V8SRSLO

just an fyi Mobil 1 isnt very good anymore they changed their formula to staisfiy the green movment and keep the API ring on the bottle which basically eliminates zinc and phosphorus if you want good protection use oils high in zinc and phosphorus they wont have the nifty little API gear looking ring of approval and most likely labeled as race oils . 2 best oils IMO currently are #1Red Line and 2#Schaeffer. side note i cant tell you how many times while i worked at GM advanced engineering, Royal Purple failed in testing. at the time the 2 best oils tested were Mobil 1 & Amsoil to the best of my knowledge Amsoil is still a great product and have personally seen them cut a check for a blown engine due to poor oil ! Edit* valvoline race oils are available at almost every autoparts store and it is a fine oil also

it has been and can be done but very tricky because you have to regulate the oil temp between 200-250ish to low of a temp is just as bad as to high. the amount of oil in the reservoir needs to be sufficient but not to much or to little. i wouldn't suggest trying it honestly as self sustained systems take alot of r&d + trial and error to get right

if your timing was @ 15deg before and you put it to zero you will lose alot of power

I thought he put 2 T15k's in the caddy he did..those are the T15k's. they're only 15k..lol whoops i thought they were 25k for some reason maybe thats what they cost lol

Fosgate has a 25,000 rms amp there is a video around here somewhere of Steve demoing a truck with 2 of them in it. I believe they are also the cleanest power amp ever also

I run fronts only in a 4 door and havent missed the rears one bit

does anyone know the specs for this? would it make a good mid bass ?

playing under tune causes the sub to unload ,maxing out excursion= hard on spiders, surround,voice coil if it bottoms , during this the cone can distort ,tear, hit the winding

Years ago i was told port area = DB (port being a mega phone of sorts for the subs) whether this was misinformation or not ? if true large square/rectangle would be louder! someone please school me on current theory!

Thanks to which ever mod moved it

think i could get a mod to move it?

cup trick http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-4S-2EhI3A tried to get it to float with the door open lol http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BT07EvWjqF8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djjRVVvoA8g

went this morning a made a few videos, not very impressive compared to 18's but still cool for 2 10's on 800 rms i was really surprised by the flex as BMW uses much thicker steel than many other companys sunroof flex http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBRoUsSo_lY rear door flexing paper trick1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7paYZA2kN0 paper trick 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Mm1BubwIx0

Im in Bristol about an hour and 1/2 from Knoxville. im a few minutes from 3 borders NC,KY,VA

if your gasket popped from an overheat you now have a warped surface and need the head milled and the block decked

back in early 90's there were single coil 8 ohm car subs

honestly a handheld tuner may give you 25 hp for 200-300 bucks IMO find a reputable shop that can remap your ecu for your specific truck. Most shops charge in the same range as a handheld and you get a much better fuel and timing map tailored for your truck, not a tune in a box that will work on anything. You should see more hp and more mpg with a good tune for your specific truck

if you put a HG on 5 months ago i would question why it blew. Something has to be wrong. warped deck surface and or head,bad tune,improper torque and or sequence something is going on i assure you! the best gasket hands down is a muti layered steel felpro perma torque. I have seen them used to 90 psi in boosted drag engines. Many world record cars run them. Just remember if the gasket holds and there is a underlying problem you may end up with broken/melted pistons,rod through your block etc..

I am surprised no one has asked wtf im using for the front baffle

Thank you! yes there are plans for at least another 6k to the subs!

yea the story is fake but its a real amp! WTF 10% THD mmm clean power right there!

10in xl m2's well my goal is the 3 10's with 2500rms going to each, 4-5 xs power d3100's, mechman 320a(largest i can find for a BMW),everything prettied up with some carbon glass work and maybe one more set of components on the rear deck. i had planned on needing alot more but i went with the PPI Powers because of size and originally wanting to hack them into the stock housings, to my surprise they are REALLY loud and clean. Im sure ill end up with a line driver and something like a dqxs also.

got another sub in today! just one more an i can start with the resin and carbon on the front. I wish i wasnt spread so thin, its killing me waiting to get parts, i like to just do it all at once!

Thank you

Hello everyone! names Rich Im a retired engine development tech for GM, before that i built hot rods, race cars and worked some top fuel. I currently opened a small performance shop here in Bristol TN and decided to get back into audio. the last car audio project was way back in 94-95 it was a Beretta with 7 component sets in each door and 6 JL audio 12's, par 225,pce 440 noise gate,frx 322, some eqt's and several precision amps. I can see some things have changed others never will,Im not up on some of the current stuff so go easy on me for a bit My current project is a BMW M3 sedan its taking longer than i had hope'd for, but money is a little tight with opening the shop,wife,kids,hail damaged roof that insurance wont cover and the list goes on! here are some pics of the progress(please excuse all the mud for now we were having some monsoon flooding problems for awhile here) The car for the project I upgraded all the factory ground points with 0 gauge shoe horned some 6in mid bass's in where the factory 5in were cut the factory tweets out and epoxied new ones in there stock housing. I couldnt do the same for the mids working on carbon trim rings for those making the mold for the trim rings putting in some sound deadner Port location for the box into cab via rear deck starting on the amp rack and WTH im going to fit them lol box in with one hole cut testing fitment 1/8 in clearance @ full excursion to the rear seats when up( not much but it clears)