smashedz28 Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 idle voltage again according to the stock dash meter sits between 12.5ish and maybe 13.xx. would have to get the DMM out to find out for sure. It could be the pulley. another thing that i noticed after the purchase is the idle output on this alternator. rated at 105a idle and 220 at like 1400 or something. not to mention i have a Kinetik HC2000 under the hood and in the rear, only running a sundown 1500d and a mb quart dsc4125. but that aside the voltage bounces all over the place when the system is off, just dont fully understand what my problem is here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashedz28 Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 im sorry, im thread jacking here. if anyone will give me a little bit of their time trying to figure out my problem i would appreciate the hell out of it. just PM me or something, My problem doesn't exactly fit in this particular thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DC Power Rob Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 im sorry, im thread jacking here. if anyone will give me a little bit of their time trying to figure out my problem i would appreciate the hell out of it. just PM me or something, My problem doesn't exactly fit in this particular thread. There is no "solution" to your problem, it's the alternator you are running. You can't get a small enough pulley on it to make it charge enough at idle. 220 amp alternators like that belong in the scrap heap, they just dont belong on a vehicle, ever.. I dont mean to sound so harsh, but the reality here is you bought something that just doesn't work, and no matter what you do, it isn't going to change that fact.. For the people with the newer vehicles, there is no "fix" for low voltage on vehicles with RVC. Your best option is to run dual kit's when available and leave the stock alt to handle the stock electronics, and use the secondary alt to run the system at the higher voltage. You can run an MLA on the stock alt to get the voltage up, but when you can get a dual bracket for the same $$ as an MLA, run the dual alt setup and leave the factory alt alone. We've done thousands and thousands of dual setups on '07+ GM vehicles, they just plain work better. The issue here is most people equate low voltage with low output, it doesn't matter to most people if they have 200 amps at idle if it's only at 13.0v, they want to see 14.8v and unless that's happening, they are not happy. If you have an '06+ GM vehicle with RVC and want to see "normal" voltage, the only way your going to get it is either running an MLA, or a dual kit, otherwise no matter what alternator you are running you are going to see 13.0v 99% of the time.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dblovah51 Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 im sorry, im thread jacking here. if anyone will give me a little bit of their time trying to figure out my problem i would appreciate the hell out of it. just PM me or something, My problem doesn't exactly fit in this particular thread. There is no "solution" to your problem, it's the alternator you are running. You can't get a small enough pulley on it to make it charge enough at idle. 220 amp alternators like that belong in the scrap heap, they just dont belong on a vehicle, ever.. I dont mean to sound so harsh, but the reality here is you bought something that just doesn't work, and no matter what you do, it isn't going to change that fact.. For the people with the newer vehicles, there is no "fix" for low voltage on vehicles with RVC. Your best option is to run dual kit's when available and leave the stock alt to handle the stock electronics, and use the secondary alt to run the system at the higher voltage. You can run an MLA on the stock alt to get the voltage up, but when you can get a dual bracket for the same $$ as an MLA, run the dual alt setup and leave the factory alt alone. We've done thousands and thousands of dual setups on '07+ GM vehicles, they just plain work better. The issue here is most people equate low voltage with low output, it doesn't matter to most people if they have 200 amps at idle if it's only at 13.0v, they want to see 14.8v and unless that's happening, they are not happy. If you have an '06+ GM vehicle with RVC and want to see "normal" voltage, the only way your going to get it is either running an MLA, or a dual kit, otherwise no matter what alternator you are running you are going to see 13.0v 99% of the time.. thank you very well said and i now have the answer to my boys question! i was puzzled the first time he showed the vlt drop but now dual kits its the best option 2004 trailblazer 4 FI BTL 18s (2) DC 10.0k xs power d3100s mechman 270 158.2 @41 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashedz28 Posted February 26, 2011 Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 im sorry, im thread jacking here. if anyone will give me a little bit of their time trying to figure out my problem i would appreciate the hell out of it. just PM me or something, My problem doesn't exactly fit in this particular thread. There is no "solution" to your problem, it's the alternator you are running. You can't get a small enough pulley on it to make it charge enough at idle. 220 amp alternators like that belong in the scrap heap, they just dont belong on a vehicle, ever.. I dont mean to sound so harsh, but the reality here is you bought something that just doesn't work, and no matter what you do, it isn't going to change that fact.. For the people with the newer vehicles, there is no "fix" for low voltage on vehicles with RVC. Your best option is to run dual kit's when available and leave the stock alt to handle the stock electronics, and use the secondary alt to run the system at the higher voltage. You can run an MLA on the stock alt to get the voltage up, but when you can get a dual bracket for the same $$ as an MLA, run the dual alt setup and leave the factory alt alone. We've done thousands and thousands of dual setups on '07+ GM vehicles, they just plain work better. The issue here is most people equate low voltage with low output, it doesn't matter to most people if they have 200 amps at idle if it's only at 13.0v, they want to see 14.8v and unless that's happening, they are not happy. If you have an '06+ GM vehicle with RVC and want to see "normal" voltage, the only way your going to get it is either running an MLA, or a dual kit, otherwise no matter what alternator you are running you are going to see 13.0v 99% of the time.. nothing harsh about it, appreciate your response, i had a good feeling that was the case. biggest regret about my entire system was that damn DB Electric alternator. Guess ill just have to save up for a DC for the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
209er Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 That is the problem with my 07 tahoe,I always thought my alt.... Was going out even when I was not playing my voltage would drop like my alt was not charging. I would restart car and back up in when the back down after a bit. So best option for me is to get a dual alt setup and leave stock elect... Alone <p>Pioneer AVIC 6000 NEX, JBL 660c Components - FI SP415- Arc audio xdi2000.1- Xs Power- 0 gauge, Big 3 Upgrade Dc Power xp270 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 That is the problem with my 07 tahoe,I always thought my alt.... Was going out even when I was not playing my voltage would drop like my alt was not charging. I would restart car and back up in when the back down after a bit. So best option for me is to get a dual alt setup and leave stock elect... Alone Even though it's a necro-bump, I'm sure this'll show up on Google for someone, so I'll say this: They have a weird smart charging system for the battery. Easiest way around this is to get an externally regulated alternator, though I'm not sure if it will throw a charging error code / turn on your battery light ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
209er Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/Chevrolet~Tahoe~2007~5.3L-V8/gm-and-chevy-vortec-dual-alternator-kit-with-185-amp-oem-series-alternator.htm, And not worry it would not cause the light to come on? <p>Pioneer AVIC 6000 NEX, JBL 660c Components - FI SP415- Arc audio xdi2000.1- Xs Power- 0 gauge, Big 3 Upgrade Dc Power xp270 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff4661 Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 Ok I will step in.. I also have a "pcm" controlled alt that drops to 12.8 but what I've found out is that if you turn your lights on manually BEFORE you start your truck it keeps the truck in charge mode and voltage 13.8+.. This is how I've lived with it Current build 05 Yukon SLT http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/195350-jeffs-05-yukong-wall-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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