Emmet Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 (edited) Actually just done quick maths and at max power from the amps and 14.6 volts the draw would be 95ish amps, would that be enough to melt the 4 awg? Never seen that before so just wondering for anyone that has edit: nvm just read the rest, guess it seems was bad connection instead ^ ^ Edited June 14, 2011 by Emmet Quote i shook this one kids hand and it just folded in mine. long story short i fucked his girlfriendso.. yeah.. You want this to happen to you? Give decent handshakes people. I was gifted with an innate ability to distribute wholesale ass beatings in a timely and orderly fashion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 ive seen it before. bad connection. ^^^^this. melted fuse holders come from a bad connection, usually a fuse, or the wire into the fuse holder is not completly tight. When the connection is being moved around having less contact more current is trying to flow thru smaller amounts of material creating heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrosetiger Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 looks like a bad connection to the positive terminal to me. Might want to switch those out for proper ones as well. Quote 1998 Plymouth Voyager (daily) Jensen VM9213 H.U. (I Know but I havent had any problems.... yet) 5.25" Factory -> Sound Stream SST5.2 6x9 Hifonics ZXi 693 -> Sound Stream SST6.9 Amp: Class D: Crescendo 3KWP (x2) Class A/B: Crescendo 1000C4 Sub: Almani S-7 10" (x6) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoudBimmer Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 it's cheaper to replace a fuse then call fire department better to install smaller fuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrosetiger Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Actually just done quick maths and at max power from the amps and 14.6 volts the draw would be 95ish amps, would that be enough to melt the 4 awg? Never seen that before so just wondering for anyone that has edit: nvm just read the rest, guess it seems was bad connection instead ^ ^ 4 awg SHOULD be able to hold up to 135 amps. So yeah the 150 fuse was to big in the first place. This all depends on the wire though. Quote 1998 Plymouth Voyager (daily) Jensen VM9213 H.U. (I Know but I havent had any problems.... yet) 5.25" Factory -> Sound Stream SST5.2 6x9 Hifonics ZXi 693 -> Sound Stream SST6.9 Amp: Class D: Crescendo 3KWP (x2) Class A/B: Crescendo 1000C4 Sub: Almani S-7 10" (x6) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Actually just done quick maths and at max power from the amps and 14.6 volts the draw would be 95ish amps, would that be enough to melt the 4 awg? Never seen that before so just wondering for anyone that has edit: nvm just read the rest, guess it seems was bad connection instead ^ ^ when you did the math did you assume 100% efficiency? Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 its not the fuse fuck me. its the connection. if its slightly loose that will happen. I actually saw one that was melted completely solid. it was one of the bullet shaped ones with screw on end caps and the thing melted completely solid. Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 it's cheaper to replace a fuse then call fire department better to install smaller fuse. Installing a smaller fuse wont do anything if its not tight.... The same thing will happen. If you think its the fuse that caused this, then why did the fuse block melt before the fuse even seen the current, not after the fuse, or the fuse itself???? Thus alone proves its not the fuse, or the gauge of the wire. If the wire is too small the wire would be melted (even if he had an 80 amp fuse in there) most people dont understand how much current you can suck thru an 80 amp fuse, and yea its a lot more then 200+ amps before that 80 amp fuse will blow, and usually by that time the wire will be so hot the casing is like a soft wire just waiting to find a ground source to create some welding action and possibly a fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iKidwell Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 it's cheaper to replace a fuse then call fire department better to install smaller fuse. A call to the fire department is free lol Quote c'mon now, if i was shooting an 8 year old, it wouldnt be MY 8 year old. i recently got a Pyle PL1590BL and i was building an enclosure for it tuned to 25 hz. i didn't have any tools to cut a circle so i hit it with a big hammer. 2003 Infiniti G35 Sport Sedan Build in Progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackedout Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Replace the wire and route the fuse holder in a loop futher away from the engine. Is that a fuse holder that doesn't require ring terminals similar to this: http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Amplifier-Fuse-Holder/NEW-TSUNAMI-FBW701-ANL-1-0-OR-4-GAUGE-FUSE-HOLDER/FBW701-ANL.aspx Does a grub screw or the actual screw that holds the fuse in place hold that wire into the fuse block? Kinda hard to tell, but I don't see a ring terminal on the output side so I'm assuming it's a possibility. If it is, that wire shouldn't have been tinned, which by the looks of it there's solder all over the place. Tinning wire like that reduces the amount of surface area that contacts the terminal, increasing resistance and creating heat. Once the solder melts down, the wire isn't the same diameter as it was before because the solder get sucked up the wire. What you're left with once the wire gets hot is a loose connection... and more resistance. If that setup uses a ring terminal, at least you know... don't tin wires that go into blocks like that. Route that wire as far from the engine as you can. If it means using some extra wire and taking a loop around the back side of the battery, do it. Fasten the fuse block securely to something so it's not hanging. Quote Trunk Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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