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Found 44 results

  1. So i will have a 2000 watt amp running two new 10" KIcker CWR 600 Watt RMS subs. Sense each will be getting around 1000 watt max each sub when really needed. I already have the box and 14 Gauge Speaker wires and all. Anyways apart from that i have a stock 60AMP alt and a crap battery. I'm going to be upgrading with a new battery and Alternator and hook it all with 0 AWG. My question is what battery and what size Alternator should i get? i'm looking at the yellow tops but still i'd like some opinions on what i should go and budget i'd say is around $600. and just for the giggles this system is going in a single cab F-100 Half ton Pickup with the famous bullet proof engine
  2. Selling my LNIB Sundown Audio SAZ-4500D, I have never powered this amp. From the time I received it about 1.5 months ago til now it has been in the box. I only took it out to look it over and take pics. I purchased this amp from Coleman at Audio Technix and he listed it as LNIB so I am doing the same. No scratches on the amp face at all really does look flawless comes with all the bells and whistles you get when you purchase this new from Sundown (except the Decals I cannot seem to locate those right now). Amp will ship via FedEx w/ Insurance and I am asking $925 Shipped (within the U.S. lower 48) if you are outside of that I will get you a shipping quote from FedEx and FedEx ONLY! I do not use any other method of shipping. I am selling because I decided to go a different route and run more power so instead of hooking this up and diminishing the value by scratching it (I'm Clumsy) I will sell it from now. New amp has already been selected not interested in anything else. NO TRADES $925 FIRM
  3. I'm looking for a True 800W RMS amp @ 2 Ohms, This product must be available to buy in the uk for no more than £250 is this possible because I have found amps that say they will push that but probably wont come near 100W please help I cant find no amps that push this in the uk in my price range. Please help
  4. So I have a SoundStorm (SSL) EV4000D. I've had it for about a year and a half, and never have had a problem with it, except that I have blown two Subs with it. The first one was a Pioneer TS-W3002D4 which lasted about 8 months and then the most current one which blew today was a Kicker CompRT12. So i need suggestions of what kind of sub i should get because obviously the last two were a fail. I want something that will thump my price range is up to $250. Hope I can get some feedback.
  5. I have an American Bass VFL 150.1. I have heard that this amp is underrated and will do a ton of power, and I have also heard that this thing will only produce around 2200 watts. I was just wondering if anyone has had actual experience with this amp? Has anyone ever had one clamped or one dyno'd? Thanks for the help!
  6. gmoxley1

    amp help.

    Hey guys ive been looking around for a good amp that puts out around 1200 to 1500 watts. does anyone have any suggestions or recommendations for a good amplifier? thanks
  7. Can you run door speakers off of a mono block amplifier?
  8. Good morning everyone. I'm posting this because I was up until 2am diagnosing a voltage drop problem, after installing my additional battery bank (2 Advanced AutoParts Platinum AGM's, 2 in rear, 1 up front). After installing the bank, I went from 13.8 volts at idle, to 13.4. I was scratching my head saying WTF??? Now, my voltage drop steadied out drastically, but I still lost a critical .4 volts somewhere. I want it back! What happened??? Well, I checked all my grounds in the rear. One from negative battery post of one battery straight to amp. Another from same negative battery post to chassis. All good! Move to the front of my car to check what I thought was my Big 3, or 4 in my case. Checked the Chassis to Negative battery post, Good. Checked Alt to Bat Positive, Good. Checked Alt casing to battery negative, Good. I thought this would suffice as an Engine to Chassis ground, as it was tied into the same ground wire that came from my chassis. MAN WAS I WRONG!!!! I FINALLY located the braided wire that went from the top of my engine block to the chassis. I added a 12" piece of 1/0 OFC from engine block ground, straight to the strut tower. BAM!!! SOCK!!! BOOM!!! (Remember the old Batman episodes? Some may be to young to remember. Anyway, off point now. Damn ADHD!), my voltage immediately came up from 13.45 to 13.9! I gained .45 volts with the addition of that one wire! HELL TO THE YEAH!!!! Now, I will be adding a second ground in the rear from the second battery in the bank, to the chassis. That battery has no grounds coming off it, so I will give it a dedicated ground as well. Maybe I can gain another 1/10th or .2 and finally get my voltage over 14? I will be back later to confirm my results... Just thought I would post this to reiterate the IMPORTANCE of proper grounding. Everyone, myself included, is always concerned about POWER POWER POWER, while proper grounding always takes a backseat in our heads. At least it does in mine, and I am being brutally honest right now. I have now learned that your grounds are just as, if not more important than the actual positive runs in the car. I can't stress enough how important is to ground properly people. If this helps at least one person out there, then I'm glad I took the time to post this. Good luck out there!
