D_Roc Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 OK, I know its late but I just noticed an issue with the H.O. Alt I installed today. It seemed to be working fine but while my previous alternator/batteries were running at 14V (on the dash) this one is now running at 12V. I Checked it after a long drive home and it was cool to the touch. I went out to show my wife roughly an hour later and it was hot and making a humming noise as if it were passing current. When I unhooked the + batt terminal it stopped and cooled down immediately. This seemed to be an issue because it was pretty hot. Was it trying to bring the charge of the batteries back to 14V? I have 2 AGM batts in the rear that are 14.8V on the meter and a basic acid cell under the hood. Should I leave it unhooked??? Was it just charging the batteries after being unhooked for a while today? Is it OK if it gets hot (wasn't extremely hot, but hot)? PLEEEESE HELP!!! I just bought this alt and it was my first HO alt install. Thanks!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Roc Posted March 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 OK, obviously I disconnected everything last night. I woke up this morning and tried to trouble shoot. I have no battery charge so car won't turn over. I tried running from the + terminal directly to the alt pin (bypassing the rectifier box) and it still does the same thing. I overlooked and reran all of my wiring to confirm there wasn't any issues there and again, still no change. ANY input would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UnderLoK Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 What kind of vehicle? What kind of alt (now many wires come out of it)? On a side note, it should get warm or even hot. If it's cool it isn't working. If at first you do not succeed, you are doing it wrong! -ARSCheck out my walled TBSS build over here4 Fi Team 18s on 2 Cactus K9 DS18 doors on 2 MBQ 1Ks, Vifa pillars on a STL4.500 Pioneer X8500 6 XS Power D7500, 1 3400S Second Skin 2 270a Mechman Alts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumonskateboard6 Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 The alternator does not run if the car isn't running... Your problem is perplexing to say the least, I don't know how it would be running and hot when the car is off and cool when the car is on. Should be the other way around... Current Systems: 2011 BMW 335i Hertz HDP1 DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber 2002 Acura TlKenwood DNX9980HD2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 CoilsDC 3.5kHertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 RearHertz HDP4 AmpDC Power Engineering 260 Amp AltBig 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0XS Power D2400 Up Front i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch... going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box... Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth. A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Roc Posted March 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 Thanks guys, appologize for the delayed reply. I was on the phone with the manuf. and they believe it was a faulty alternator, basically it is blown. It apparently was drawing power from my batts while the car was off, hence the humming noise. It obviously has some issues but I am going to double check it with a meter and return if it is faulty. Sucks but I think I am just going to have to spend a little extra and buy a new one from DC. It will probably be worth the little extra cost in the long run. I appreciate everyone's replies!!! I have been going crazy today trying to figure this out and not having a vehicle to get to work, etc. Again, sorry for the delays but I'm bouncing all over! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UnderLoK Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 The alternator does not run if the car isn't running... Your problem is perplexing to say the least, I don't know how it would be running and hot when the car is off and cool when the car is on. Should be the other way around... I just figured it was a typo and he meant is was cool and then later while running it was hot. If at first you do not succeed, you are doing it wrong! -ARSCheck out my walled TBSS build over here4 Fi Team 18s on 2 Cactus K9 DS18 doors on 2 MBQ 1Ks, Vifa pillars on a STL4.500 Pioneer X8500 6 XS Power D7500, 1 3400S Second Skin 2 270a Mechman Alts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Roc Posted March 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 The alternator does not run if the car isn't running... Your problem is perplexing to say the least, I don't know how it would be running and hot when the car is off and cool when the car is on. Should be the other way around... I just figured it was a typo and he meant is was cool and then later while running it was hot. GOD, I wish it was a typo! This sucks, I spent a lot of timing running my wire chases and making it look great and now it has to come out What can you do. I've heard a lot of great things about DC and their service. They had no negative comments/reviews. I am going to call them once I get this one off and my stock back on and see what they recommend for my settup. I am really looking at the Pro Series 280. Innconvenient but could have been worse I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newls1 Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 I moved this topic as it was in the WTB section.... I believe now it is in the proper section I love my staffie So anti FACEBOOK it isn't even funny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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