Peal and Seal

[kingsuv]

I ended up doing a layer of Damp pro with some doubling up on the larger unsupported panels throughout the truck and had a noticeable difference after over the P&S Then I added the LLP to the floor and wow was it a big difference. I am still a bulk pack and 5 sheets of LLP short from completing the entire truck the way I want too.

[bassrace]

There no reason to dawg peel n seal. Ppl get on these forum and talk ish. Its good ish for the money i would use it again ive only used dynamat extreme other than peel n seal but i have to say the only difference betwwen the two are the looks. They are the same thickness. No its not "paper thin" like i seen someone mention. I started my trunk with dynamat extreme then i found peel n seal and now im mad i payed the extra $ for the dynamat. I stopped my rattle trap with peel n seal and it works great doesnt fall off inverted hellll i coulnt peel it off if i wanted too.lol i know ppl are going to disagree with me but its ok i really have experience with this stuff and i wont buy another product unless its cheaper and works 10 times better b/c this stuff stopped all my rattles

[Second Skin Rep Jon]

There no reason to dawg peel n seal. Ppl get on these forum and talk ish. Its good ish for the money i would use it again ive only used dynamat extreme other than peel n seal but i have to say the only difference betwwen the two are the looks. They are the same thickness. No its not "paper thin" like i seen someone mention. I started my trunk with dynamat extreme then i found peel n seal and now im mad i payed the extra $ for the dynamat. I stopped my rattle trap with peel n seal and it works great doesnt fall off inverted hellll i coulnt peel it off if i wanted too.lol i know ppl are going to disagree with me but its ok i really have experience with this stuff and i wont buy another product unless its cheaper and works 10 times better b/c this stuff stopped all my rattles

We talk 'ish' about these peel and seal products because they are NOT the same and do not work half as well as actual sound deadening CLD products. Far too many people are throwing two or three times the amount of P&S to achieve the same results as a single layer of true CLD mat. So in the end are you really saving money?

Also most peel and seal products are a mixture of bitumen and/or asphalt with some butyl. Very few (if any) are 100% butyl.

With a 100% butyl CLD only 25% of a panel needs to be treated to hear a noticeable result, where as with a bitumen/asphalt/butyl mat requires more area to be treated to achieve the same results. And of course you have the smell issues, adhesion problems, and all of that (some better than others).

People seem to always look at the thickness of these products as the say all end all and this is not the case. There is a magical ratio between the thickness of the butyl core and the thickness and stiffness of the constraining layer. Without this, you are just adding mass and just changing the resonance frequency of the panel and not actually controlling or lessening the vibrations.

Later,

[Second Skin Rep Jon]

I'm just concerned about not being able to fit the luxury liner in my door panels

There are plenty of people installing LLP IN their doors without issue.

A full 2' x 4' piece installed inside a Camaro's door:

Actually applying it ON the door, that's next to impossible because of the thickness.

A layer of sound deadening and a thin layer of foam is about all you can get on there.

Later,

[Red-navi-916]

I would only use peal and seal on the floor but that is it, I stuck like 3 rolls on my roof summer came more then 90% of it was on the headliner. So I had to rip it all out waste!

[SQMonte]

God I wish I had some DP left! Everybody is saying how P&S doesn't deaden, just add weight, yet nobody has done the actual test to confirm what it does. The paint can test. When I first heard about SSDP it was on a video Steve made and he showed how effective it was by rattling around some bolts in a paint can with no deadener installed....super loud. Then he put some SSDP on the bottom of the can and the noise was reduced significantly. Somebody needs to do this same test using P&S so we can see how effective it really is compared to SSDP cause all we have right now are subjective opinions.

[Ricky A.]

dont use peel and seel i put 3 layers on the floor of my truck and on the back wall. and it literally did nothing.. WASTE OF MONEY! but i will say its sticky as hell aslong as its above 75 degrees. and have 0 problems with it peeling or seeping

[Red-navi-916]

God I wish I had some DP left! Everybody is saying how P&S doesn't deaden, just add weight, yet nobody has done the actual test to confirm what it does. The paint can test. When I first heard about SSDP it was on a video Steve made and he showed how effective it was by rattling around some bolts in a paint can with no deadener installed....super loud. Then he put some SSDP on the bottom of the can and the noise was reduced significantly. Somebody needs to do this same test using P&S so we can see how effective it really is compared to SSDP cause all we have right now are subjective opinions.

