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Found 14 results

  1. Hey guy. I’m really struggling to understand if the sundown audio sa-12 with work for this box. Sundown audio SA-12 1.5-2.0 ft^3 @ 35hz Ported sub box Volume: 1.75 cu.ft net Vented Box Standard Port Configuration: 12.5"x2.5" x 24" Long Tuning: 33 hZ Does it matter that the hz is off by two? And if it does what could i do to make it match? Also on I saw that on the sundown audio website that it says .14 ft^3 displacement for a ported box. What does that mean and will this box still be ok for it. It seems to fix other wise. Subwoofer http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/subwoofers/sa-series Ported box http://subthump.com/Jeep-Wrangler-TJ-YJ-and-JK-Custom-Subwoofer-Enclosures-by-Subthump/New-20072016-Jeep-Wrangler-Single-12-Vented-Front-Fire-Sub-Enclosure-wAmp-Shelf-clone-1.html Thanks!
  2. Hi everyone, For some reason my custom made sub box for my 1x sundown zv3 12" dual 2ohm from my local car audio installer sounded not as ok as I think it would. I suppose you can say it hits some bass notes (frequency) pretty well but some just unbearable or missing or can't be heard or weak. For example: when i play lil wayne 6ft 7ft its good but when I play something like yg - who do you love. the intro onwards is just weak (shouldn't say weak but seems semi-missing or should i say not hitting maybe) Anyhow my low bass setup: skar 1500.1 setting 90hz LPF , phase 0, bass boost 0, subsonic about 32hz can't really tell as its extremely hard to tell where its at, gain set with multi meter at about 39 (1500 square root) Sub - single SD 12 zv3 dual 2ohm Most importantly the box: 17W x 14H x 22D MDF 0.75 - port 2" with port length18" L1 + 8.5"L2 should be at 32hz ( I did used the RE calculator but human error could happen) I don't know why this is happening but I did try to put the subs in my 1.75cu box it sounded boomier but bass were not that clean) but its still better than missing or unable to hear. Note : car BMW e60 520i 2003 with ski hole cut should i just have another box build? By the way i'm looking for best in both world SPL & SQ. your valuable inputs is very much appreciated SImon
  3. I recently picked up a Orion hcca 15, it a d4 and it's going between the seats of my Dodge ram 1500 reg cab and I'm needing help with a box. I'm running it on a shark 3500.1 at 2ohms. I have big 3 and 2 optima batteries. The space I'm working with is 17.5w x 38L x 15H. I'm not sure if it will be better sealed or ported in such a small space. I had a sundown zv3 in 3.5 tuned to 31hz using a 6" port in the same spot and it slammed. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
  4. I really need help with a box design for a zv3 15" d1 that I just picked. I have it in a Dodge ram 1500 reg cab. I pulled out the center console and built a box between the seats. The first box I tried was 3ft after disp @34hz using 2-4" ports and running off a sundown sae1200. The sub was facing up and ports coming out the front towards the dash. It sounded OK but would not play Lowe's very well for a 15" sub. So I built another box that is 3.5ft after disp @ 31.5hz using a single 6inch port, same with sub facing up and port forward and it still does not pick up lows like I think it should. Is it the port size? Is it the single cab of my truck? Is it the way the sub and port are arranged???? Any help would be great, thanks!!
