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Hello, all looking for some advice on a setup going in a project car 1998 Mitsubishi 3000gt hatchback. Pioneer Avh x4800bs Hu - internal amp (14 watts RMS CEA-2006/50 peak x 4 channels) Pioneer DM 9705 - 5 Ch class D Continuous Power (RMS) Output at 4 Ohms75W x 4 (Main channel) Continuous Power (RMS) Output at 2 Ohms100W x 4 (Main channel), 600W x 1 (Subwoofer channel) RF P3D4 12 - 600 watts rms at 2 Ohms going in this enclosure above gonna add another later on with another amp. Using all Knukonceptz ofc power ground speaker wire & rcas. Already have these above looking at replacing the 6x9s & the 6.5s. Factory area for the 6x9 has a port never seen this Budget is for replacing these is $300-$500 Been thinking about maybe putting in 1 set of 5.25 comp or 6.5 comp upfront 6x9 or 5.25 in rear side panels. looking at Cerwin Vega stroker pro cvmpcl6.5 RF pro pps4-6.5 Alpine R

Hey everybody, so I'm looking for a set of some 5 1/4". I'd like to run them active so comps would be nice but if anybody has had some experience with some coax's that sounded good i'm tuned in. I currently don't have a 4-chan so I'll base my decision off of what speakers I run. Budget is around 150 for a set. Here are some comps i've been looking at. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9112_Polk-Audio-db5251-5-1-4-2-way-Component-System.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_26473_DLS-X-Program-X-SD52.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18912_Infinity-Reference-5030cs.html My aunts' truck has the upgraded infinty system & it sounds real nice, although I don't believe these are the exact speakers they used. http://www.woofersetc.com/p-5241-spr-13s-alpine-525-2-way-300-watt-component-speaker-system.aspx If you have had any experience with any set that has been talked about let me know. Thanks in advance for any input.

Hey errrrrbody. I am very close to locally purchasing a ZX350.4 for my first mids & highs amp for a great price in my city up here in Canada. the reason the deal is good is because the amp is supposedly not working properly. What the seller has said in his ad, and as well as through text messages is that it "Works great but won't turn off. The technician said the FAT must have been fried (whatever that means) other than that it still works." and.. "it turns on the moment you hook it up to the battery but it won't shut off even with the car turned off. It was bought brand new but I just shorted it when I installed it." Has anyone ever dealt with a problem like this? Is it repairable? I personal had my bass amp repaired at some circuit board repair company in town so that may be an option for me as well. Please advise!!!

Im goin to fiberglass my doors, going to do two american bass sq8 and 6 aqmerican bass vfl 65mr, i was wondering if anyone knew what brand or web cite i should get my materials from and how much. .75oz fiberglass matt, fiberglass reson, and bondo also any perticular random orbital sander? any info will help thanks

Planning to add a crescendo c1100.4 when I start my build and wanting to run some rockfod pps 6.5s. My questions is should I get the 4 or 8 ohm versions? They are 100 watts rms and the c1100.4 does 180 watts at 4 ohms. I know I don't need to over power the mids but would I get enough power at 8 ohms?

hello. As I am fairly new to the installation aspect of car audio and this is my 1st large scale build I have tons of questions. Thought I would bring it to you guys since everyone on here seems to have an opinion about things maybe you can help me. Ok. My question is. My original set up had a jl 1000 1 pushing my 13tw5s. In my new set up I'm using a dc 5k for my subs. Would it be possible for me to use my 1000 1 jl amp to push my crescendo mp6. I'm using 3 sets. 2 in the doors and 1 in the kick. I will be purchasing the new crescendo tweets that drop next month. Please everyone that reads this give your opinion. Thanks fellow slump dogs. I'm out