battery back under the hood once that's done.

Looking for some help designing a box for my 2 DD3512's in the extended cab of a Nissan Hardbody. The dimensions I have to work with are 43.5" wide x 20" high x 11.5" deep on the top and 16.5" deep at the very bottom. I would prefer to have the subs down-firing because with those dimensions my seats will be tight against the box and the amps will be mounted on the top of the box. The port can either come out the front middle between the seats or out the left side because there will be about 8" of space between the box and sidewall because my battery is on the floor there. I will be using 3/4" MDF. I'm not looking for strictly numbers so something that is gonna get loud but at the same time sound good. Thanks in advance.

I usually run power down one side, rca's down the other side or middle depending on the vehicle, and speaker wires up the middle and split them off to their side under the dash. Rear speakers just get ran to where they need to go regardless of what other wires they have to cross paths with.

This doesn't compare to most of the videos I've seen on here but thought I would share it anyway. 4 Memphis PR 10's sealed in about 4.8 ft^3 on 1100 watts. It's in my daily driver so I didn't get too crazy with it but my truck will be a different story.

Why are you trying to put an assault rifle in her? She belongs in front of the sink washing it.

Not always True. I've had Viper as well as other DEI alarms, Avital, Alpine, Compustar, and Autopage to name a few. I would take a CompuStar over all of them however the last time I had one it was quite pricey. Since trying Autopage I will not go back to any other brands (unless I got a really good deal on a CompuStar).