korey_hofer

do you know the points and slope of the x overs?

looks like I am unclassifiable lmao

subs up I could not get it to stop peaking around 45hz, back I was able to get it to play flat. I tried sub back port driver side and it moved more air but seemed more quiet.

on a very minute scale, other factors are more important when box size comes to it.

dd's use cheap laminated spiders, you want to tear them in half go full tilt out of the box. If you want your sub to last break it in. The dc's spl subs have the same problem to all of you dc guys trying to one up on DD.

but ideally you still want it as low as possible correct? for a burp box you want it low as possible, for a daily box you want it to be flat. A speaker is more efficient right around resonant freq. you need it to rise at res freq to lower the input power it receives so it will play all freq equally. There is a lot more to impedance rise then just rising 10db and be done with it. Heat, humidity, air flow, wattage, freq, all have an effect on how much the coil's impedance will rise. To be correct, it's not rising at all, the enclosure lowers impedance spikes, play a driver free air and clamp it to see how far it spikes, that is why wall socket test are completely pointless. Everybody always ignores the fact you need impedance to ''rise'' to get a flat responding sub stage. you want your highest peak impedance to be low as possible as it is almost always at your most efficient spot in your enclosure, after that you want it to level out the spikes and dips in the drivers response.

that makes no sense at all coming from you it's no surprise you don't have a clue.

am I the only one that knows impedance rise is what makes your system play all freq evenly with out it all you could play is woofer fs?

here is a comparison vs 12'' hd3c for the people that don't know these

you have a blazer you want to tune to 35hz and face every thing backwards. I've done maybe 20-30 systems in my blazer before it got wrecked, back was the flattest, lowest, and loudest to ear. To the meter subs up metered slightly higher

well I can measure it with a tape measure I had a caliper measurement, but that is saved to my pm's on caco and I can't get to them. the gap is right around 2 15/16-3 3/16. I had 4 layer d1.4's in it. all 4 I paid 1600 plus shipping I just need to sell these

how do you know the pads aren't shot then?

easiest mod is tbar crank if 4wd and any weird scraping marks in the back? if not it's probably inside the rear axle.

yes you will be fine, I've ran my subs off head unit power before. The only thing you will have a problem with is it won't break in nearly as fast so it will take longer to play low as it is designed to do.

I didn't know it would should harmonic distortion, the audio pipe guys need to invest in one then. I was serious with my question, I figured I over looked something and I had. They are the same price though (dd and oscope)

Yes, find someone with a o-scope or better yet get urself one of these Click Here and learn to set ur gains urself could you explain to me how that is better than an oscope? It's faster and more simple to use but I don't see how it's ''better''

600 plus shipping obo. these are the loudest watt for watt ferrite based motors. triple 10'' wide slugs, 1.25'' top plate, tight spl gap. due to the high carbon steel they do rust pretty easily and is why they are stained up. It doesn't affect performance and won't matter once painted I just never got to it. I have lost all interest in loud so these need to go. Don't be afraid to post offers but don't low ball either. Scott Sackett and Fix my speaker can recone these for sure. Other places that have 3'' 4 layer coils might be able to as well. I also have 4 12'' baskets 2 gray, one gloss black and one flat black. any interest in those I will get pictures. These motors fit in the flat rate boxes so shipping is much cheaper than when I bought them. These are in the same condition I bought them in. did 153 on music with 3 on 3k, and 147 on 3k single 12'' both first attempts. any questions feel free to ask. pictures sorry I put wrong price down it was supposed to say 600 not 800

if I can't hit all audible freq flat my stuff comes out and rebuilt

you need the flare on the inside to do any good

that amp will take .5 no problem what I'm confused about is how your sitting one ohm even dcr should be less than 1ohm wired at .5 nominal. take all the subs out and re wire the box making sure the phase is correct on each sub and making sure none of the coils got labeled backwards from the factory

.75 plywood is close to 10 times as stiff as birch is and is acoustically dead. I'll be using it for a build once I find some one to cut to my needs

You would. sure would since I know the dynamic properties of each, it's also well over triple what birch cost

neither mdf or birch is the best If I had to say which was best it would be bamboo

I disagree look at our economy we already bankrupt , we can't AFFORD BEING AT WAR what have we accomplish over there NOTHING , wake up, seriously were about to go for a ride prepare your selfs we have been bankrupt well before the war, so I guess wake up as well? this is the dumbest reply I have ever recive , this is why this fucking county if fuck up , with the mentality you have , don't u see we can't afford war any more, dont you see the cost of living is getting more and more expensive , and for what for an unnecessary pointless war that's just fucking us up and who takes the blow us the taxpayers . lol you mad cause you can't use the war as an excuse why we are in debt? It's not an unnecessary war. People like YOU are the reason why our country is so fucked up

yes I use pvc pipe not ''areo ports''