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Found 16 results

  1. Iv never had any amp that needed anything higher than a 500a fuse. The amp will be getting says it recommends a 900A fuse, i found some 800A ones but are like 100 dollars each lol. If the amp says 900A fuse, how do i go about doing that? Am i gonna have to use double fuse blocks with x2 450A? Or is running a 350A fuse on each 1/0 run good enough since it will be pulling power from multiple lines?(1/0 at 20-25 feet is like 350A) Im guessing i wanna use fuses for the size of wire im using and not really the amp? So 500A fuses on each 1/0 line should be just fine, but what about the 1/0 runs from the bats in the back to the amp?
  2. I need help. I bought 2 Sundown 10s E series V3, and a Rockville 6000W / 1500W RMS amp. I'd like to put both subs in my truck behind the rear seat. Ported if possible. If only one sub is needed I'll sell the other one. I'd like low bass. Behind my seat there's 60" across the back. 8" deep at the bottom. I'd like to go 20" tall. (Wedge box) who can help me with port size/type. The sub requires 1.2 cubes tuned at 32-34hz ported. I'll build it if you post it. Thanks for the help.
  3. wondering if anyone knows of a fuse holder that accepts 2 1/0 in and 2 1/0 out???? and where to get cheap fuse holders for 1/0 I wouldn't mind having the mounting as ring terminals my current set up uses them im just putting another run of 1/0 so I need to upgrade
  4. I have a stock battery up front in the engine compartment and a CRESCENDO LOGIC F-31HP AGM POWERCELL in the back. I will eventually replace the stock alternator with a high output alternator either mechman or dc power but which ever one would be about 250A max; idling around 180-200A. I was planning on running one run of 1/0 from the battery up front to the battery in the back (+ to + and - to -). But after doing some looking and reading around, I feel like I'm on the edge of the 1/0 amperage capacity. Or am I reading the chart or thinking about this all wrong? The length of the run will be somewhere between 12'-20'. I know, it is a big range, but I'm trying to play it safe by overestimating. QUESTION: Am I safe with the one run of 1/0 or should I have another positive to positive 1/0 wire or also a wire from the back battery negative to the chassis also or one 2/0 wire, or what? I want to hear everyone's thoughts and suggestions! Oh, and what size of fuses (2 of them; one close to each battery, right?) should I get for the positive wire?
  5. Hey guys, so here's the run down: I've got a Soundqubed 1200 pushing two Sundown SA-12's @1ohm. I've been having issues recently, and I'm looking for someone more experienced to tell me where to start looking for problems with the setup. 1. When I installed the amp, plugging in both RCA's put the amp in protect. I didn't have time to open the head unit (it's my stock Ford head unit) and my old amplifiers a JL Slash 500/1 and then an Alpine 500W both had no problem with the RCA connections. This amp seemed to. 2. My voltages are rock solid at 14.4v because of my 120A alternator, so it's most likely not that. 3. I've been running just one RCA input and that works fine as far as I can tell. The amp loses power under heavy load at random intervals. It does NOT go into protect, just shuts off. Pulling the inline 120A fuse from the 4 gauge going to the amp and placing it back in will turn the amp back on, until it decides to shut off again. I almost always have to pull the fuse or let it sit a long time to get it to turn back on. The protection light does not turn on. 4. I originally had an 80A fuse in but after doing the math I upgraded to a 100A because the current I want to be passing through should be fine on 100A. Figuring the amp was putting out more than rated (haven't tested this) I grabbed a 120A fuse to match the 3x40A fuse setup on the amp itself. None of these fuses actually LOOK blown though. And I don't think they are, so that leads me to believe it's something else. 5. Everything plays completely clean before it shuts off. Where should I start looking for problems? Any help is appreciated, thanks guys.
