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Poured Seafoam down the wrong hose


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well as you can see its very simple how this works then. off is just off, its not connected to anything at all. and the switch (low, med, hi knob) just grounds the circuit. therefore your circuit is getting a ground from somewhere. my guess would be the switch is bad. the resister is probably cheaper though, so i would start there. make sure all your connections in the connector are good, replace the resister (return the old one) and if that does not work, i would test the switch. dont just replace it...

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thats something i would have to look at the vehicles specific wiring diagram to figure out but just a question. are all the pins ok on the connector that is on the car? also where did you get the new resister?

This is from a 1996, which I believe is in the same series as mine, but I am not sure, as mine is a 1999

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Also there was one pin on the connector that looked burned and somewhat melted, but it also had broken one of the resistor wires, so if the new one plugged in and works that means that that is not causing an issue, it just got really hot, I may have to look again tomorrow, also I got the blower motor resistor on amazon, I looked up what I needed, and it matched exactly, same exact build and everything, it works perfect, except for off, which I find weird, also am I supposed to poor the seafoam down this line?

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2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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if it says the brake booster vacuum line then yes....

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well as you can see its very simple how this works then. off is just off, its not connected to anything at all. and the switch (low, med, hi knob) just grounds the circuit. therefore your circuit is getting a ground from somewhere. my guess would be the switch is bad. the resister is probably cheaper though, so i would start there. make sure all your connections in the connector are good, replace the resister (return the old one) and if that does not work, i would test the switch. dont just replace it...

I wonder if something got messed up when it went, because all the power for the blower motor runs through the switch, so maybe it fried the off position or something, the lowest speed and off work exactly the same, but all the other speeds work normal now. The old one is very rusted and one of the resistors burned through, these are just wire that are in rings so I dont want to put the old one back, I dont see how it could damage off though if it just disconnects the blower from the circuit, ha ha

Link to What I bought I got it for 12 with overnight shipping :D I always check on rockauto.com first to see the compatible parts and I look around a bit

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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well if the low setting wire got shorted to a ground it wont turn off... thats the only way it will stay on. does the connector have 5 wires? or 6?

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so its either a shorted wire, which does happen when you replace things cuz you move the wire and can cut it on something, or its the switch that is in your car with the knob you turn for the setting, which is probably more expensive to replace...lol

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so its either a shorted wire, which does happen when you replace things cuz you move the wire and can cut it on something, or its the switch that is in your car with the knob you turn for the setting, which is probably more expensive to replace...lol

I will take a look tomorrow and see how bad that melted part of the connector was, it looked like it just got to hot, had a lot of resistance from all the rust while the motor tried to pull the current it needed

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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ok well let me know what you find tomorrow and ill see if i can help any more. you will probably be chasing a short though...

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Alright, so I took it out again, the one connector is burnt, but its the main power wire so that isn't the issue, its a red/white wire, I believe its the main power wire anyways, also I took my van in for an oil change and got that taken care of, and I also redid the seafoam in the brake booster, and it worked great, made a huge smoke cloud, and it feels more responsive :D Now I need to get a tranny flush or whatever, cause I got 30,000 on the tranny oil and dodges are sensitive to that kind of stuff, I know they need atf+4 or the tranny will fail after a few thousand miles, so after that I should be set, still annoyed with the heater thing, but I may just have to live with it, I just dont want the blower motor on all the time. also, would replacing the pcv valve help with gas mileage at all, I saw in another forum it might, and also spark plugs, I think its on the original, so they have 108,000 miles on them, would that help gas mileage at all? the sucky thing is the rear 3 plugs are super super hard to get to

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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and also spark plugs, I think its on the original, so they have 108,000 miles on them, would that help gas mileage at all? the sucky thing is the rear 3 plugs are super super hard to get to

IIRC they are the platinums but they're really only a 60K plug. So regardless of your loss of mpg, they should be replaced. There's no easy way to do the back bank, to me it's easier to do cylinders 3 and 5 from underneath and number one from up top. And since the wires probably have 108k on them, you should consider doing them as well.

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