15" SMD sub

[Brenton1]

Let's see here... It takes 210amps to run 3kwrms. (if you're doing that much.) and a good battery to back it. Plus 60-90amps for the vehicle, so thats about 300a and another battery. You WONT do 3kw or even 2kw @ 14.4v with 30hz tuning. You may have 15v now but that wont last when you full tilt a 3kw amplifier into a 30hz tuned subwoofer. Youll be fine but dont expect 15v or even 14.4v just sayin, if I was that guy at the shop thats what I would have said.

Ok. So I dont have the power, if I have to

I'll buy a AQ 3500D and tune to 32hz. 4.5

Cuft box.I got a sundown 3k amp. Thanks I'm learning alot, i didn't kno lower I tune my box,

Lower my amp will be hard to put out.. I prolly just not buy a SMD and buy a AQ hd3 15 and 36hz 4.5 cuft box cause I don't have the power for the Beasty SMD sub

[Sammitch0]

Honestly 30hz doesn't play that well on music eighter, most notes are 35-45hz very few have 30hz and below tuning, a good music tuning would be 33-35 to hit a nice high/mid/low medium. I would say that 300amps and those 2 batteries should suffice, but you're not going to power an SMD 15" off of 220a and 2 batteries won't happen.

[iKidwell]

Let's see here... It takes 210amps to run 3kwrms. (if you're doing that much.) and a good battery to back it. Plus 60-90amps for the vehicle, so thats about 300a and another battery. You WONT do 3kw or even 2kw @ 14.4v with 30hz tuning. You may have 15v now but that wont last when you full tilt a 3kw amplifier into a 30hz tuned subwoofer. Youll be fine but dont expect 15v or even 14.4v just sayin, if I was that guy at the shop thats what I would have said.

to the OP, you'll be more than OKAY off your electrical..

i have no clue what you're talkin about here..i understand current draw, but he'll be fine. Before my shit got stolen i was running a DD m2a @.5 daily(which did an easy 3k). I only have a mechman 250, big stock batt under hood, and a d1200 in the back, 2 runs of 1/0, and at idle the lowest i would drop to would be around 12.8..and that was playin around 28 hz...so he'll be fine.

edit: to sammitch's last post...you don't power the sub..sorry..i could buy an smd 15 if i wanted to and throw an xplod "700w" amp at it..and i would more than power the amp.

[9515ROB]

A H/O alt and a 3100 aint enough to for 3-4k get one more for in the trunk and you will be a lot better off. You can tune it to w.e you want but i would do from 32-35 because your not gonna pick up much in the 40-45hz range on music

[Sammitch0]

If you have a sundown 3k why go with the AQ3.5? Honestly the 3k is going to put out about as much power clean wise and require less amperage to run. I'd keep the SD and run it at rated (probably 3.2kw or 3.5kw right?) try to achieve 14.5v constant.

You'll need 241.379 amps to do 3.5kw @ 14.5v then I'd say a good 90a for the car (bigger vehicles/ luxury use 90a alternators usually) 331amps you can cut the load by using bigger batteries or more batteries. Get a 270a alternator and 4 batteries and you can sustaint your voltage with no drops or clipping. Even @ 35hz you're gonna get drop without this stuff. If you want 12.5-13v full tilt while driving then stick with your currently electrical.

my .2 cents.

[Sammitch0]

By powering I meant running the woofer to its fullest dont be a smartass... You were running an m2a if I recall the M series of those amplifiers run rated @ 11.5-12v (with no clipping.) 28-30hz isnt a huge difference so dont act like 2hz is going to add a huge load. and sorry but 12.8v on an amplifier only rated for 3kw @ 14.5 is going to fry or run like crap and sound bad, I guess its his choice but what you just said isn't at all a reason to keep his electrical as is.

Try running 3,000RMS to a woofer rated for that and then run an amplifier rated for 3,000RMS @ 14.5 then drop the voltage to 12v, you're woofer will be cooked in 5 minutes @ that frequency heh.

[TeamHT]

My god, sammitch....just STOP.

[9515ROB]

If you have a sundown 3k why go with the AQ3.5? Honestly the 3k is going to put out about as much power clean wise and require less amperage to run. I'd keep the SD and run it at rated (probably 3.2kw or 3.5kw right?) try to achieve 14.5v constant.

You'll need 241.379 amps to do 3.5kw @ 14.5v then I'd say a good 90a for the car (bigger vehicles/ luxury use 90a alternators usually) 331amps you can cut the load by using bigger batteries or more batteries. Get a 270a alternator and 4 batteries and you can sustaint your voltage with no drops or clipping. Even @ 35hz you're gonna get drop without this stuff. If you want 12.5-13v full tilt while driving then stick with your currently electrical.

my .2 cents.

I agree with all that but there still aint no way you are going to stay at 14.5 even with all you say he should do. i would love to have 12.5-13v full tilt when i am driving...All he has to do to be good is add another 3100 and he would have enough for daily

[bumonskateboard6]

Ugh it's been said before...everyone here gets huge boners for electrical upgrades.

Yes the math works out that he would need that much power but that's not how it works. A 200+ amp alternator only exists to charge the batteries at that rate. It is not trying to directly power the amplifier. The alternator he has is perfectly fine to keep a few large batteries charged. What matters is the batteries are charged and large enough to have the ability to send current when current is demanded, the amount of current demanded varies VASTLY. With how dynamic music is amplifiers are never putting out their full rated power for more than a second or two.

[Sammitch0]

In technical terms and on paper (which is what I ALWAYS go by) you need EXACTLY what I said ive been doing electrical/system installs for years. If you want to just get by on a technicality though then by all means, I'm just trying to make sure the man meets his demands. and Team HT, you've brought nothing to the table to insult me, so please englighten.

Tell me why then, with a BIG III a D1200 and a 90A alternator sitting @ 14.5v with the car running and driving my voltage drops to about 13.4v? I'm only running 1500rms... I'll tell you why, because the Alternator I had was JUNK 90A I upped to the 270 I get 15v idle @ full tilt 3kwrms which is what my system calls for, you guys also didnt factor that the mans probably going to have a mids/highs amplifier too so factor in another 20-40amps for that.

and my electrical is anything but "godly" its just a simple 1200 on a 270 with BIG III only cost me around $800 and I can do 3kw+ @ 14.5v with just ONE battery.