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Found 21 results

  1. Hey guy. I’m really struggling to understand if the sundown audio sa-12 with work for this box. Sundown audio SA-12 1.5-2.0 ft^3 @ 35hz Ported sub box Volume: 1.75 cu.ft net Vented Box Standard Port Configuration: 12.5"x2.5" x 24" Long Tuning: 33 hZ Does it matter that the hz is off by two? And if it does what could i do to make it match? Also on I saw that on the sundown audio website that it says .14 ft^3 displacement for a ported box. What does that mean and will this box still be ok for it. It seems to fix other wise. Subwoofer Ported box Thanks!
  2. So i built a box lastnight to specs for 2 db drive wdx 8 g2 dual 4 subs. Box is 2.26 cubes net after sub displacememnt tuned to 33 hz with 20" of port 22" long. And it doesnt sound like i believe it should. Its got plenty of power from my mmats mpa-2000.1d amp. Any advice would greatly be appreciated.
  3. Hello, Can someone recommend me ported box for FI Q 15"? Amp that will pushing it is Hifonics bxi6000d wired to 1ohm (rated at 3kw rms) Max dimensions that fit in trunk: 36" width x 18.5" height x 16.5" depth Ask if you need any more info. Thanks! This is original picture of subwoofer
  4. I recently picked up a Orion hcca 15, it a d4 and it's going between the seats of my Dodge ram 1500 reg cab and I'm needing help with a box. I'm running it on a shark 3500.1 at 2ohms. I have big 3 and 2 optima batteries. The space I'm working with is 17.5w x 38L x 15H. I'm not sure if it will be better sealed or ported in such a small space. I had a sundown zv3 in 3.5 tuned to 31hz using a 6" port in the same spot and it slammed. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
  5. I recently picked up a Orion hcca 15, it a d4 and it's going between the seats of my Dodge ram 1500 reg cab and I'm needing help with a box. I'm running it on a shark 3500.1 at 2ohms. I have big 3 and 2 optima batteries. The space I'm working with is 17.5w x 38L x 15H. I'm not sure if it will be better sealed or ported in such a small space. I had a sundown zv3 in 3.5 tuned to 31hz using a 6" port in the same spot and it slammed. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
  6. I really need help with a box design for a zv3 15" d1 that I just picked. I have it in a Dodge ram 1500 reg cab. I pulled out the center console and built a box between the seats. The first box I tried was 3ft after disp @34hz using 2-4" ports and running off a sundown sae1200. The sub was facing up and ports coming out the front towards the dash. It sounded OK but would not play Lowe's very well for a 15" sub. So I built another box that is 3.5ft after disp @ 31.5hz using a single 6inch port, same with sub facing up and port forward and it still does not pick up lows like I think it should. Is it the port size? Is it the single cab of my truck? Is it the way the sub and port are arranged???? Any help would be great, thanks!!
  7. I just picked up a sundown zv3 15" and I need help with a box to go where my center console was in my reg cab Dodge ram. I will be running it off a sundown SAE 1200. I listen to mostly rab and I like lows. The area I have to fit the box is 37" L x 17.5"w x 14" H. Thanks for any help!!!
  8. I have an f150 crew cab and im building a flow through center console for my two alpine typr r 12s. My max dimensions are 13.5 wide and 30.25 long till the back seat but it will come up over the middle of the back seat. I wanna keep it around 17-18 inches tall cause it will serve as an armrest too. The subs will most likley be down firing and im gonna do the port in the area over the back seat. However i know absolutly nothing about ports and since it is a somewhat weird shape none of the box calculators are acurate. Any help on the port design/size will be appriciated. Also, how do you post pics on here so i can show a drawing of what im thinking about doing
  9. I need help with a ported box design for a Sundown Audio E-12 v2 to be put in a 2005 Honda Civic VP. I don't care for trunk space, just want to feel the nice low notes by giving this sub a proper box. I'm in San Diego if there's any local box builders near me.