  6. Hey guys, this is the setup: Stock alt ~100-120amp 14-14.2v stock battery 4gauge from the battery to the rear Pioneer gmd-8601 @ 2ohms(500w rms Class D) 2x kenwood kfc-w3013 2x40amp fuses on unit 2x stock speakers & tweets in the front 2xJVC 6x9's in the rear Alpine MPR-F250 4x4ohms(4x50w rms Class AB) 2x15 amp fuses on unit sony xav63 deck with RCA's to the rear Boss audio CPR3.5 3.5Farrad cap Anyway today i was bumping my setup which has been running fine for awhile and all of a sudden the fuse popped (60amp next to battery). Im wondering what you guys advise as im interested in a self-resetting circuit breaker however if the breaker cuts and the cap discharges then when the breaker trys to kick back in there will be a current surge causing it to kick out again? Im also wondering if i should just chuck a bigger fuse(say 90A) in there. Let me know what you guys think. -Alex
  7. Is it better to use a suitable size fuse and replace when needed or buy a circuit breaker that switches of during over a voltage spike ??
  8. I've read through a bunch of related posts, but I can't seem to find a clear-cut answer. What size of fuse do I need at each end of the 1/0 wire connecting the starter battery to my supplemental battery in the trunk (positive to positive)? More details: - Running ~2000W RMS for audio system, but only 1600W is running off of the supplemental battery; the other 400W is running off of the starter. - Stock starter battery; CRESCENDO LOGIC F-31HP AGM POWERCELL; stock alternator (but planing on getting a 270 alternator from DC) - 2007 Ford Fusion - The run (+ to +) is 20ft long (running underneath car [all proper precautions have been taken to protect the wire]) of NVX XW0BL20 (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_46862_NVX-XW0BL20.html) I am guessing I will need a 150A fuse near each battery for the run... but I don't know for sure..... and I want to know for sure. Even if I'd guess correctly I'd be forever paranoid of the day that my fire catches on fire or something horrible.... SO, what size of fuse do I need????
  9. Guys, I recently posted about installing a new Head Unit in my girlfriends Santa Fe. BTW ( super challenging install for a double DIN) Pioneer AVH-2400bt. Bangin' Head unit but super hard to install ( also without soldering iron). So s i was installing i noticed everything still worked fine in the form of stock functions (minus steering wheel controls) then i tried connecting steering wheel controls without knowing what i was doing and seemed to have broken the interior lights. LED's backing the gauge cluster, shifter, and on the A/c panel now do not work. From the many wiring diagrams i have read there are two identified wires going into the stock harness. I had the appropriate orange and black wire attached to the dimmer function on my Head unit. The yellow wire supplies power to the "illumination" the yellow wire is labeled "illumination (+), the third unidentified but guessable wire is the small black wire, not the wire to chassis ground. there are other wires in there that i did mess with but these stuck out to me for a couple of reasons. One is that when I went to wire the steering wheel controls i forgot that the small yellow wire was Illumination (+) and hooked it up to the black wire (assumed illumination (-) wire) and at this point, im guessing, i made the error. Most of the time the dimmer wire was connected, and i seem to remember one time i was testing the HU and the interior lights still working. They seemed to have stopped working when i started messing with steering wheel controls and wired the yellow to black. So my guess is that i may have shorted the lights inside and blown a fuse. Problem: I went and took a while and studied the fuses and the car owners manual and started checking for blown fuses. None of them appeared to be blackened/ blown at all. Although, i actually only pulled two hypothesized fuses out and checked them. They weren't blown. What do i do?! The car is literally almost un-driveable at night because there's no light on the gauges so you can't see how fast you are going. PLEASE help or at least maybe a similar problem?
  10. So my Battery is in the back of my Cobalt, and the power wire runs maybe 6 feet (more like 3 if I end up moving the amp to the rear of the box). I have a Hifonics Brutus 1700.1d (running at 1ohm-1700w) and 2 SA-12's. Will the current 4AWG Rockford Fosgate wiring I have be enough? Also, what do you guys recommend for fuse size? (The site recommends 160a, would 150a be ok?) Please no flat "Just go 0 AWG bro" I believe the amplifier only has input for 2ga. If I need to upgrade, what would I fuse the 2ga for and WHAT brand of 2gauge? (since I was having a hard time finding decent 2AWG on Amazon). Thanks for the help links are always helpful
  11. STEPPING IT UP A NOTCH And I Need Your help ? - I Recently installed dual 0ga runs for my bc3500d crescendo and have a few questions about my next setup. 1st. what size fuses should i use for under the hood since theres 2 runs? 2nd should i fuse after my second battery ? if so what size on those ? i will be getting a new secondary battery (old one gave out) what would be a recommended battery for this amp? 3rd I'm planning on upgrading my alt, i was looking at the 320 amp mechman what you guys think? And Last (i Sold my 2 12s Crossfire c7s, thinking of getting 2 15s ) what subs would you guys recommend for this setup ? Btw All of this is going in a tahoe. Thanks in advance ?