  5. So I think a lot of ported boxes are built with undersized ports and this is why I'm always trying to figure out just how much port do you need to have? In the past I've talked about Small's formula that uses driver displacement and tuning frequency to determine port area needed to keep you under the dreaded 17 m/s of port velocity. My big question is what effect does flaring the ports ends (or aero ports) have? I know it allows you to have higher velocities, but just how much? This is what I wanted to find out. To find out here is my testing apparatus: I used an old 1.5 cu ft box I had built before I knew what I was doing, a cheap MCM 8" driver, and flared and unflared round and slot ports I can attach to the outside of the box. Here are what my round ports look like. Its kinda hard to tell in the picture but the one on the left has a 3/4" round over on both ends giving it a nice flare. I purposefully undersized my ports by a significant amount. I didn't want to have to work hard to get port noise, and during the test I certainly didn't. All the ports are tuned to 35 Hz and they all have pretty much the same area. The flared ports are a little longer to take into account the flare and still keep the tuning the same. To do the test I played a 35 Hz tone through the driver and slowly turned up the gain until I could just start to hear chuffing. I then recorded the voltage going to the driver. I also turned up the gain until the port noise was fairly noticeable from a couple feet away and recorded the voltage. Here is what my setup looks like during a test: So what were the results? The non-flared slot port was the first to start making port noise, which comes as no surprise with its sharp edges and corners. The non-flared round port took a little more power but not much. The flared ports both took quite a bit more power before they started making noise. Turns out you can put about 2.5 times as much power into a flared port vs a non-flared port before you get any port noise. So 2.5 fold increase of power will increase your port velocity by about 37%, so port that would start making noise at 17 m/sec can now flow a little over 23 m/sec. Knowing this I should be able to reduce port size by 37% if I use well flared ports. Now we are getting somewhere! While I definitely learned some interesting info from this test, it also left me with more questions. While I can measure how much power increase it takes to make a flared port chuff I don't have a way of knowing how many actual watts it took or what my actual port velocities were and I really wish I did. I know that when it comes to fluid dynamics things don't scale linearly with size, just because a 2" port chuffs at 17 m/sec doesn't mean a 4" or 6" port will. This is why I think Small's formula, while certainly a good starting point, gives us a little too simple of an answer. Really just how much velocity can I push through a 75 sq. in. 4.5" wide flared port before I get a noticeable amount of port noise? I suspect its a lot more than 23 m/sec. I guess finding a way to figure that out will be my next goal. Anway, I hope you folks at least found this interesting, if not useful in some way.
  6. I just picked up a sundown zv3 15" and I need help with a box to go where my center console was in my reg cab Dodge ram. I will be running it off a sundown SAE 1200. I listen to mostly rab and I like lows. The area I have to fit the box is 37" L x 17.5"w x 14" H. Thanks for any help!!!
  7. Hi Everyone, I recently bought a new car and of course the factory subs weren't enough. I had a couple of old pioneer 12"s laying around i decided to install. I want a good sounding system that does the job for as low power as they are. I already have the sealed box built... (custom fiberglass coated in Herculiner) ... but i dont know exactly how to make the ported box on the other side. (This is the slot it will go in) I am trying to make it as small as i can (not take up too much trunk room) and still make it look nice. I already have 3/4" MDF from previous builds and i will coat it in Herculiner to make it match the other one. Any help is appreciated and i can get measurements later on. Its an 07' Mustang Gt if that helps any. Thanks!
  8. i just got a pair of sundown sa-10. i know they reccomend a ported or sealed enclosure. i would like to go with a ported since i have a planet audio 2600w amp thats going to push them. i just dont know how or understand how to figure the dimensions for the ported box. i have a total space of 48"w X 12"d X 12"h. it says i need a 1.0-1.25 cubic feet tuned to 35Hz. any pics or cut out lists would be a big help. i also plan on using 3/4 MDF.
  9. Hello, Can someone recommend me ported box for FI Q 15"? Amp that will pushing it is Hifonics bxi6000d wired to 1ohm (rated at 3kw rms) Max dimensions that fit in trunk: 36" width x 18.5" height x 16.5" depth Ask if you need any more info. Thanks! This is original picture of subwoofer
  10. So i built a box lastnight to specs for 2 db drive wdx 8 g2 dual 4 subs. Box is 2.26 cubes net after sub displacememnt tuned to 33 hz with 20" of port 22" long. And it doesnt sound like i believe it should. Its got plenty of power from my mmats mpa-2000.1d amp. Any advice would greatly be appreciated.
  11. i have a 2002 accord coupe...installing 2 new alpine type r 12's with kicker zx750.1 on each sub. anyone got any good box/round port dimensions for this setup.im thinkin box can be 2/3 trunk space
  12. I recently picked up a Orion hcca 15, it a d4 and it's going between the seats of my Dodge ram 1500 reg cab and I'm needing help with a box. I'm running it on a shark 3500.1 at 2ohms. I have big 3 and 2 optima batteries. The space I'm working with is 17.5w x 38L x 15H. I'm not sure if it will be better sealed or ported in such a small space. I had a sundown zv3 in 3.5 tuned to 31hz using a 6" port in the same spot and it slammed. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
  13. I need help with a ported box design for a Sundown Audio E-12 v2 to be put in a 2005 Honda Civic VP. I don't care for trunk space, just want to feel the nice low notes by giving this sub a proper box. I'm in San Diego if there's any local box builders near me.
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