  9. So today I started having issues with my 4 channel amp. At high volumes the amp cuts out on goes into power protect mode. What's weird though is that it only does it in really heavy bass. Yesterday I retuned my sub amp to get more power to my sub but my system was fine for all of yesterday and most of today. Only the 4 channel cuts out under heavy bass. My sub keeps playing like everything's normal. The share a single power wire from the front that splits in the rear and a single ground that's in the rear and splits in the rear. I took all the wiring off the amp and put it back on and checked all the power and ground connects and those were good. The voltage is holding steady at 14.4 and all 4 speaker were about 3.8 ohms. The system is in a 2001 Honda civic and the equipment is as follows: Mechman 240A Alternator XS Power 5100 Hifonics Brutus 1616.4 4 Rockford Fosgate T1650 Hifonics Brutus 3016.1 Sundown Zv4 15" I'm completely lost. Any help would be amazing
  10. Supplies: 1 mono block Amp 4 dual 4 ohm subs Ok You Know How A Mono Amp Goes ++-- I was wondering if I got 2 subs and wired them to 1 ohm and connect them to one neg and one pos then do the other 2 the same way and connect them to the other pos and neg on the same amp will that work to have 4 subs in one box
  11. I have 2 12" Alpine Type R subs, they are dual 4 ohm subs rated at 1000 RMS each and right now have them on a cheap amp and they need more power. What kind of amp should I get that fits them the best? I see on most amps they say they are like 3k but they end up putting out about half that when they are tested, I need an amp that will give me true power. They will be put into a sub box I am building now that will be tuned to 33 hz. Let me know what would fit them the best.
  12. I just built a new box and bought another Powerbass 3XL 152D (Not the new black/grey style). Have been running a Hifonics BRZ1700.1D on the one and have had pretty good luck. I figure the BRZ is giving the sub between 1300-1500RMS after rise, on 14v constant. However, I am seriously doubting this amp will power these subs, even at .5ohm so I am going to need a new amp after I break the new sub in. Looking at the Lanzar OPTI2601D. Have heard a lot of good things from people, but pretty much just things like "they power my subs nice", etc. What I am wondering is, will the amp actually do the rated 2600RMS @.5 like they claim? I do know the 2000D will do a little over rated, they actually clamp tested that one. Would like around 1200RMS CLEAN power to each sub, without throwing my wallet out in the window lol. Needs to be a .5 or 2ohm load, so the 2601 fits the bill. So hopefully good news on the OPTI, but tell it like it is guys! Thanks!
  13. So I have a Soundstream tx1.1300d hooked up to 2 Fosgate HX2 12's. I have been really happy with the amp and it is really a powerful and clean amp when it works. My problem is that the amp goes to protect on specific songs, ones that play higher bass notes like 55Hz and above usually or have a wide range of frequencies played in the song. It will push super hard on the lows with out any issue. It also plays hard with higher notes but only for a few seconds until it protects. It only does that when I have it turned up 75% or better but it is annoying when I do demos and such. I have adjusted the amp many times with different volumes on the head unit and it still does the same thing every time no matter what I do. Also for some odd reason, this never happened until I upgraded to a High Output alternator and "Big 3" that keeps the voltage at 14.3 when the bass is cranked. I really don't know why a better alternator would cause the amp to protect but its just something I noticed. Any ideas? I have the subs in a 4th order wired down to a final impedance of 1.2 ohms resting so my impedance is fine I think, unless box rise has anything to do with it but it was never a problem before the alternator upgrade. So if anyone knows what could be the problem that would be great!
  14. I'm looking for an amp that will push 2 of the new kicker CompR's that are rated at 600rms each. Ill need a 1,200-1,500 watt amp. I'm not fully educated on running at one ohm but if someone wants to educate me and persuade me to buy theirs then go for it ! Thanks !
  15. My Crescendo amp came in today and had this Crunch laying around so i decided to see what is the difference between 2000 watts max and 2000 watts rms. I guess you can kinda tell the difference lol Crescendo BC2000D and Crunch P1-2000.1 [url=http://s1349.photobucket.com/user/Gguerra33/media/20130913_160240_zpsf95a8039.jpg.html]
  16. My friend recently bought an Orion HCCA 15" sub and Orion amp, and let me borrow his old setup until I buy mine in a week or so. It was a Sony Xplod 12" with a pioneer amp rated at 760 watt max. So its a very weak setup. I had it installed in my 2005 altima, and the inline fuse kept blowing, and the tech guys kept putting stronger fuses in. Eventually the power wire (4 gauge) MELTED into. I know this amp/sub were in good working order, because they were working fine in my friends truck until the day I had them installed in my altima. The installers put a "line output converter" behind my stock Bose head unit. The RCA cables, 4 gauge power wire, l and remote wire were ran from the front of the car to the trunk. The Ground wire was bolted to the frame in the trunk. I cant figure out what happend to cause the power wire to melt. Any thoughts?
