Battery..

[AudioFiend]

You fuse according to the wire you're running to prevent the car catching on fire. Like I said you hook a 200 amp load onto your XS D2400 for maybe 45 seconds...Aside from being dead the battery will be extremely hot...The terminals at least..Well copper transmits heat real well and when the amp is, again, pulling power from the battery that heat travels down that wire through the fuse toward the amp.

You put the fuse close to the battery so when the terminals are putting 500 degrees to the fuse....

.....(Becuase your amp is pulling power from a battery instead of what it's meant to be pulling power from...An alternator)....

... it pops 12 inches away from the battery instead of having to heat up 3 feet of 0 gauge copper to 500 degrees before popping the fuse, in turn lighting your car on fire.

The amp will blow a 5$ part if it's going to blow from too much power...Amp's blow from too little power being pulled from a battery that gets incredibly hot in a matter of seconds due to a high amp draw and rapid voltage drop....

Edited March 27, 2011 by AudioFiend

[AudioFiend]

Well if the Power Acoustik's 3200 watt RMS rating was on a true 1 ohm @ around 16v or whatever they test on then it just isn't realistic that test amp couldn't caught on fire who knows lol.

Anyone who knows impedance knows that to get to an actual 1 ohm after box rise and other factors you have to basically run a .175 - .3 ohm load to the amp, in which case the box rise will put you right up around a true 1ohm run. The amp has in it 5x40 amp on board fuses which = 200amps. 200x16v=3200 so maybe they indeed tested it at 16v for a short time period to get that number but odds are you will be running @ 13.8-14.4 volts...Again with the proper alternator...If you don't have the proper alternator, and run battery power to it..You will be seeing fluctuating voltage and may even drop close to 12.5 or lower...

200a x 16v = 3200 watts @ 1 ohm

200a x 14v = 2800 watts @ 1 ohm

200a x 12.5v = 2500 watts @ 1ohm

Since you won't be wiring your subs anywhere near .33 ohms to achieve a true 1 ohm load after rise...Say you wire your subs down to 1ohm and run them to the amp, calculate box rise and you wind up running a true 3ohm load.

Well what is about to follow is totally hypothetical, and rough at best. But it will put a more realistic number to the amp's output for you.

Let's use the 200x14 for it but now remember you'll be running up closer to 3ohms so let's figure out 3 ohms on 14v instead of the 16v they seemed to have gotten their numbers from.

2800 @ 1 ohm is -400 from 16v

For the sake of my brain...just subtract 400 from each so 1ohm would be 2800w, 2ohm would be 2100w, and 4ohm would be 1300w judging by their rating of the amp.

So on 14v which your alternator will be putting out with no modification:

That amp should be around:

2800@1ohm

2100@2ohm

1700@3ohm <---- Somewhere in between 2 and 3 is your number if you wire your sub(s) to 1ohm

1300@4ohm

900@5ohm

500@6ohm

100@7ohm

?>@8ohm I'm 100% sure it isn't linear like this but whatever..

I'de look for around 1500-2000 watts RMS out of the amp which still isn't bad for $250 but be careful now the components and construction of them is cheap, fast, and furious in some Chinese factory so take it easy on this brand, it's not a Sundown amp.

I mean judging by the guts it could be a 1500 watt @ "1ohm" more conservatively lol...which is not bad at all for $250. I'd still save up at least $500 or more for an amp that will be sure to last a long time, and take a lot of newb abuse.

Edited March 27, 2011 by AudioFiend

[TeamHT]

Oh my god....oh my :facepalm: god...

[CaptainzPlanetz]

Oh my god....oh my :facepalm: god...

All of that for a Power Acoustik amp question..................I can understand where you coming from AudioFiend, but most of us arent Alma Gates with the alternators, the most a person in a normal car can fit is 1 or 2, and there is no way you are gonna run 2 350 amp alts on a lil 4 banger without getting tons of belt slip, which defeats the purpose of the alts to begin with.

Not everybody can be Alma Gates

[JMac91]

Thanks for the responses.. Kinda got off topic tho. I wasnt asking how shitty my amp was.. lol. maybe it cant handle 2k rms who knows, but ill give it a shot.

Just wanna get this problem cleared up.. Its a pain.

And No I mentioned I have a 1995 shitty explorer, I dont really have room for extras under the hood.

Im not an alternator expert either. So.. im pretty much just gonna do the big 3.. then itll be downhill from there. I mean up.

And it seems like you want me to spend a thousand bucks.. oh get a better $500 amp.. get this alt and this battery.. I cant do that.. cmon man lol

That was alot of info tho for my incredibly huge brain.

But I think in there somewhere I seen you said I should get a 200a fuse for the block?

So thanks for answerin that question.. if im not mistaken.

[crunkjuice1]

dude all fiend did was tell you whats really happening all you need to understand you have to make power to have power and a battery and big 3 might help but your weak link might be the alternator and thats the heart of your electrical, if that isn't strong enough everything will not work right car wise as well as audio wise.

[JMac91]

dude all fiend did was tell you whats really happening all you need to understand you have to make power to have power and a battery and big 3 might help but your weak link might be the alternator and thats the heart of your electrical, if that isn't strong enough everything will not work right car wise as well as audio wise.

Never said he didnt tell me good info.

He mentioned 3 things I should buy and I just wanted to clarify im not made of money.

So idk what im doing yet im just getting info.

Didnt know with a 2k rms system would involve replacing an alt but after the big 3 ill let u guys know where im at and get final decisions.

Like I said im not an alt expert so if I dont have to I really dont wanna replace it.

[JMac91]

Also.. it seems like my battery now is kind of shit.. so thats why I was leaning towards a new battery instead of alt.

Whats the code to post the dirrect video.. just uploaded on imageshack.

http://img836.imageshack.us/i/hbi.mp4/

At the end of it my fuse blew.. wasnt a big fuse tho so kinda expected it. my headlights dim like crazy. Just thought id upload this for fun.

Edited March 28, 2011 by JMac91

[sprkn_ranger]

To answer the fuse question if nobody has yet, you need a fuse that is rated for your WIRE. I'm not sure what your wire can handle but most of the time 300a fuse is good for 1/0.

[rickyfromthe407]

I can tell you this.

I got the same amp. From a previous install with my old Soundstream EGA1700D which had FIVE 30amp fuses. I had a 150amp fuse on my 1/0 from the battery to the AMP.

I didnt bother changing the fuse out of pure laziness ( probably a pretty bad idea ) but with this amp being a 5500 so claimed watt amp, and my soundstream ega actually putting out rated RMS.

This amp is not even pulling 150amps from my battery...

Hmmm....Something to ponder I suppose.

**I did cheap on on the amp though, but hey, lets hope it lasts till I earn up some more dough to buy me something better.**

Sounds good as hell on my 4 10"s with no clipping... So im not bitchen.