  12. Here is my current setup, I am new here so if I miss anything please let me know. The vehicle is a 03 Ford Explorer Sport(not sport trac) Head unit is a Kenwood KDC-X896 Front speakers are Focal 165 A1SG components Rear speakers are Focal 1656 CA1SG coaxials 4-Channel Amp is a JL Slash 300/4v2 I used a Stinger 4 AWG wiring kit (SK6241) and their mid level RCA's to connect the amp, making sure to put an inline fuse about 8 inches away from the battery. The system has run great for the past year and a half until yesterday. While driving on the highway with the volume set to 27(75%) the sound cut out randomly. It came back on about 3 seconds later and played for a minute and cut off again, this time taking around 10 seconds before turning back on. Eventually it got to where I would only get a flicker of audio and it would be off most of the time. I checked out the amp and saw the green power LED would come on an off every 3 seconds. When metered, I saw it start at 14v with the green LED on, then drop to 8v in a matter of seconds with the LED turning off under 10v. The voltage would then raise back up to 13.5v or so and repeat. When I checked the fuse under the hood I found this. The melted end had the wire coming in from the battery I also noticed there are circle marks on the sides of the fuse holder if that means anything What I can't figure out is what caused this and why the fuse didn't pop. If anyone here has any ideas fire away
  13. I need some help as I am installing some stuff into my 2012 Mazda 6 i sport. I have a double din, and 2 amps. The issue is I had 2 renegade amps installed and only needed to run a true 4awg wire to a block and then to the 2 amps. well those were not cutting it so i went and got a MB quart 800.4 for my door speakers and a Rockford T1500dbCP amp going to a JL audio 13w7 sub. My big issue is my alternator puts out only 90 amps and i cant find a single place that will sell a HO alternator that is a drop fit into my mazda 6 and I didnt want to have to mod anything to get it to fit. Can I keep the same stock alternator if I did the Big 3, and got a spare battery for the trunk? I am only asking this because I would figure from what I have read that the Big 3 and battery would be the very very minimum Ill need to push both new amps i have now, specially because i seen people saying they should have a battery for an RF 1500bdCP only and i have that plus the MB Quart 800.4 and a double din HU. I would ask about a cap but from what i have read that wont help much anyways because they that just puts even more of a drain on my alternator when I cant upgrade that anyway(dont really want to unless I have too and have no choice). here is what I was thinking about buying to try but figured i would ask first and buy once.... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74888_XS-Power-XP750-CK.html and this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_86030_Belva-BBG3KT.html Thanks for the help in advance, its much appreciated.
  14. Hey guys, So I have a subwoofer amp in thats fused at the battery with a 150amp anl fuse. Im going to install an amp for my doors and this amp needs an 80 amp fuse. If I buy a non fused distro block to split the one power wire from the battery, what size fuse would I need up at the battery? Thanks! -Andy-
  15. So Im in the middle of my build, and I'm about to fuse my triple-input power/ground amp. Each 0 gauge power wire will have an inline fuse, 200A X 3= 600A total. What IF one of those fuses blew out while playing music, but the other 2 fuse are still fine. This means power is still running through the amplifier with an insufficient power supply.. only 2 inputs instead of 3 are working. Wouldn't I might burn my amp to crisp?? The manual is showing a different fused-power circuit than just an inline fuse to each +ve input. May be i'm confused!! Help me out guys.
  16. Good day SMD community, About to undertake electrical wiring upgrade on my 2017 F-150 3.5L EcoBoost XLT. Alternator is not super accessible so I'm thinking this may be tricky and wondering if anyone else has done big 3 on a 2015 up f-150 and can provide some direction. Pics and tricks for this specific vehicle would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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