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So the other day, I started to hear a whining noise that was attuned to my electrical, weird, checked grounds, everything was fine. Then yesterday it got really really bad. Me and my dad got to trying to figure it out, we smell my amp and it smells burnt. I get it in, never opened ever before, still had warranty. Called MTX, they said I could get any amp for 40% off. Well I thought, why not try to repair it. I opened it up to get a big wiff of burnt smell, knew for sure it was the amp now. I smelt around the amps board, I have no experience with this type of repair, or in the field of circuit boards. I pined the smell to a certain location on the board, brought it over to my neighbor who found it was a resistor blew. Well I thought why not just get it fixed, I know all I need is some solder and a soldering iron, along with a new resistor and it's worth a shot. Took the amp over to Fry's Electronics out by me, they said they didn't understand the resistor because it had 2 gold rings around it, which it shouldn't. He looked though through their stock and found one similar to mine, just with a different background color to it. Took the Board off, and attempted to take it off, used a soldering iron on wires and what not but never on a circuit board. Took a bit to get the fired one out and new one in, but I got it. So excited to try it out, didn't even put cover back on and just wired it up. Turned my car on, I feel and hear the bass, about the same as it was before. Suddenly the subs stop, 2 seconds later my electrical restarts and there is no power to the amp and I see its smoking, now 2 other resistors fried. So I see no point in trying more because I am sure the amp is done, the date on the board is 4/15/98. Now I am stuck using my friends old alpine MRV-F250, 4 channel, bridged to 2 running series at 8Ohms, I had them in parrallel but the 25A fuse blew, so I replaced with a 30A fuse and switched it to 8 Ohms and it's no problem. Will probably try it back on 4Ohms tommarow. I have picture but they are in my camera in the garage, and it's pouring out :(

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Sorry for the loss of gear but thinking you can easily fix a complex item like an amp requires some special equipment and knowledge, just cause you seen one piece messed up didn't mean there wasn't other parts that didn't get affected. Thats why we pay the big bucks for them to fix it.

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Was not worth the big bucks to get it fixed, MTX didn't even carry parts for it anymore. It's fine though, this is my first ever build so it's nice learning experience, and I got the amp and subs for free :)

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Please don't change the fuse on an amplifier from 25-30 unless you want to blow that too...

Fixing amplifiers is tricky work and best left to people that can do it. Unless you got a few grand in electrical tools I wouldn't even attempt it

Current Systems:

2011 BMW 335i

Hertz HDP1

DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber

2002 Acura Tl
Kenwood DNX9980HD
2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 Coils
DC 3.5k
Hertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 Rear
Hertz HDP4 Amp
DC Power Engineering 260 Amp Alt
Big 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0
XS Power D2400 Up Front

i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch...

going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box...

Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth.

A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?

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Lol, it ran no problem on the 30A fuse.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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thats sucks man,i know how ya feel not having bass(or just a little unlike what you are used to)my motor mounts broke on my car a few weeks back and they finally got my new ones at the store so i been rollin in my moms mini van bumpin stocks until tomorrow lol

id rather listen to no music than music without bass-zayres29

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Haha, I was out of an amp until today when I found my y splitters for my RCA cables.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Share on other sites

Lol, it ran no problem on the 30A fuse.

Of course it'll run fine on a 30A fuse...it just means now you don't have any fused protection on the amp. The amperage of the fuse is determined by the amount of amperage that would damage the amplifier, and set lower than that amperage to protect the components. If it takes a 25A fuse replace it with a 25A, and if it's popping fuses check your other electrical connections for problems.

Or don't then write another story about how you cooked your friend's amp.

Current Systems:

2011 BMW 335i

Hertz HDP1

DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber

2002 Acura Tl
Kenwood DNX9980HD
2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 Coils
DC 3.5k
Hertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 Rear
Hertz HDP4 Amp
DC Power Engineering 260 Amp Alt
Big 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0
XS Power D2400 Up Front

i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch...

going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box...

Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth.

A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?

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I woulda took the 40% off MTX was trying to give you ...

2006 F-150

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XS Power

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Team DC

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Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0

DC Audio Dealer

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XS Power Dealer

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I still have the 40% discount, I am just broke for a while and have no way of taking advantage of it. ALso I did lots of math after it, and if I where to buy a T500-1bdCP from Audiosavings, It would be cheaper, and better fit my subs than any of MTX amps, with the discount. Also for skateboard, guy, I get what your saying. The only reason I think it blew was because the amp isn't 2 ohms stable.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Link to comment
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