BozzMazzi Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Hey all... I was trying to find some info regarding battery bus bar's (aluminum &/or copper) on the site but was not able to (a link would help if any one knows of one) so I figured that I would just ask. I have 5 batteries (Kinetik HC 2400's) that are currently in series with 0awg wire but I see some people use these copper or aluminum bus bars to get more consistent charges/discharges but I am curious if this method is really worth the extra time, effort and money? I would appreciate any info to help me decide or any other suggestions that might be better than the daisy chain of wire. Thanks in advance... Quote 2002 Suburban on 24s (2) RF 2500bdcp's (1) DC Power 270xp alt (for system only) (4) Kinetik Racing KR3112 batteries (1) JL Audio A4300 (1) Focal K1 component sets (rears) (1) Q Logic kick panel 6 1/2" pods (4) Eminence 6 1/2's speakers (fronts) (6) Selenium Super Tweeters (2) Sundown Audio Nightshade hybrid 18s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
memphisBred Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Looks alone is good enough to me. I got 1/4" copper bar, bronze hardware( nuts, washers, and bolts) in 50 piece packs from McMaster-Carr's website. All for 45$. Cleaned up the wiring, copper looks sexy, and not to mention the copper is a great conductor. Well worth it to me. Quote SMD Super Seller/Buyer Audison----Hertz----Rainbow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emmet Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 (edited) Just depends on what set up your running really A lot of them are just for show but once you get into big power the physics of it comes into play. Like through copper wire, running a lot of power will make it get hot, heat is something you dont want as it means wasted power, busbars are really good ways of dissipating heat and getting real efficient transfer of power, basically if you use a busbar, your never gonna have to upgrade as its the best way of linking batteries. Plus it makes it look real good with out all the wires Oh btw if you do decide to go for busbars I would go for aluminium Its only slightly less conductive than copper and for the money difference between them its worth going with alu, coppers real expensive these days plus you can polish aluminium up to near chrome like mirror copper tends to tarnish and go off colour as time passes. Edited June 6, 2011 by Emmet Quote i shook this one kids hand and it just folded in mine. long story short i fucked his girlfriendso.. yeah.. You want this to happen to you? Give decent handshakes people. I was gifted with an innate ability to distribute wholesale ass beatings in a timely and orderly fashion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BozzMazzi Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Looks alone is good enough to me. I got 1/4" copper bar, bronze hardware( nuts, washers, and bolts) in 50 piece packs from McMaster-Carr's website. All for 45$. Cleaned up the wiring, copper looks sexy, and not to mention the copper is a great conductor. Well worth it to me. Thanks for the site info. I was thinking about the look factor and that is a very strong draw... I know copper is more conductive to aluminum (second to silver) but i'm not a huge fan of that color, do you think that there would be much of a difference if I went with aluminum opposed to the copper? Quote 2002 Suburban on 24s (2) RF 2500bdcp's (1) DC Power 270xp alt (for system only) (4) Kinetik Racing KR3112 batteries (1) JL Audio A4300 (1) Focal K1 component sets (rears) (1) Q Logic kick panel 6 1/2" pods (4) Eminence 6 1/2's speakers (fronts) (6) Selenium Super Tweeters (2) Sundown Audio Nightshade hybrid 18s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 (edited) 5 batteries in series? hmmm.... i think not. bus bars are mostly a look thing. copper is way more conductive than aluminum. Edited June 6, 2011 by skittlesRgood Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowpt Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Looks alone is good enough to me. I got 1/4" copper bar, bronze hardware( nuts, washers, and bolts) in 50 piece packs from McMaster-Carr's website. All for 45$. Cleaned up the wiring, copper looks sexy, and not to mention the copper is a great conductor. Well worth it to me. I love me some Mcmaster-Carr!!Great prices and SUPER-fast shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
memphisBred Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 I chose the metal I thought looked better(copper). If I thought aluminum looked better I would have chose it. The conductivity isn't big enough factor to sway me. Quote SMD Super Seller/Buyer Audison----Hertz----Rainbow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BozzMazzi Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Just depends on what set up your running really A lot of them are just for show but once you get into big power the physics of it comes into play. Like through copper wire, running a lot of power will make it get hot, heat is something you dont want as it means wasted power, busbars are really good ways of dissipating heat and getting real efficient transfer of power, basically if you use a busbar, your never gonna have to upgrade as its the best way of linking batteries. Plus it makes it look real good with out all the wires Oh btw if you do decide to go for busbars I would go for aluminium Its only slightly less conductive than copper and for the money difference between them its worth going with alu, coppers real expensive these days plus you can polish aluminium up to near chrome like mirror copper tends to tarnish and go off colour as time passes. I would like to not have to upgrade after this as I want to be done with my electrical once I get my Singer alt (350a and my current DC 270xp) 3 runs of 0awg per +/- . I am apprehensive about the heat that may be produced but I do not think that I will be near the power load that would cause a great deal of heat... or so I hope. I like the look of the aluminum more and the price variance is just Quote 2002 Suburban on 24s (2) RF 2500bdcp's (1) DC Power 270xp alt (for system only) (4) Kinetik Racing KR3112 batteries (1) JL Audio A4300 (1) Focal K1 component sets (rears) (1) Q Logic kick panel 6 1/2" pods (4) Eminence 6 1/2's speakers (fronts) (6) Selenium Super Tweeters (2) Sundown Audio Nightshade hybrid 18s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BozzMazzi Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 (edited) 5 batteries in series? hmmm.... i think not. bus bars are mostly a look thing. copper is way more conductive than aluminum. I might have meant to say parallel ( but they are positive to positive, negative to negative) I always get those confused... Edited June 6, 2011 by BozzMazzi Quote 2002 Suburban on 24s (2) RF 2500bdcp's (1) DC Power 270xp alt (for system only) (4) Kinetik Racing KR3112 batteries (1) JL Audio A4300 (1) Focal K1 component sets (rears) (1) Q Logic kick panel 6 1/2" pods (4) Eminence 6 1/2's speakers (fronts) (6) Selenium Super Tweeters (2) Sundown Audio Nightshade hybrid 18s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 depending on the type of aluminum it can easily be half as conductive as copper. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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