chasef87 Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 Ok this is a long one and i'm haivng alot of problems different explanations thrown at me. So first off I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Im runnin 2 amps for 3,600 watts on 2 15's. I purchased a 250 amp HO alternator from Excessive Amperage. And 2 of the biggest XS Power batteries. I live in Houston,TX so i paid Big Jaes Car Audio here to do my install. After everything was finished and hooked up it turned out that some how my TIPM ( or computer ) got fried in the process. the way they have it wired starting from the amp is; amp to alternator. alternator to secondary batt. and secondary batt to 200 amp isolator and from the isolator to the primary battery. *** for the record i have never seen a amp wired directly to alternator. So to figure out who is responsible and has to foot the bill we took it to the dealership to try to get it straightened out. This is where it gets confusing. The dealership is saying that because Big jaes wired my amp directly into my alternator that when you turn the system on or off the sudden drop or surge in power is what likely fried my TIPM. Big Jae Rodriguez is saying that this is bulls**t and that the fault is either in the alternator being bad or a factory defect. I have no idea where to go from here becasue the dealership says that if i want to troubleshoot that i have to pay $900 a pop for every TIPM i fry in the process of trying to figure it out. Of course they recommend i return everything to factory. If anyone has any experience or could offer any insight to this issue it would be greatly appreciated. THANKS ahead of Time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 the installer should foot the bill. it worked when you brought it in. it needs to work when you take it out. plain and simple. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasef87 Posted March 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 the installer should foot the bill. it worked when you brought it in. it needs to work when you take it out. plain and simple. That seems fine and all and i do agree. But do you have any insite on what the actual problem could be.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 well if he feels its the alternator then put the factory back in as for the leads from the alternator. its been done before. I have no idea what would be the issue besides your installer sounds like a hack THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdblue Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 n8's right, installers fault. go back to the basic facts. you had the car. it was stock, you took it to him, now your TIPM is fried. Ive never heard of it frying just because. edit: don't know what the exact problem could be, but I would wire the amp to the battery and not the alternator. seems like thats the only thing in your install that sounds out of place. AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasef87 Posted March 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 ok i will try the factory alternator again. Does anyone know if the jeeps from that year had any problems with HO alternators period. The dealership said that just the fact its a HO alternator could have done it. I have heard of some vehicles needing a requlator to stop the HO alternator from charging to high. I do not know cuz I have never ran a HO alternator b4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superjay Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 CAN BUS systems tend to not like very high current alternators. the installer should have known this, and taken necessary precautions against it to protect the factory systems. I've done this to a 300 before (about 7 years ago). discovered it was the HO Alt. shop should foot AT LEAST half the bill, if not all of it. they should have insurance for this. Principal JTech Consulting - Leader in 12-Volt Training and Product PlanningIt's not about how much power you have, but how well you use it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reallunacy Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 Well, the reason that we wire amps to the batteries is to make it easier to suck the current from them. The only thing I can think of as the issue besides some shorts or other wiring issues would be that with it pulling from the alt it possibly caused the voltage to drop suddenly and fried it that way. If you can take it to an independent mechanic that isn't affiliated with the dealership or the installer you used I would. They ideally wouldn't say stock only and nor be worried about hurting the installers feelings. If you do decide to run the stock alt again, I would contact Mechman and see if he might allow you to pay a nominal fee to get it tested. If you go this route, be up-front about whether you intend to purchase from him or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jagraj7870 Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 ok i will try the factory alternator again. Does anyone know if the jeeps from that year had any problems with HO alternators period. The dealership said that just the fact its a HO alternator could have done it. I have heard of some vehicles needing a requlator to stop the HO alternator from charging to high. I do not know cuz I have never ran a HO alternator b4. i drive a 2008 jeep wrangler, and i have a DC 270xp H/O alt my battery light came on a couple months while back and sometimes went away and then it came back. i have a stinger volt meter and when everything is fine its 14.8-15.0 and when this light came on its 12.6-13.2. i checked everything and check all the possible connections especially the ones that i altered. everything was fine alternator was charging at 15.1-15.2 batteries were resting at 12.7-12.6 (i checked them individually). also when this happened i just installed my new Kicker ix500.4 amp. the new kicker amp has this "voltage protection circuitry" were if the voltage exceeds 16 volts it will shut off or if it drops below 10. when i'd press the brake pedal the audio cut out and then it came on, when i unlocked my doors it cut out, and when i raised my windows or lowered this happened basically when there was a big voltage change it happened. and then one day my battery light came on(12.6-13.2v) and i pressed the brake pedal and everything was fine, i unlocked my doors and raised and lowered my windows everything was fine nothing cut out so i think its the alternator its charging to high for the electrical system and i think i need some sort of external voltage regulator that keeps its 14.4-14.7 so that it doesn't spike here and there so i think its something to do with the voltage regulators that are built into the jeeps TIPM - 2 SMDs 1 Kicker WarhorseSound System Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/120796-2-18s-in-jeep-wrangler-jk-w-kicker-amplifiers/Air Bag Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/166437-jeep-wrangler-bagdj10k-build/https://www.facebook.com/teammayzn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superjay Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 Well, the reason that we wire amps to the batteries is to make it easier to suck the current from them. The only thing I can think of as the issue besides some shorts or other wiring issues would be that with it pulling from the alt it possibly caused the voltage to drop suddenly and fried it that way. If you can take it to an independent mechanic that isn't affiliated with the dealership or the installer you used I would. They ideally wouldn't say stock only and nor be worried about hurting the installers feelings. If you do decide to run the stock alt again, I would contact Mechman and see if he might allow you to pay a nominal fee to get it tested. If you go this route, be up-front about whether you intend to purchase from him or not. wrong...we go from the battery because it's easier. a circuit is a circuit. it doesn't matter where you terminate. Principal JTech Consulting - Leader in 12-Volt Training and Product PlanningIt's not about how much power you have, but how well you use it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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