  17. Hello! since I am waiting for the ct sound 1400.1 amps to get restocked I found A jbl pbx2200.1 used for 300$ which should put out 2.4krms 4ohm! Which by my understanding should need less ampers due to --> p=v*i r=v/i, v is constant so the current will be lower than if it was 1 ohm. Ct sound 1400.1 will cost me 600$ because of import taxes and the jbl will cost 300$, is it worth to buy that old amp or should I just buy a brand new ct to power the Fi Q 12" fully loaded? Thank you for your help. Ps. This is not to a vs thread, the idea is to help me decide how to invest my money and if it's worth to buy the jbl amp.
  18. Well, I'm about to start the rebuild on my blazer and have just about everything together, but one thing I REALLY need help with is a box design and an amp rack/mount that will fit in the back of my car. Any and All help is appreciated. Here are the specs: Subs: 2 Skar VVX-12 D4 (http://cart.skaraudio.com/skar-audio-vvx-12-subwoofer/) Sub Amp: Crescendo BC2000D (16"L x 2.75"H x 9.5"W) Mid/High Amps: (2) MB Quart ONX4.125 (20"L x 9"W x 2-1/2"H) EACH Battery for rear: XS D1200 (6-9/16”D x 7-13/16”W x 6-3/4”H) Box Type: Ported, wanting tuned around 28-32, but open to suggestions. Aimed at SPL Chevy Blazer 4D, Base of seat to hatch/tailgate: 36" Top of seat to hatch/tailgate 33" (These two, I'm sure you already know, but this will be right up against the tailgate/back wall, as in less than an inch or inch and half of room between the box and back. Port needs to have room to breathe) Height to top of seat: 16" (I know its low, but gotta keep it here to be able to see out the rear, and for competition reasons) Height to window line: 16.5" Wheel well to wheel well: 37.5" **I know it may make things a little more complicated, but I need all of the amps/battery to also be under the 16" height if possible, and on the side of the box closest to the front of the car, and some of my wires will not reach to the back.** Like I said, ANY help is appreciated, and I will definitely send the person whose design I pick a little something something.
  19. Hey Guys, I have an 08 F150 Supercrew with a 110A alternator. I recently built a new box for a Soundqubed HDS312-D4 and it is running on a Power Acoustic A2400DB at the moment. I want to get my sub a more worthy amp and have decided on the Q1-2200D, That will match the subs 1200wrms and still allow for an upgrade later on if I decide I need more. My question is what electrical upgrades do I need to do before getting the amp? This will be my first system since the early nineties that will require any electrical upgrades and I have no clue where to start. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
  20. Hey guys, i am new to car audio. I have one dual 4 ohm voice coils Kicker CVR 12 that i am looking for an amp for. The sub is rated at 400 watts RMS and 800 watts Peak, i currently have a planet audio 1500.1 mono block amp. (just not what im looking for) If anyone could help me pick out an amp that would be great. If i could i would like it to be under $200 dollars. Thank you for your time.
  21. I am thinking about getting 2 dual 15" kicker L7's and they are rated for 1000rms a piece and are 2omhs and I have a high output alt rated for 200amp and a brand new high cell deep cell battery so the lights don't dim I will be changing the big 3 out soon and I just need help finding the right amp for these subs so the subs arnt lacking power nor the amp is working to hard all the time please help...
  22. Well...here is my build for my 06 Pontiac Solstice. Misc Mods: Dual Air Intake Big Bore Throttle Body Hi-Flow Headers Custom Exhaust Lowered Painted Aftermarket Rims Smoked Tails Custom Made Projector Headlights and Foglights (Two-Toned to match car) Custom F430 bumps Custom Side Vents Custom rear Valence Painted Misc Parts on Car to match theme Interior Audio: Alpine DVD Headunit Dual Infinity Kappa 6.5" Components in Custom made Pods (Arc Audio Tweeters and Crossovers) Infinity Kappa 12" Woofer in Custome made Fiberglass Box behind Passenger Seat 4 Channel Arc Audio KS Amp - 90 x 4 Mono block Arc Audio KS Amp - 600 x 1 Amps in a small amp rack in the rear boot area
  23. Hey guys I want to upgrade the Mids and Highs in my car from the current stock ones. I have a Rockford Fosgate P3S Shallow, a Rockford Fosgate P300 amp hooked up to a Alpine CDA-9887R Head Unit. What Mids and Highs would you guys recommend and what amp would you say to go with it?
  24. I got 2 dc audio level 4 15" subs and I'm looking for a amp that can handle them. I'm looking for an amp that's 5000 watts true power.
  25. So I have finally figured out my problem! Even though my amps are shitty I knew something wasn't right... So my power cable I have One fuse in the hood like normal. Going under my carpet and to ANOTHER FUSE BLOCK. TWO 30 amp fuses. I took the fuse block out and just dasiy chained my power to the other amp (highs and mids) and the difference was AMAZING. I also doubled my ground wire. Please when you are using a fuse other than under your hood beware (unless your amp does not have a fuse). I will take pictures and post.
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