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My Civic Build 2 Fi 15" Bl's On 2 Sundown Saz 1500d's


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Man..Warm up weather I need to get outside and Fiberglass..Can't really do anything when it is freakin 34 degrees in Mississippi..I need at least 60 degrees..Come on warm up..Jeez..I bought all I need to glass the seams. My man was suppose to work on my amp this weekend. Hopefully it will be done by Monday or Tuesday..FINGERS CROSSED>>TOES TOO>>

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Is your box still in the car? if it is, turn on your heater in the car and warm that bitch up. :D

Looks good btw. If you go the duplicolor bedliner route buy twice as many cans as you need, it needs 2-3 coats to get a texture to it.

2009 spring fling-iasca-rookie 1-Champion. 139.4db.

"I don't do enough, I just fool around

Ya'll can go to hell, how does that sound"~ Tech N9NE

4 15" Memphis. and 1 Big ass box. <-Sold to fund more power.

Kicker l5s

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or even fleckstone would look pimp.

ITS FLECKSTONE!? GAAAAAAAAAD

Nismo told me it was flextone or something, I've been searching for it for a week now.

1986 C20 Suburban

9 American Bass XFL 15's

B2 M1MKII

14v XS Power Batteries

Maxwell Caps

Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not

you havent lived until you've hit a screw with a router.

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Guest Nismofreak

nismo doesnt remember anything! i told him fleckstone just like i posted on here!

Fiberglass that inside already zax! use heat lamps

It was flexstone and I remembered correctly. Got it at home depot in the paint isle
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Update. Got an email from a guy that lives in Vicksburg, Mississippi and he has a Line x business..He quoted me a price to Line x my box for 100-150 bucks...That is the box and the panels..Is that a good price??? Also I got an update on my amp..Found the problem out this is what is wrong with it..

"This problem is not a "soft on/off" problem at all. What is happening is the drive signal to the output FETs from the driver board is not working properly.

There are 8 groups of output FETs in your amp. IRF640 (N-channel mosfet) and IRF9640 (P-channel mosfet). There are four groups of each.

2 of the 4 groups of IRF9640 are not always getting a regular drive signal (looks like a modulated square wave on the O-Scope). It comes and goes, becomes irregular. 99% of the time it is irregular, it should never be irregular. So your amp is only partially functional, reduced power, reduced sound quality, and because of the way class D amps work, when it powers on, the 2 groups of IRF9640 that are not receiving the proper drive signal are not "sync'd" with the rest of the outputs, and therefore you get a sound from the amp, that resembles a "pop".

I tried for 1.5 hours to find a bad transistor on the driver board, because that would be the normal cause of this problem, but no luck, they are all good. It appears that they are not receiving the proper drive signal from one of the pins of a particular IC. That IC has been defaced by the manufacturer of the driver board, so there are no numbers on the chip, it cannot be identified. However I know what they are and have ordered some."

Hopefully it will be fixed soon..Also I hooked up my subs today like they will be hooked up in the car and used my DMM to see what all the coils come out to be wired together the way I want them run..They come out to be .7 ohms...I hope my amp will take .7 ohms....I am preety sure it will...Damn you guys got a point about the heat lamps. I have heat lamps in my bathrooms..I could probably just use one of those lamps in my drop light and hang it inside the box..That should warm it up fast..You guys have all the answers...

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