  10. eparker5470

    box design experience

    i have a 2002 accord coupe...installing 2 new alpine type r 12's with kicker zx750.1 on each sub. anyone got any good box/round port dimensions for this thinkin box can be 2/3 trunk space
  11. Well I broke down and went and bought a fully loaded custom rebuilt 12" Fi BL sub from a guy off I have decided that I want to start entering into some comp's as soon as there is one near me. I have always wanted to compete but have never owned a sub/amp setup like this until now. Just looking for all the advice/help that I can get right now to design/build a box for both competitions and daily. Vehicle: 2000 Ford Taurus Max Height: 14in Max Width: 34in Max Depth: 36in Comp Box Specs 2.5cuft tuned @45hz Double Baffled/Flush Mount Sub Daily Box Specs 3cuft tuned @30hz Double Baffled/Flush Mount Sub Powered by Hifonics BRZ1200.1D Any and all help with this build will be greatly appreciated. I did look into having woofer warehouse or RamDesigns to do a custom design for me. I would design it myself but I have no way to design it myself right now. I want to do a kerf port on my daily box for looks if thats not too much to ask for. Building the box is the best part and I want to make sure that it is done right and match the sub as best possible. Below are some pics and specs of the custom Fi Bl 12 Custom rebuilt FI BL 12 with a TI basket 2. Specs: Dual 1.5 ohm 1500 rms *FI BL motor *TI Basket *Sundown Zv2 cone *2 stiff linear 10" spiders *D1.5 ohm flat wound 8 layer coil *Genesis Carbon Fiber Dust Cap
  12. Hi everyone, For some reason my custom made sub box for my 1x sundown zv3 12" dual 2ohm from my local car audio installer sounded not as ok as I think it would. I suppose you can say it hits some bass notes (frequency) pretty well but some just unbearable or missing or can't be heard or weak. For example: when i play lil wayne 6ft 7ft its good but when I play something like yg - who do you love. the intro onwards is just weak (shouldn't say weak but seems semi-missing or should i say not hitting maybe) Anyhow my low bass setup: skar 1500.1 setting 90hz LPF , phase 0, bass boost 0, subsonic about 32hz can't really tell as its extremely hard to tell where its at, gain set with multi meter at about 39 (1500 square root) Sub - single SD 12 zv3 dual 2ohm Most importantly the box: 17W x 14H x 22D MDF 0.75 - port 2" with port length18" L1 + 8.5"L2 should be at 32hz ( I did used the RE calculator but human error could happen) I don't know why this is happening but I did try to put the subs in my 1.75cu box it sounded boomier but bass were not that clean) but its still better than missing or unable to hear. Note : car BMW e60 520i 2003 with ski hole cut should i just have another box build? By the way i'm looking for best in both world SPL & SQ. your valuable inputs is very much appreciated SImon
  13. I have 1 soundqubed hdc3 18" and I need to build a ported box box. Only boxes I have ever built were sealed boxes for 12's so this will be my first ported box build for an 18. I want to know how you get the measurements for the port height and width. Ik how to use the port length calculator but how do you originally find the width and height of the port. Also this will be a slotted port and the 18 will be going in a 6.5 cubic foot box and I want it to be tuned around 35hz. Does this sound like a good sized box and a good tuning frequency? Thanks
  14. As of lately I've been having doubts about my system in regards to installing/putting more into it or just stopping and leaving it the way it is. I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe with 2 Fi Q 15's on 2K watts. An under-sized Ported Box tuned to 30hz (probably is 4.5 cubes on 2 15's...really small). Stock alternator. 2 Batteries (still dips voltage though). Stock Bose mids + tweeters. Have NO sound deadener installed atm. Anyway I'm just going to list out the things i'd LIKE to do to the truck soon, but don't know how worth it it would be to do so, here it is: single or double layer Murder Mat in the entire truck, get clean+loud mids + highs, get a 7-8 cu ft Ported Box tuned to 33hz (have NO IDEA where port(s) should be - still facing trunk lid OR facing roof? - not to mention id like to keep my middle row seats), and possibly upgrade the alternator to a 250+ amp. My problem is if I decide to do even ONE of those things in that list, I figure i should do ALL of them just to have my system "perfect" as much as it can be and possibly compete hopefully one day soon. You can imagine to do all that it once would cost a decent amount of cash. There's a nerve-wrecking issue I'm having with the overall Sound Quality of my build atm. That would be the front 2 doors + windows rattling / making a heavy amount of unwanted tones. I figured 2 15's on only 2k wouldn't make that much bad noise, but it does in my truck. I literally have to press my leg against the door panel to bring those noises down to a cleaner level of sound. The lows arent as bad as the highs, but it still irritates the heck out of me. Well guys I know this is a pretty lengthy post but if anyone has any advice about sound quality, the box design + space in the vehicle, etc id really appreciate it. I'd HATE to just say that I'm done with the whole bass system after i put quit a bit of time and money into the truck already, but its almost coming down to that. Would anyone with sound-deadened systems be able to tell me how much the deadener helps with door panel and especially window noise? I appreciate whoever can offer anything, thanks in advance.
