Jessica

I did give you advice

Whats wrong with flame wars, at least it makes it fun. You are more like a hall monitor than a moderator anyways, no one likes a hall monitor. I'm not here to make friends.

I was just pondering how many members are sitting at their computers and refreshing steves youtube page waiting for the video to show up.

Something to help you decide is that you listed Dual voice coil subs, one is 4ohm and the other is two ohm. You need to figure what you want your final ohm load to be and if you have the electrical for it. Can you give us an idea on those first.

alright man, Seriously. read the rules. Please. You may not understand why there are no "VS" threads but all they do is start flame wars and cause arguments.I'm such a rent-a-mod now. But i did p.m. you telling you this already so i figured maybe you didn;t see it.

p.m. sent oh, and welcome to the forums.

You guys keep saying plexi. Why not Lexan? It's way stronger, its probably stronger that wood at the same thickness. Or is it just assumed that when you say plexi you mean Lexan? Edit* grammar

Thanks for the reply. I am not using any bass boost. My mids play fairly well down to 65 so during my test i noticed that flipping the phase switch on my sub amp gave me more midbass. So i did have some cancellation before. I also had attenuated my mid's freq, from 80 and below as much as i could. Now that i am not cancelling any more i have let those freq. down to 65 play on my mids and am still attenuating below that by as much as i can. That has helped a lot but there is only so much you can do with a mid range driver.And like you i listen to a large variety of music. I may be expecting too much, or like you said it could just be the car's characteristics. Tomorrow i will try moving the box around again and try subs up and forward and such and see what happens. I do remember subs up was a close second to subs back, so maybe i could sacrifice a few db's o get some Sq. Not like i am competing anyway.

Oh, and you might get asked this too. What kind of electrical do you have? What alternator? how many amps does it produce? Done the big three yet? What do you expect from your system? What is your budget? What type of Truck? What do you intend to do? Compete, Daily ride, SQ, SPL so on..

Don't take it persona; if you don't get brand recommendations. You see i've only been here a short time and i have seen hundreds of these types of threads pop up from new members. So you see people get tired of answering the same question over and over again. Plus most these threads end up turning into "VS." threads which against the rules. I would recommend reading as many stickied threads as you can and use the search feature. Look through the members builds and research what others use by using google and the search feature here. Sorry i didn't answer your question/

they recommend 1.0 to 1.5, so i put it in the middle. With the power handling in the subs, I'd go RIGHT at 1 cubic foot to each. I'll bet it's a tighter response into the higher frequencies. Well, thats easy enough, i can cut some mdf panels the same size as my internal W and H and tack them in the back of the box to take up space and see what it does.

I'll was bouncing the idea of a ported or slot port but i'm afraid that would compound my problem even more. I'm think my resonate freq. is around 50hz, since it plays the loudest there.

they recommend 1.0 to 1.5, so i put it in the middle. edit. I'm at 1.25, not 1.5.

You missed the question completely, nice try though. I'm looking for more high bass response.

Alright, Here are the basics first. Car: 87 Honda Accord Hatchback Subs: 2X Kenwood 3013ps Amp: Kenwood 9015d Xover 80hz Enclosure 1.25cuft/side sealed 1"mdf with divider Subs pointing back about 12" to 15" from back of car. Here is the deal. below 30hz bass drops off slowly then drops off super fast below 25. Thats fine. 30hz to 65hz is pretty smooth. 65 to 80 drops off about as fast as 25 and down. So my question is, should i build a smaller sealed encloure to bring that up, build a ported enclosure, or just get some midbass speakers to cover that range and turn my LPF down to about 70hz? if you have another idea present it. Thanks p.s. I did test this with some test tones going in 1hz increments from 20hz to 100hz. I did find i needed to flip my subs to reverse phase (on the amp) and that helped some. Everything is wired with correct polarity. + to + and - to -

derailed thread much? O.p. are you going to define freaking out?:

Sorry, i just saw pioneer and 20 watts. 4x6 component sets exist. and also an amp too also. You add tweeters without adding an amp i would just run the rear channel on the head unit to the front speakers and the front channel to the tweets. If you want to go cheap.

Wait, you have some 20 watt "x9's" with 2 tweeters and you want to add more tweeters. Save your money and just buy a good component set. If you like high's get infinfity reference line. i own them and i have to attenuate the hell out of those things to knock the edge off.

You may run into an issue doing that since you either have to wire 2ohm or 8ohm. Well depending on that tweeters you get and the mids you have now. Your h/u might not like that. But the whole ohm load thing is just going to make this thread a clusterf**k if we get into that.

It's not going to take a year to save up the 400, I get what you are saying, but even the el-cheapo comes with lifetime warranty, so no out of pocket for me if it dies. Once again, thanks for the advice, i do sincerely appreciate it. I will be forking out the dough for a good one, just not right now. Consider this a band-aid. We've all been there before and we've all done this type of thing. I suppose it's my fault for putting such a burden on my elecrical. Oh well, live and learn, right?

Is her mom hot?

I've done the math, and yes, i could potentially need 100a for the system, but the system isnt going to pull full amps 24/7. This isn't like i just said i want to upgrade and] cut corners, i just happen to need an alt now and am seeing whats available. So for now i'm going with another OEM 65a alt. and just save up for a better one cause $400 bucks aint happenin right now. But when i do upgrade i'll probably just go with a 270a so i have some overhead.

That's why i posted that link. The only oem's available are 65 amp. I did contact all of the vendors listed but i can't justify spending $400 on a 200a when a 65a cost $60, just doesn't add up in my book. 120 to 150 would be plenty for my needs. Thanks for the replies. You gotta pay to play. That 65a/$60 alt is made in Mexico with cheap parts and is designed to just make the car run. The brands mentioned are built for high output with parts that'll last. Would you run batteries from Walmart just because you can't justify spending the cash for XS Power....a battery is a battery, right? What are you running and what are your plans? Yeah, i would run batteries from wal mart as a matter of fact.(i would love to have some XS's but can't afford them) You know, two kids, mortgage, car payment, bills, food. That stuff. Anyway, My alternator is on its way out and i'm just looking at options. Seeing how i'm on a budget i don;t want to buy an el-cheapo now then buy another in a year or two.I posted a link to one that's 120 amp for a good price. That should will cover anything i want to do. As for the current draw currently. If you go by fuse ratings i will only draw about 80 with the amplifiers i have, plus the stereo and carputer plus the cars electrical. I'm not shelling out $400 bucks for a 200 amp alternator because thats ridiculous. I could see $200 to maybe $250 for a 200 amp. Anyway, i do appreciate the advice and i did contact all three of those vendors. So we will see what that brings.

That's why i posted that link. The only oem's available are 65 amp. I did contact all of the vendors listed but i can't justify spending $400 on a 200a when a 65a cost $60, just doesn't add up in my book. 120 to 150 would be plenty for my needs. Thanks for the replies.