Jump to content
Second Skin Audio

Building my 2nd box ever, simple question


Trâgîk

Recommended Posts

I might post some pics of the build process at some point here but i was curious, after i cut and sand and do the prep work to get it ready to put together, do you guys wipe the mdf off with anything to get all the dust off?? Or just use a dry rag or vacuum? I plan on putting fiberglass resin inside also to seal and smooth everything. I sanded everything with 400 grit already so its pretty smooth as is but how do u clean it?

I know it sounds like a dumb question but i wasnt sure

-----SELLING EVERYTHING----

2 DC sound labs 3.5k's (still avail)

2 HDC312A D1's (still avail)

5 XS Power Batteries (1 d3400 and 1 d1200 left)

4 runs of knukoncepz 0 gauge (have all the wire still)

DC power 270XP alt (sold)

RF T1 6.5 components (both sold)

Powerbass XAX 4160 (still avail)

Custom built box 4.75^3 tuned 34hz (still avail)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nevermind. Lol. Was a dumb question cuz i forgot all the glue is gonna have to be removed after its put together. Ima post some pictures to show some progress

-----SELLING EVERYTHING----

2 DC sound labs 3.5k's (still avail)

2 HDC312A D1's (still avail)

5 XS Power Batteries (1 d3400 and 1 d1200 left)

4 runs of knukoncepz 0 gauge (have all the wire still)

DC power 270XP alt (sold)

RF T1 6.5 components (both sold)

Powerbass XAX 4160 (still avail)

Custom built box 4.75^3 tuned 34hz (still avail)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok so im going to post the progress of my box, so if anybody has any tips or advice let me know.. im doing my baffle in two seperate pieces because i used part of my old box that i made and it didnt come out how i wanted too so this time im taking my time and trying to make it right..when it gets nicer out i might try and go for a partial wall or something but this is what im goin with now..its going in the trunk, external dimensions are 35w x 15.5h x 25.5 deep with a double baffle, internal volume after bracing,corner, and disp is 4.75 with i think it was 15 something inches of port per cubic ft..5" wide port too, tuned to 34HZ... thats what i think it was because i drew the plans and stuff over a month ago so i cant remember exaclty but i used winsid and some other programs.. well heres the pics:

Picture080.jpg

Picture078.jpg

Picture083.jpg

not glued yet but just to show placement

Picture088.jpg

Picture087.jpg

Picture089.jpg

Picture090.jpg

Picture091.jpg

Picture092.jpg

Picture094.jpg

Picture095.jpg

Picture098.jpg

Picture096.jpg

Picture099.jpg

ok well thats where i got to today...i dont have clamps so im pre-drilling holes and using screws but i plan on taking some out and filling the holes because some the screws didnt set all the way in, i didnt want to split the wood, but what you think so far?

-----SELLING EVERYTHING----

2 DC sound labs 3.5k's (still avail)

2 HDC312A D1's (still avail)

5 XS Power Batteries (1 d3400 and 1 d1200 left)

4 runs of knukoncepz 0 gauge (have all the wire still)

DC power 270XP alt (sold)

RF T1 6.5 components (both sold)

Powerbass XAX 4160 (still avail)

Custom built box 4.75^3 tuned 34hz (still avail)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It looks pretty good so far, you really don't have to sand the wood edges before putting them together unless you use a circular saw and end up with some high and low spots.

Current Systems:

2011 BMW 335i

Hertz HDP1

DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber

2002 Acura Tl
Kenwood DNX9980HD
2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 Coils
DC 3.5k
Hertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 Rear
Hertz HDP4 Amp
DC Power Engineering 260 Amp Alt
Big 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0
XS Power D2400 Up Front

i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch...

going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box...

Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth.

A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It looks pretty good so far, you really don't have to sand the wood edges before putting them together unless you use a circular saw and end up with some high and low spots.

Yeah i forgot about that. I have a question,seeing as im fiberglassing the inside, do i still need to silicone the inside edges? And if so, i do it before figerglassing right? I wasnt sure if the resin would stick to it..

-----SELLING EVERYTHING----

2 DC sound labs 3.5k's (still avail)

2 HDC312A D1's (still avail)

5 XS Power Batteries (1 d3400 and 1 d1200 left)

4 runs of knukoncepz 0 gauge (have all the wire still)

DC power 270XP alt (sold)

RF T1 6.5 components (both sold)

Powerbass XAX 4160 (still avail)

Custom built box 4.75^3 tuned 34hz (still avail)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It depends if you're going to do glassing through the corners. Its all about making it as air tight as possible. I'd say go ahead and fiberglass and resin the whole box and let it dry, then take a compressor with a spray nozzle attachment, set it to about 100psi and run it around all the edges of the box, if air comes through find out where it's coming from and add some silicone to there, or more mat and resin. Just my 2c though.

Current Systems:

2011 BMW 335i

Hertz HDP1

DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber

2002 Acura Tl
Kenwood DNX9980HD
2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 Coils
DC 3.5k
Hertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 Rear
Hertz HDP4 Amp
DC Power Engineering 260 Amp Alt
Big 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0
XS Power D2400 Up Front

i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch...

going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box...

Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth.

A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It depends if you're going to do glassing through the corners. Its all about making it as air tight as possible. I'd say go ahead and fiberglass and resin the whole box and let it dry, then take a compressor with a spray nozzle attachment, set it to about 100psi and run it around all the edges of the box, if air comes through find out where it's coming from and add some silicone to there, or more mat and resin. Just my 2c though.

Ok so it would make sense to just use all fiberglass and forget about the silicone all together. Yeah my main goal is to have it as air tight as possible onviously

-----SELLING EVERYTHING----

2 DC sound labs 3.5k's (still avail)

2 HDC312A D1's (still avail)

5 XS Power Batteries (1 d3400 and 1 d1200 left)

4 runs of knukoncepz 0 gauge (have all the wire still)

DC power 270XP alt (sold)

RF T1 6.5 components (both sold)

Powerbass XAX 4160 (still avail)

Custom built box 4.75^3 tuned 34hz (still avail)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your box looks good, nice job. resin will not stick to silicone at all, it will soak in and bond to mdf very well though you dont need to sand it so fine, but should be alright.I owen a fiber glass shop we sand every thing else with 80 to 24 grit, but on mdf the resin will soak in just keep that in mind

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ive been building boxes for 2 years and i dont have a box for myself that looks this nice lol... looks like this summers build needs to get started.

24pm3xe.jpg

im taking out my passenger seat, battery is disconnected, going to unwire and take out the three amps, take out the 70+ lb box, then the platform so i can crimp 1 wire.

Almost as bad as those fegs that put those horns in their grills and roll down the street distorting the block....

1990 Jeep Cherokee 2 Dr.

Big-3 in 0g on Stock Alt.

Pioneer 6.5" and 5.25"s temp. until i can afford the new crescendos.

Pioneer 6000ub Reciever

NO amps at the moment. SA-15 on 1kw coming soon.

MSG Me for a free enclosure design!!

Flared port kits coming soon!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...