BassJunkie Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 Recently traded my 1500.1bd for two bd1500.1's...I love them so far, only problem is the previous owner cross threaded the grounded and stripped out the allen head, I tried to drill it out without any luck. Any other suggestions? Quote 1986 C20 Suburban 9 American Bass XFL 15's B2 M1MKII 14v XS Power Batteries Maxwell Caps Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not you havent lived until you've hit a screw with a router. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-Fizzy Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 Are you trying to get it out? Or just replace the terminal screw? Quote under construction I hate People with crappy primered cars rolling on hubcaps that are louder then me. u hate c-fizzy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azagtoth502 Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 Try to get a picture of this Quote pa-pa-platypus sorry not everybody has a companies nuts so far down their throat they catch every drop ball sweat when it falls Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassJunkie Posted April 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 Are you trying to get it out? Or just replace the terminal screw? I want it out, or if theres any other alternatives thats fine as well. I just want to connect a ground wire to it. Quote 1986 C20 Suburban 9 American Bass XFL 15's B2 M1MKII 14v XS Power Batteries Maxwell Caps Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not you havent lived until you've hit a screw with a router. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-Fizzy Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 Is the screw sticking up enough to grapple the top of it with pliers? Or is it even the slightest bit loose? Quote under construction I hate People with crappy primered cars rolling on hubcaps that are louder then me. u hate c-fizzy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 drill it out to next size up and re-tap. might just need a better drill bit. Quote MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassJunkie Posted April 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 I'm going to go get better drill bits tomorrow and give it a shot again. Used to have nice bits but I move away for a few months and tools just seem to walk off on their own now.. Quote 1986 C20 Suburban 9 American Bass XFL 15's B2 M1MKII 14v XS Power Batteries Maxwell Caps Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not you havent lived until you've hit a screw with a router. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 (edited) There are things called "easy outs" used for getting stripped screws out. http://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Screw-Bolt-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE You can get them at most hardware stores. kinda explains how they are used.. http://www.crustyquinns.com/tech/easyout.html And if the threads on the amp are stripped you can re-tap them to the same size or next size bigger, but you will need a "flat bottom tap" due to the normal taps with not being able to go thru the terminal block far enough to re-thread the hole fully. What you would need are something like these VS a normal tap that has a coned tip and would not go far enough thru to make a good thread. Edited April 3, 2011 by Audiofanaticz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crunkjuice1 Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 (edited) same as audio said but you can go cheaper. I went to lowes and bought a tiny drill bit and drilled a hole in middle of broken screw (use center punch first) then they also sell a reverse out drill bit the swirls on it are going the other way and you use drill in reverse. Actual name is kobalt #1 spiral screw extractor and a dewalt split point cobalt drill bit 3/32. Patience and a sharp center punch before you start to drill so bit doesn't walk is the main part once extractor catches it will clean threads on way out, good luck. http://www.lowes.com/pd_232606-1083-358241_0__?productId=1065081&Ntt=screw+extractor&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dscrew%2Bextractor http://www.lowes.com/pd_71093-70-DW1206_0__?productId=1209435&Ntt=3%2F32&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3D3%252F32 EDIT: I read audio's link and thats what is needed. Edited April 3, 2011 by crunkjuice1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 (edited) dont center punch the screw unless you have something under the terminal block to support it, even then it is dangerous to do as you can crack it off the PCB of the amplifier. should have a support under it while drilling as well really Edited April 3, 2011 by STEvil Quote MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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