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Yupp definitely some good advice here. By the way it uses a timing belt not timing chain. Timing chains never need to be serviced and don't stretch.60k is the longest I would go on your engine. Regardless of if it is the problem replace it. If you have never done mild engine take it to a shop. It is not worth the effort to learn on such a delicate engine. I would definitely check all accessories driving by timing belt since they can also alter the timing if bad. Don't cheap out and buy the timing belt at a parts store. Dealer belts always last a bit longer than what rated at. Dealer should be able to do it in a day. That does not mean it will be done in a day just how long it would take. They might have a lot of other cars. A good shop can get it done in about 4-6 hours or less. I dont know your exact vehicle but fwd usually take longer since the belt is crammed behind the tire well.

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Yea even if it isn't the belt causing your problems (doesn't really sound like it to me) it definitely needs replaced so you should go ahead and have it done before it causes even more problems.

Edit:

and as far as time... in my old probe it took me a full day or so to do the swap. (split up in my case but if I had done it strait) On the other hand, I can do it in about 2 hours on my talon working alone. Really just depends on the car.

Edited by rusty959
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I understand Rusty, I also been thinking about the cam and crank shaft sensors being a gremlin. But regardless The timing belt is getting done. The man I spoke to said something like at that many miles the timing belt is stretched out to much already.

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When you start your car.. Where does it idle at? Does it idle rough when it cold or hot? YOu should check to see if the timing belt have any free play by removing the cover and check..

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to be honest your symptoms dont fit a timing belt. if it is the belt you would have much worse problems. its a good idea to have it done anyway. vacuum leak sounds a little better. if you want to really figure out the problem borrow a scan tool, if your short term fuel trim is way off from your long term then it could be your timing belt. but just see if you have any codes and go from there, if you need help diagnosing something let me no but dont just start to replace parts. figure out the problem. a timing belt at a shop should be about 4 hours maybe 6 book time. 150 is a very fair price to do the job. shit i would do it for 150. but yea, not going to be your problem, most likely.

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Yupp definitely some good advice here. By the way it uses a timing belt not timing chain. Timing chains never need to be serviced and don't stretch.60k is the longest I would go on your engine. Regardless of if it is the problem replace it. If you have never done mild engine take it to a shop. It is not worth the effort to learn on such a delicate engine. I would definitely check all accessories driving by timing belt since they can also alter the timing if bad. Don't cheap out and buy the timing belt at a parts store. Dealer belts always last a bit longer than what rated at. Dealer should be able to do it in a day. That does not mean it will be done in a day just how long it would take. They might have a lot of other cars. A good shop can get it done in about 4-6 hours or less. I dont know your exact vehicle but fwd usually take longer since the belt is crammed behind the tire well.

Timing chains do stretch and do need replacement. They can be either more or less reliable depending on the construction method used. Look up the differences of the Toyota 22R series engines for an example.

Gear driven timing can be the best but is less common these days.

OP - problems sound like vacuum leak. Do your timing belt anyways, its time.

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My car doesn't have RPM gauge. But most times at start up its fine, its after a awhile that it starts idling rough. Mechanic that did the belt said a vacuum leak could be the problem also, he had scanner and told me the throttle position sensor I had just replaced was not working at idle so I replaced it and still having this issue I had also replaced throttle position module. He said the mass air sensor was fine. So now I'm looking for a leak. but how exactly do I do that? I don't think blowing cigarette smoke at the lines will do any good lol.

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you should hear a hiss somewhere. if there is wave your hand over the engine till you dont hear it and then you will hear it after you hand passes it. then pin point it from there.

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My PCV line had a leak in it which caused my car to idle high and caused rough idle sometimes, a grommet was missing where it goes into a 3 way and into the top of the intake, replaced the grommet and the issue went away.

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