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Skater229

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Everything posted by Skater229

  1. Just a little video of the HHR playing. I have not been here in a while and alot has changed, as I will update info and also post pics of the new ride/system https://youtu.be/DiKQd-CMvUI?t=20s
  2. Clean in and clean out is what you want... Setting the gains properly, provided you also know when the headunit clips should give you full CLEAN power out of an amp. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clipping_(audio)
  3. Ok, so this is what I came up with... I took the standard port picture I had and starting plugging numbers in using the xplicitaudio app... Over all size 18w x 12h x 14d with a 1 x 10.5 inch port that is 22 inches long... .79cu @ 38hz My big question is should this design work ok?
  4. Looking for a standard ported box design for a DC Audio m3 8... Will be just a single sub on a Taramps 800hd Thanks in advance...
  5. He has 4ohm as well... might need to e-mail him as just looks like the button is missing...
  6. I think he has a coupon so might even be cheaper... http://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/dc-audio-m2-level-3-15/
  7. oh i know how it is... My old M2 XL's i was able to invert the gasket and was able to fit in the groove of the baffle... But the M3 baskets are a cunt hair bigger and would not fit with the gasket flipped, so they went in normal... and have fun playing with 80 pound monsters, I know my 57 pounders were a pain...
  8. When you flip the ring is hard to set right due to the lip... That is the issue...
  9. Are they going to be recessed in the baffle? or sitting on top? My XL's are recessed so I left the gasket normal, and there is a lip that you have to deal with...
  10. Ahhh, well I am down in Guantanamo Bay on the Navy base... And we don't have stores/stuff like that...
  11. If you can find a local composites supplier they might be able to help you find UV activated resin, though it can get pricey. I'll take it as you didn't read my location...
  12. yea thinking about getting one and using some smoked plexi to use as a cover...
  13. ok, just checking... Will be placing an order shortly... Thanks for the quick answer...
  14. Are these back in stock? just wondering cause the site says something about 'pre-sale' and has not been changed BUT on the other hand it also shows 'in stock'
  15. Are they really in stock as the site says they are? http://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-products/smd-meters/smd-vu-din/smd-vu-din-blue.html Thanks John
  16. Was just thinking it might have been a mix up with people/names and we all have a bad day from time to time... if by "other" Steve Meade you mean Steve Mead in Texas... he is one of the most helpful and friendly people I have met in the car audio scene to date, known him for about 4 years now.
  17. Maybe it was the 'other' Steve Meade? Just a thought... Or maybe he said something to you in the videos and then spoke to the 'other' and was told to FO?
  18. I will do two calculations due to one factor not being said and that would be the nominal system voltage and that plays a major factor when selecting the engine off mode. So I will base off of 13.8v and 12.6v for running vs not First would be to figure out what the system and truck would use as a total amp draw so it would be 300a + 75a = 375a while running. then to convert from amps to wattage 375a X 13.8v = 5175w needed while running. and then to play 1hr on battery alone would be just 300a due to all other power using devices are off and that would be 300a X 12.6v = 3780w needed while truck off to maintain 3780w for one hour you can visit a site like this one listed to calculate the Ah of the battery vs the watts consumed. http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/sports-imports/BatterydrainCalc.html Based on my numbers you would need 760Ah worth of battery storage to play 1hr with truck off. I did tweak the numbers a little on the calculator and used 12.6v X 300a to get 3780w where their calc only used a constant 12v Now seeing that we would need 3780w in reserve and 5175w while driving we can now figure out the charging aspect. With the stock alt able to produce 140a you would need to only come up with 235a to produce enough power for the system to run while driving. But with that being said you will not get 100% output all the time from the alt(s) due to heat and other variables so I would step up to a 300a to provide enough power to run the system and also charge the battery bank. So here are my system plans. oh and the batts are all AGM's not Wet or Gel. Battery bank = 760ah 140a alt + 300a alt (If dual alts can be done) or Battery bank = 760ah Largest alt that will fit in his vehicle. (If dual alts can not be done) Charge the battery bank to make up for the charging system short comings if the biggest alt does not meet the required power to run the system AND charge the bank.
  19. I explained this in my reply earlier that no one is going to rent having to put up more than the rental fee. If I have the money to buy one than why would I not just buy it for $150, than sell it for the going rate of $100-125 and I don't have to worry about how long I have it for? or I can buy a used one for $100-125 use it than sell it for about what I paid for it. the point of renting is to not pay full price just imagine if Redbox charged you $15 to rent a DVD than gave you back the difference of rental fee and payment when you returned the DVD. seriously I hope it works out for you but being someone that has walked this path, i'm just saying. Comparing this to Redbox is not valid... The DVD you get from Redbox cost them less that 25 cents to make. So if you don't return the DVD they are out for the most part nothing, but the Movie theater charges them a licencing fee for every copy they have. With that being said, you rent the DVD for a buck and don't return it they will charge your card for said licencing fee... Where the DD1, CC1, AMM-1 etc cost $100's of bucks EACH The rule of thought is that everyone wants to use one but not to own... I have a DD1 and a CC1, just installed an amp the other day took about 15mins total to set gains and crossover point of the amp... So for 15mins of use that is about $300 in equipment that will not be used again unless I change something in my truck... I would rather be able to spend 20 to 30 bucks to set levels and the remaining 270-280 for other stuff the truck could use... At the same time Cody has to be able to 'protect' his investment and charge full price until he gets the unit back into his hands cause if he didn't then someone could 'own' a DD1, CC1, AMM-1 etc for the simple cost of the rental... If it wasn't for my current location I would rent a AMM-1 to find out how my system is playing... So I think this idea has value to it, and worst case if it flops then he could still sell the 'rented' units as used and recoup most if not all of the investment...
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