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Should I add the Capacitor?


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Alright, before you start saying I shouldn't waste money on capacitors (I agree) please read this. A friend of mine took all his audio stuff out of his car and gave it to me. Among the things that he gave me was a Power Acoustik 25 Farad capacitor. In a couple weeks I plan to do the big 3 and install an AQ1200D and possible continue to run another small amp for the mids and highs (25 amp draw). I have stock electrical except for the big 3 and am wondering if I should go ahead and throw the capacitor in there to help with the 135 amp draw or if it would even be worth the time. If anyone has any opinions on whether I should hook it up or not it would be greatly appreciated. Basically I just want to know if it will make a difference with the electrical or not.

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nooooooooooooooooooo

Legal TL scores145.6 on the dash sealed up in the low 40hz area with the port out145.5 on the dash sealed up @30hz with the port inless then 1k clamped on a 3.5k!

Why would you EVER WANT flex?
huh?...flex is what can make the lows lower and more air being pushed correct?
jeff_zps9bc81ace.jpg

me_zps0fb5a5b4.jpgMy FeedbackJeep-BuildlogPT LOSER buildlog

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My stock electrical handled 1.2kw just fine without big 3, depending on your alt size you may be okay.

Bassless once again. Can't seem to keep a system for more than a few weeks :)

Saving for a '06 Nissan 350z, look for build around June 2012.

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the reason people dont like caps as they have no resurve supply like a deep cycle battery does, once they get charged they discharge and so on, there constantly pulling and pushing power,

one thing i never understood is how they worked with no input and output like a regular cap with ac current, u have a common and then a discharge output, with this u have a pos n and neg, how would it discharge without sending it back the way its drawing power?

i had a 1cf stinger cap with 4guage power n ground on a mtx 500d and it worked fine, stock electrical with no big 3, full tilt with headlights on and high beams (my honda has 4 bulbs, 2 35-55w blue halogens, and 2 100w white halogens) and my amp wired to 1ohm and its only stable to 2ohm my voltage never dropped from 14.3v

a cap does work, but it dont have enough resurve to keep discharging like a regular battery does, with a battery u can wang on it and it will still put out amperage while charging itself back up, but with a cap, once its discharged it will have to charge back fully to get back its efficency, this is why people spend big money on high amp hr batteries so when they need the power its there, rather than letting it charge

like when u buy a cap from a store, it will come with a charge bulb, u hook it up to the neg side of the cap, once the light goes out its charged, and u hook ur wire to it, if u do not do this it will constantly discharge and charge and it can mess up ur battery, i had to get another battery for my geo due to this

and with a cap u can run ur system with car off, but its not recomended, i would say do big 3, get a good starter battery and run the cap

i honestly dont see why people hate caps as much as they do, would work good to help take the strain off the alt at big amp peaks, and smooth out the voltage drop, i might hook mine back up just to see what it will do to help me, i got a stinger sp800 but it wont charge over 10.8v, i dunno if its hurting me more than helping

but i say go ahead and do it, what can it hurt? for free its worth a shot, if not sell it to me for $40 :pardon: and put the money twards a new battery? lol

good luck tho

here's a link to my system 99 toyota tacoma , 2 mtx 8000 1504's in a sealed downfire , 1000w memphis amp

here's a link to my other system my 90 geo prizm test car

heres a thread i got of new songs u can dl that are legal = Some Good Bangage/you Can Dl These Free And Legit

redblob.gifbouncing%20blob.gif2yooj7m.pngmodel14.gif

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lol, if my posts are to long it gives u enough time to fap befor u post a responce to it :drinks::peepwall:

but ya, booty ftw! :yahoo::pardon::popcorn:

here's a link to my system 99 toyota tacoma , 2 mtx 8000 1504's in a sealed downfire , 1000w memphis amp

here's a link to my other system my 90 geo prizm test car

heres a thread i got of new songs u can dl that are legal = Some Good Bangage/you Can Dl These Free And Legit

redblob.gifbouncing%20blob.gif2yooj7m.pngmodel14.gif

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nooooooooooooooooooo

Reasoning?

What car is yours?

88 4Runner

sell the capacitor and buy a battery

sell the capacitor and buy a battery

x2

I doubt I would get much for the cap and it probably wouldn't be worth the time to sell and I'm trying to spend as little as possible.

My stock electrical handled 1.2kw just fine without big 3, depending on your alt size you may be okay.

Yea, I think it will be fine but I thought adding the cap might help a little but based on some things I read I wasn't sure. And I'm pretty sure my alt is pretty small. not sure on specs but its in an 88 4Runner so it can't be huge.

the reason people dont like caps as they have no resurve supply like a deep cycle battery does, once they get charged they discharge and so on, there constantly pulling and pushing power,

one thing i never understood is how they worked with no input and output like a regular cap with ac current, u have a common and then a discharge output, with this u have a pos n and neg, how would it discharge without sending it back the way its drawing power?

i had a 1cf stinger cap with 4guage power n ground on a mtx 500d and it worked fine, stock electrical with no big 3, full tilt with headlights on and high beams (my honda has 4 bulbs, 2 35-55w blue halogens, and 2 100w white halogens) and my amp wired to 1ohm and its only stable to 2ohm my voltage never dropped from 14.3v

a cap does work, but it dont have enough resurve to keep discharging like a regular battery does, with a battery u can wang on it and it will still put out amperage while charging itself back up, but with a cap, once its discharged it will have to charge back fully to get back its efficency, this is why people spend big money on high amp hr batteries so when they need the power its there, rather than letting it charge

like when u buy a cap from a store, it will come with a charge bulb, u hook it up to the neg side of the cap, once the light goes out its charged, and u hook ur wire to it, if u do not do this it will constantly discharge and charge and it can mess up ur battery, i had to get another battery for my geo due to this

and with a cap u can run ur system with car off, but its not recomended, i would say do big 3, get a good starter battery and run the cap

i honestly dont see why people hate caps as much as they do, would work good to help take the strain off the alt at big amp peaks, and smooth out the voltage drop, i might hook mine back up just to see what it will do to help me, i got a stinger sp800 but it wont charge over 10.8v, i dunno if its hurting me more than helping

but i say go ahead and do it, what can it hurt? for free its worth a shot, if not sell it to me for $40 :pardon: and put the money twards a new battery? lol

good luck tho

I have no idea how to charge a cap or really how to hook one up and I was worried about the constant draw from it discharging and recharging. Wasn't sure if that would make it harder on the electrical than its worth.

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