They both will deaden the same, they both will reduce the noise in the can. But the point it peal seal was not made for cars second skin was. On topbof that when people use peal and seal on houses they put this black paper tarp over it then they staple it mainly used around frames of new windows doors ect. in. The past year we installed many of them with the same process. So I guess what I'm trying to say is unless you plan on bolting the peel and seal to your roof it's a waste. I wasted three rolls on my roof.

[Second Skin Rep Jon]

I try my very best to be as objective as I can. Why? Because I have used most (if not all) of the different sound deadening products out there. B-Quiet Extreme (and Ultimate), Brown Bread, eDead (every thickness they've offered), eDead UE, Dynamat (original), Dynamat Xtreme, Damplifier (both black and silver versions, including their "Lite" version), Damplifier Pro (several different versions), V-MAX, RAAMMat, and several others that I can't think of right off the top of my head. Some work and install better than others, some more expensive than the rest.

Excluding performance differences between P&S and 100% butyl CLD, there are clear and legitimate reasons not to use P&S as sound deadening.

P&S products consist mainly of asphalt with rubberized compounds to increase the stability level (temperature rating) of their products. These compounds deteriorate over time and as this happens the stability level decreases. As this occurs, the adhesive level drops and the product starts to fail. This is why P&S is used on flat horizontal surfaces, like roofs. In addition to that, the average life expectancy for P&S installations is only a summer or two because of this (if you life in a cooler climate where temps don't reach 90°F, it'll obviously last longer).

Now on the reverse side, extended periods of high temps (around 150°F-160°F), all of the VOCs cook out of the product, rendering it solid and absolutely worthless... and brittle. Interesting how unstable these products are isn't it?

Then there are health concerns about the VOCs that the P&S products release when heated. In a confined space such as a vehicle, that's not the best choice of product.

All I'm trying to do is provide people with as much information that I can to make an informed decision. I know a lot of it comes down to price and there are a several reasonably priced, 100% butyl products out there. So again, I see no need to waste your time or money on P&S products... unless you need to fix your roof.

Later,

[SQMonte]

They both will deaden the same, they both will reduce the noise in the can. But the point it peal seal was not made for cars second skin was. On topbof that when people use peal and seal on houses they put this black paper tarp over it then they staple it mainly used around frames of new windows doors ect. in. The past year we installed many of them with the same process. So I guess what I'm trying to say is unless you plan on bolting the peel and seal to your roof it's a waste. I wasted three rolls on my roof.

This is exactly why I want to see the test done! Some are arguing in here that P&S doesn't deaden and "does absolutely nothing".

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hi8XGozxwUI

Didn't look like he needed to apply 2 or 3 layers to me. And since that's how most of us apply deadening anyway (trying to get as much coverage on the panel as possible) it seems the "you need 2 or 3 layers" to match a good dampeners performance just got tossed out the window.

TV's weren't made for cars either but people put them in there and they do the same job as they would in the house. But like I said in my first post, I only use the stuff on horizontal surfaces anyway

I try my very best to be as subjective as I can.

Excluding performance differences between P&S and 100% butyl CLD, there are clear and legitimate reasons not to use P&S as sound deadening.

P&S products consist mainly of asphalt with rubberized compounds to increase the stability level (temperature rating) of their products. These compounds deteriorate over time and as this happens the stability level decreases. As this occurs, the adhesive level drops and the product starts to fail. This is why P&S is used on flat horizontal surfaces, like roofs. In addition to that, the average life expectancy for P&S installations is only a summer or two because of this (if you life in a cooler climate where temps don't reach 90°F, it'll obviously last longer).

Now on the reverse side, extended periods of high temps (around 150°F-160°F), all of the VOCs cook out of the product, rendering it solid and absolutely worthless... and brittle. Interesting how unstable these products are isn't it?

Then there are health concerns about the VOCs that the P&S products release when heated. In a confined space such as a vehicle, that's not the best choice of product.

You meant objective, right?

What you said above (see bold print) is so far the most logical and reasonable case against asphalt based products like P&S. All that other stuff about JUST lowering the resonant frequency wasn't very moving, matter of fact that's the intended purpose of sound dampening materials so you actually made a case for using P&S

As for VOC's, there are millions of products that contain VOC's that we come into contact with on a daily basis. Things like tire dressing, hair spray, and daily household products, so if VOC's haven't killed us by now.....I know about VOC's all too well, alot of car care products I really like I can't get anymore due to not being VOC compliant here in Cali so if the VOC's contained in P&S were as serious as you're trying to make it seem I promise you this would be the first state to ban it.