  15. So I think a lot of ported boxes are built with undersized ports and this is why I'm always trying to figure out just how much port do you need to have? In the past I've talked about Small's formula that uses driver displacement and tuning frequency to determine port area needed to keep you under the dreaded 17 m/s of port velocity. My big question is what effect does flaring the ports ends (or aero ports) have? I know it allows you to have higher velocities, but just how much? This is what I wanted to find out. To find out here is my testing apparatus: I used an old 1.5 cu ft box I had built before I knew what I was doing, a cheap MCM 8" driver, and flared and unflared round and slot ports I can attach to the outside of the box. Here are what my round ports look like. Its kinda hard to tell in the picture but the one on the left has a 3/4" round over on both ends giving it a nice flare. I purposefully undersized my ports by a significant amount. I didn't want to have to work hard to get port noise, and during the test I certainly didn't. All the ports are tuned to 35 Hz and they all have pretty much the same area. The flared ports are a little longer to take into account the flare and still keep the tuning the same. To do the test I played a 35 Hz tone through the driver and slowly turned up the gain until I could just start to hear chuffing. I then recorded the voltage going to the driver. I also turned up the gain until the port noise was fairly noticeable from a couple feet away and recorded the voltage. Here is what my setup looks like during a test: So what were the results? The non-flared slot port was the first to start making port noise, which comes as no surprise with its sharp edges and corners. The non-flared round port took a little more power but not much. The flared ports both took quite a bit more power before they started making noise. Turns out you can put about 2.5 times as much power into a flared port vs a non-flared port before you get any port noise. So 2.5 fold increase of power will increase your port velocity by about 37%, so port that would start making noise at 17 m/sec can now flow a little over 23 m/sec. Knowing this I should be able to reduce port size by 37% if I use well flared ports. Now we are getting somewhere! While I definitely learned some interesting info from this test, it also left me with more questions. While I can measure how much power increase it takes to make a flared port chuff I don't have a way of knowing how many actual watts it took or what my actual port velocities were and I really wish I did. I know that when it comes to fluid dynamics things don't scale linearly with size, just because a 2" port chuffs at 17 m/sec doesn't mean a 4" or 6" port will. This is why I think Small's formula, while certainly a good starting point, gives us a little too simple of an answer. Really just how much velocity can I push through a 75 sq. in. 4.5" wide flared port before I get a noticeable amount of port noise? I suspect its a lot more than 23 m/sec. I guess finding a way to figure that out will be my next goal. Anway, I hope you folks at least found this interesting, if not useful in some way.
  16. Hi Everyone, I recently bought a new car and of course the factory subs weren't enough. I had a couple of old pioneer 12"s laying around i decided to install. I want a good sounding system that does the job for as low power as they are. I already have the sealed box built... (custom fiberglass coated in Herculiner) ... but i dont know exactly how to make the ported box on the other side. (This is the slot it will go in) I am trying to make it as small as i can (not take up too much trunk room) and still make it look nice. I already have 3/4" MDF from previous builds and i will coat it in Herculiner to make it match the other one. Any help is appreciated and i can get measurements later on. Its an 07' Mustang Gt if that helps any. Thanks!
  17. i just got a pair of sundown sa-10. i know they reccomend a ported or sealed enclosure. i would like to go with a ported since i have a planet audio 2600w amp thats going to push them. i just dont know how or understand how to figure the dimensions for the ported box. i have a total space of 48"w X 12"d X 12"h. it says i need a 1.0-1.25 cubic feet tuned to 35Hz. any pics or cut out lists would be a big help. i also plan on using 3/4 MDF.
  18. Hello, First note I appologize for any and all bad spelling and grammer lol! I am new to ported box building and need major help. For starters I listen to just about anythink as far as music and not much for constant high volume, but i do enjoy a good consistancy of bass. I have gone through 5 subs in past 3yrs. So far 4 had been Alpine Type R's and put in boxes that where recommended from both reviews as well through tuning calculators saying it's a close match. 5th sub was a Memphis Mojo 10d2 bought with a custom box built same day, that lasted me a hold 4 months at normal listening levels before blowing out at random! At this point I measured the box myself and it was 0.10cf to small! I got another Mojo for free as a replacement thanks to the shops mistake and this ones in a Bassworx box, sounds amazing, but at higher volume you can hear reverb from port and tuning not being correct. Using my current Mojo (15-Mojo10d2) I'd like to have a custom box built correctly! I have been messing around with many calculators and having bad luck getting the box shape I want. If someone would please help me I grately appreciate it! I'm wanting a wide box with eather a bottom port or two side ports. I'm not sure if should just use round ports or go for slot to give the hole box better stability. Box idea is for SPL or close to SQL, box roughly (Wide 22''-25'', Tall 13''-15", Depth 13''-15'') and will have a rear glass window with LED in the box. Woofer displacement of 0.14cf (Cone/Mounting Hole 9.43'', Mounting Depth 7.5'', Xmax 0.625, Magnet Diameter 8'', Magnet Height 4") SPL - 1.50cf 45Hz SQL - 2.25cf 35Hz ANY AND ALL HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED! Needs this monster sub to last!!! (Notes) Stereo Deck - Pioneer: deh p5100ub Mids/Highs - Pioneer D Series (running off Deck only) Sub Amp - Alpine: MRP M500 Sub - Memphis: 15-MOJO10D2 (10") Sub wired to 4ohm running at 300rms...
  19. So this is my first time building a box and the past couple days I have been looking at designs. What I decided to make was a 2 common wall slot ported box. It is for 2 15" CVR's on a 1700.1 hifonics. Tuned at 31-32 Hz. Basically I just want to know whether I did it right or not. If I messed up please tell me where I messed up at. I am including 3 pictures. 1 of torres and 2 of sketchup. The dimensions are in the pictures but in case you cannot see the box exterior dimensions are 44"Wx27.5Dx16.75H and the port is 7.5"Wx15.25"Hx30"L. I left the port length drawn in the picture and the measurements are 1' 7 5/8" + 7 15/16" + 2 7/16" which should equal 30. Also the width of the port by the wedge and in the back is 3". Thanks for all your replies hope I included enough info.