Jump to content
Sonic Electronix

Question for Jeep/Dodge/chrysler or INSTALL Experts


Recommended Posts

I think you need to take the guy to small claims court

as for the floating system:

this is completely isolated from the rest of the car. ALL audio equipment needs to be on this system only...radio' date=' amps, ANY associated peripherals. the only part it shares is the chassis as a ground.

20 years ago there were no computers telling the alt when to charge the batteries, as long as you ahve a good regulator you'll be fine

[/quote']

I don't really think I could win in small claims court if the dealership or anyone else will specifically say it is something he did.

And if I have to buy a external regulator anyways wouldn't I be able to keep the system together on the same electrical system. Assuming the alt charging a lil to high is the problem that is. Wouldn't the regulator eliminate the need to run the system seperate.

Ohh and im still disconnecting the isolator. and Re-Running the amp to the batteries instead of the alt.

Basically if I can keep the system together and just add a regulator then he said he would foot 1/2 the bill.

But if he has to do all the extra work then I pay for the computer and he does other for free.

his lack of experience fucked up your car...he needs to take responsibility for it.

Principal

JTech Consulting - Leader in 12-Volt Training and Product PlanningIt's not about how much power you have, but how well you use it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you need to take the guy to small claims court

as for the floating system:

this is completely isolated from the rest of the car. ALL audio equipment needs to be on this system only...radio' date=' amps, ANY associated peripherals. the only part it shares is the chassis as a ground.

20 years ago there were no computers telling the alt when to charge the batteries, as long as you ahve a good regulator you'll be fine

[/quote']

I don't really think I could win in small claims court if the dealership or anyone else will specifically say it is something he did.

And if I have to buy a external regulator anyways wouldn't I be able to keep the system together on the same electrical system. Assuming the alt charging a lil to high is the problem that is. Wouldn't the regulator eliminate the need to run the system seperate.

Ohh and im still disconnecting the isolator. and Re-Running the amp to the batteries instead of the alt.

Basically if I can keep the system together and just add a regulator then he said he would foot 1/2 the bill.

But if he has to do all the extra work then I pay for the computer and he does other for free.

his lack of experience fucked up your car...he needs to take responsibility for it.

I agree but it is probably not gonna happen.

What did u think about the other part i aksed about.?

Would having an external regulator on my alt making sure it doesnt charge to high eliminate the need to run the floating electrical system.?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the drag on the whole system is probably going to be too much for the computer...I'd go with a separate charging system. There are others here who will say differently. they also ahve experience with this. you're going to have to decide which setup is going to suit your needs best.

Principal

JTech Consulting - Leader in 12-Volt Training and Product PlanningIt's not about how much power you have, but how well you use it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well from how I read your system is hooked up, its really wrong, it may function, but should be put in different. First off, you always need to have an alternator run to a battery first, always always. Alternators induce a lot of noise, and there levels that they output arnt perfect, if you look at a wave form of the electricity that comes out, it dips very small many times a second, because the regulator can only make the positive and negative rail so flat, then when it goes to the battery, that acts as a buffer getting rid of a lot of noise and flattening the curve. Hooking right to an amp is going to cause the amp to get major quick voltage changes, although small. Also when the amp goes to pull a major amount of power the alt will instantly drop voltage until the regulator kicks in to boost it up, as the load goes on the alt, that's why you have a battery, again to act as a buffer, an alt will only produce the power needed, laws of electricity, volts = resistance * amps. Not having a battery between the two is a bad idea in the first place.

Isolators, they are not really ever a good idea, especially the way the dude hooked yours up, from what I can understand the alt goes to the rear battery, then the isolator, then to the front battery. Isolators cause lots of issues, and have no real use, get rid of it, sell it. I do know on my dodge caravan, there was one specific strap that went to the negative terminal on the battery in the front of the car, black wire with ring terminal, probably around 10 gauge, and I removed it to see what would happen, well my charging voltage instantly went up to 16 volts, pushing even more, so I instantly put it back on, I thought it was interesting though, that something like that would happen. that could very easily fry a computer out, I would have to imagine that computers now days have some sort of over volt protection, but maybe not. The computer might be repairable, probably blew one of the first parts in, and could be fixed. this installer messed up big time, he needs to foot the bill, I know it sucks, but it happens from time to time, and he needs to fix it. if the vehicle comes into the shop working, and leaves with issues or doesn't work, and is brought back in a reasonable time, then the installer is most likely at fault, I do say they have the right to defend something ridiculous, but Jesus, the car can't even leave after this, its like saying a ghost came in and fried it

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yah tell the guy it came in working and should leave the same way but in this case it didn't, and you were the last person to work on it so you or one of your stupid installers did something wrong

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yah tell the guy it came in working and should leave the same way but in this case it didn't, and you were the last person to work on it so you or one of your stupid installers did something wrong

I wish it was that easy. He says the alternator is defective and since I supplied it to him then he is not resposible. Good news is I'm sending the alt back in so they can test it and Nate @ Excessive Amperage said even though he doesn't think the alt is defective that if he gets it and it is he will pay for the computer himself. So we will see how that goes... But so far it looks like I am footing the bill...

***NOTE TO EVERYONE FROM HOUSTON**** DON'T GO TO BIG JAE'S CAR AUDIO*****

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll bet my car rt now that I'm right.

And bro I would love to take u up on that bet. U have a really nice PT Cruiser.

But without troubleshooting and risking having to replace atleast 2 computers there is no way to tell.

And IDK about u bro but those computers running $900 everytime I fry one is a lil out of my budget.... I'm still trying to save up for my memphis mojo amps to go with my 15's.

I am sending the alt back just to get a test report on it to prove to this guy it's not the alt. And I'm having a regulator added onto it. So I still mite be able to prove it was his fault once I change it around. I am gonna remove the isolator and wire the amp to a battery instead of the alt like he has it. And once that is done and the regulator is on then if nothing goes worng then it has to be his fault. But with a regulator and no isolator if it still frys...Then IDK i guess I will just have to burn that freakin jeep and claim the insurance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll bet my car rt now that I'm right.

In a troubleshooting case like this, when I can't get my hands on the vehicle, there's no way in hell I'd make a bet like that...no matter how certain i am. No matter how many times I've done it...that's why I haven't said anyone else is wrong

Principal

JTech Consulting - Leader in 12-Volt Training and Product PlanningIt's not about how much power you have, but how well you use it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 2009 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...