Jessica

i hear the women out number men 2 to 1.

Here is the deal, when you have a gain knob, it just controls all the volume, with a bass boost knob it boosts output centred at one frequency. They work different, therefore requiring different approaches. I don't know enough about RF amps to say which yours is so i will leave that to someone more knowledgeable.

My bad i.think thats a boost knob. Some one who knows more should chime in at this point cause i don't want to guess at that.

Same here, muddy bass. You have an PEQ, so its a gain knob, i assume it's a fosgate peq. edit. No, um. lol, thats a bass boost knob, sorry i don't own a fosgate amp but i think someone else better chime in.

I prefer my h/u sub out at 0, the range is -7 to +7. just a prefence. Set it and forget it. You have a gain knob right? use it. i set mine with my gain knob at half cause some songs have less bass, some have more. Steve did his the same way. Just have to be careful with it that's all. It's important whether or not your bass knob is a gain or boost.

Well, i read your post earlier and then your edited one and thought about it for a bit. Since no one has answered i guess i will and hope no one ninja's me. So short version Head unit, bass//mid/treble at 0. subwoofer level on headunit at max, ( i like mine a 0 (-7 to +7 range)) Sub bass knob at half, if it is a gain knob, if its bass boost knob then 0 Find H/u max unclipped at 1k and 40 with 0db tones find amp with no speakers hooked up with -5db tones.

Well, i don't like it, but i have done it that way before. Is that a bolt and nut, or just a sheet metal screw holding that? I would go to the strut tower bolt if i were you if you can get to it. You cars sheet metal is probably fine for no more amperage than you are pulling, it's just really hard to get a good ground that way. and yea, if you have broke wires then that's definitely an issue.

When i say new power from alternator to battery +, i mean ADD a wire, leave your existing one there. Sorry, there is a lot of variables and diagnosing things. And doing it across the Internet can be hard to do sometimes. I know it's tough to get 4ga into that amps power connectors. I ended up soldering copper terminals on mine. to hook to the amp easier. Edit* here is that thread; http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/139844-how-to-eld-bypass-for-honda-civicaccordfit/

*edit for spelling* Maybe, is that a ground? if its a ground are there several wires broke? it's kind of hard to tell since the pic is a bit fuzzy.If you just cut into the insualtion on a ground it's probably not a big deal. To save you some trouble let me just run you through what i have heard on here a millions times. 1. Keep the ground from amp to car near 3 or 4ft long or less. 2. Your car is uni-body, so ground to a rear shock/strut tower bolt. Remove one nut from the strut mount, sand down to bare metal, put a terminal on the wire and either solder or crimp it or both. 3. Run a ground from your battery to the front shock/strut tower the same way. 4. Optional, if you are comfortable with doing this type of thing, run a new power cable (again with terminal ends) from alternator + to battery +. Since you have a civic, they sometimes have a device that will put the alternator into a low output mode. I believe yours is one of them, you can do things like turn on your headlights or a/c for a moment and it will go back into high output. That could help. I'll link to a thread that shows how to bypass that if you want. Also where are you checking your voltage from? Is it right from the amp power terminals?

Can you put up pictures of all your power connections that go to your amps? underhood, all grounds, amp connections so on? We can go from there and maybe help a bit better.

I hate being a salesman, but get a dd1 or find someone near you that you can borrow from. Here is map that might help; SMD Tools Locator You just have to match gains, but work on electrical first. Is the amp 9105d?

let me guess? 9105d? yeah they will cut out when they get hot, stop clipping so much. No really. I can run mine 30 minutes straight cranked as long as i don't clip and it doesn't cut out. when it clips it for along time it will. But hey, a little clipping on the subs isn't a huge deal just have to take it easy. You aint the first person having this issue either. Some say it runs hot by mine doesn't run very hot. It does get pretty warm, but not that bad really. edit oh, 11.4v means you need better grounds, power wire, or battery or something like that. You really don't want to dip below your batteries resting voltage. try to stay above 13v if you can.

Are you zip tie-ing those wires to the engine or an engine bracket? edit. Or are you securing them in anyway to the engine as they make their run to where they hook up?

oh, ok the picture kinda sucks, but its a pain to get underhood pics to come out good.

What is this doohickey i pointed the arrow at? Looks like it spins around or something. Have someone sit in the car and turn the steering wheel and see what it does.

I have heard of some places that will charge more for "pay at the pump". they add it to cover the fee for the credit card swipe. but they do it shady like and add cents/gallon instead of a flat fee. So people with larger tanks get hit harder. I saw it on tv so it must be true!!!111

When are you going to put that pic up?

MS PAint > photoshop. lol

or maybe this one?

Here.

Just some black crap, like the glue/past they used I meant the split in the orange coating. Probably nothing.

Whats going on here?

My 9105d, which i set with the dd-1 -5db, and my pac lc-1 at half. Will do the same thing, but... it is in a place where it cant really get good airflow, and wil only do that if i play loud bass and have the lc-1 past half for more than 15 minutes. I am pretty damn sure i am clipping, but i only turn that knob up until the volume stops getting louder then back it back down a bit. That is also with voltage drop down to 12.8 sometimes. So i would say, heat+clipping+voltage = amp dropping power. I don't think it's the amps fault.

Dude!, my 89 astro van had 239k when the headgasket when out. It had a very very hard life. I even used it to haul cars on a trailer to the scrap yard. That 4.6 was crazy reliable. Of course it's too bad it rusted from the inside out. Now its in scrap yard heaven.Heck i even made a profit on it cause the price of iron was so high.

I don't care.