sully

Nice

check to see if your state allows for exemptions, I have a medical exemption for window tint and have the front windshield tinted as well as the sides and back blacked out. All I did was have my doctor write a letter to the DPS office and a few weeks later I was good to go.

I've got a little over 3 bulk packs in my regular cab but I did pretty much everything in at least 2 layers. 1 layer doesn't always work, the idea is to put enough on to deaden it which can take 2+ layers sometimes.

contact suicidedoors and they will get you set up, probably some SMC valves. I've always run Parker valves but they are a little more money, just personal preference.

Mine gives me that white screen with the hour glass in the middle and shuts off randomly. Never had it loose any data though.

If it is credit card debt then I would recommend contacting them and negotiating lower interest rates. People are defaulting on debts right now and they understand that sometimes you need some help. It is in their best interest to negotiate terms rather than forcing you into bankruptcy. They will at least get the principle back with some interest if they lower your rate rather than getting pennies on the dollar if you declare BK. Most for profit credit relief agencies will do this for you and charge you outrageous fees, you can do it by yourself if you have the patience, it will not happen overnight but you need to stay current on your payments to the best of your ability to show that your are trying to keep up your end of the original agreement. I've been there before, at one point I had almost 20k worth of credit card debt and it took years to catch up but there is an end though it may not feel like it right now.

Hi

that dog is pimp, he was hitting that next to a truck a little bit ago.

larger battery banks require a higher charge to get over the internal resistance of each battery. 15.x volts is ok if you have several batteries to charge but I wouldn't put it on just one. Kinetiks rep said it is fine to charge my battery bank at up to 15.3v but not to exceed 15.5ish or it will start to cook the batteries.

There is no way she slept thru that tattoo, not unless she was baked out of her mind.

either move the piece it is hitting or move the battery to get it in there.

For that price I would buy it in a heart beat, those are some of the most under rated cars on the road. Boost the hell out of it and tear into just about anything out there light to light. I knew a guy with a GSX like that with 30 plus pounds of boost that would hang with bikes off the line. He broke a lot of crap cause he was too cheap to do it all right but it was crazy fast.

you get what you pay for with an alt. if you are dead set on going on the low side look up a rebuild kit for your stock one that bumps it to 150ish and get a small pulley to up the idle current. maybe around 100 to 150 bucks and a little time invested in an OK alternator.

You lost me at "Am I doing this right?" maybe not cause you blew a fuse but I didn't see a question so I'm writing this to see if anyone read this far down. It really doesn't matter to me but if I read all the way thru this topic and saw this I might LOL a little bit because to me this topic was useless from it's inception. Hope I don't offend anyone but I just want it to look like I know what I'm talking about. Hope everyone is having a good day, I'm catching up on the past few weeks of American Chopper that is on my DVR. I wish Paul and Paul Jr would just kiss and make up because the bikes they have been putting out lately are crappy. Great ideas but poor execution on the design side.

Didn't Iraggi start selling 300 plus amp alts that fit that truck? Hit him up and let me know how his new shipping policy works for you. He has a great product but have heard bad things about shipping times but with his new discounted price if he doesn't ship on time i bet you get it right away.

yes, refer to the pics above, he beat me to it. I just took pics of mine on my tahoe if you need more but that is exactly what I was talking about. EDIT: It is raining outside and I just took those pictures and was beaten to the punch. me=fail

GM vehicles have that big ass red boot on the end of the wires going to the battery. You take the bolt out and throw it away, then replace the wire using the new bolts that you have. On the outside of the new bolts a secondary bolt allows you to attach more wires. Put ring terminals on the wires and tighten them down on the new bolt.

then why are you taking the factor connections apart? you just add the wires to the end of that GM post adapter and call it a day. No modification needed. Unless you are replacing the factory wires (i don't recommend this) you just add to it. Take a picture of the problem you are having and post it cause we may not be thinking about the same thing. I've done hundreds of GM's and that adapter has always worked.

do yours have the second bolt that attaches to the end so that you can put ring terminals on the outside of that plastic ring? If not you have the wrong ones and need the ones in the link I sent you. Those will work but it is a PITA.

there are a lot of people looking at this thread and it is kinda strange that nobody told you about this quick fix for your problem. This will work if you are having the problem getting the wires around that big red plastic crap at the battery post. Most install bays keep a stock pile of these cause every chevy needs one.

CLICK ME!!! This is what I am talking about.

how close to Rockwall are you, i could just give you one if you stopped by

you just need a GM long post adapter, get it at an stereo shop. It bolts on to the battery and holds the factory harness and has another nut on the outside that you can attach all your aftermarket wires to.

nice rides. gotta love bagged trucks