finkster Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 You shouldn't drop at 12 :/ Maybe more grounds or bad grounds what good would just replacing the grounds do? theres 2 sides of a battery. Are your batteries healthy? never had an issue with them before, before they went in they were all at 12.7/12.8 i cant even pull the alt and get it tested locally..no one can "load" it over 150A lol i would have personally went with an alt that does great amperage at idle. he doesnt play it at idle engine rpms. Upgrade your wire. I'm almost 100% sure KCA isn't rated for that much amperage. And I know you said you already checked your wire, but check again. Mine was low a few days ago and I just tightened the bolt a tiny bit and it made a huge difference. And I don't think amperage pull by an amp changes a whole lot from 1ohm to .5ohms. But even if it does, the amp alone can almost keep the voltage staying where it's at. No one can ever have too much wiring. That amp is pulling a TON of current below 1 ohm, but that doesnt mean its putting out a ton more power. The lower the load, the less efficient. But say for sake that you're pulling 50 more amps than at 1 ohm....that puts you at 430 amps of current. Add on at least another 60 amps for the mids and highs amp. Then there's other misc things like ignition that uses 30 more amps....That puts you in the 500s for amperage. I agree with more wiring. I wouldnt want to back my expensive system with sub par CCA wiring. Send the alt in for testing if you think its not putting out the power you paid for. DAT 4125------>RE XXX comps active Eclipse cd7000 I serve drunks for a living Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berto Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 Upgrade your wire. I'm almost 100% sure KCA isn't rated for that much amperage. And I know you said you already checked your wire, but check again. Mine was low a few days ago and I just tightened the bolt a tiny bit and it made a huge difference. And I don't think amperage pull by an amp changes a whole lot from 1ohm to .5ohms. But even if it does, the amp alone can almost keep the voltage staying where it's at. No one can ever have too much wiring. That amp is pulling a TON of current below 1 ohm, but that doesnt mean its putting out a ton more power. The lower the load, the less efficient. But say for sake that you're pulling 50 more amps than at 1 ohm....that puts you at 430 amps of current. Add on at least another 60 amps for the mids and highs amp. Then there's other misc things like ignition that uses 30 more amps....That puts you in the 500s for amperage. I agree with more wiring. I wouldnt want to back my expensive system with sub par CCA wiring. Send the alt in for testing if you think its not putting out the power you paid for. I agree that there's never too much wiring, but it's better fir him to check what he has now before spending unnecessary money. And even at 5xx amp draw, that means the batts have to make up for about 100 amps tops. So voltage drop shouldn't be too bad. TEAM FLEX ISSUES Car: 1985 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royal 24" Rims HU: 7" Carputer, Planet Audio EQ, iPhone. Coax: T3 Audio 4" speakers Subs: 2x 18" T3 Audio TSNS (walled) Sub Amp: DC 9k SOON TO COME T3 Audio 6x9s MB Quarts 6.5" comp set MAYBE ADDED 2nd DC 9k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UnderLoK Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 I think the whole thing boils down to the amp running at .5, but... If your grounding in the front (from the rear batts) to your front bus your problem might be you need more grounds. If you only have 2 runs from the front bus to the frame and ground everything to that bus you need more. 2 grounds for the alt (alt-bus-frame) and 2 for the rear (rear-bus-frame) for 4 total going from battery to frame. If at first you do not succeed, you are doing it wrong! -ARSCheck out my walled TBSS build over here4 Fi Team 18s on 2 Cactus K9 DS18 doors on 2 MBQ 1Ks, Vifa pillars on a STL4.500 Pioneer X8500 6 XS Power D7500, 1 3400S Second Skin 2 270a Mechman Alts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_racin4 Posted July 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 even at 1 ohm, it was just as bad i started with just 2 runs one pos, one neg. added more, no change i have 2 grounds from alt to buss bar in front, in the rear, from the back batts i have 2 runs of pos. and neg. to the buss bars inside the only thing i can think of is buss bar to frame which i think only has 1 ground, even when i was running an atomic 7k in my last car, i has 1/3 the electrical i have now and it wasnt nearly as bad as what i have now... 1998 gmc extd cab 12 crossfire C710s 4 SAZ-4500s 3 Singer 400A altsbuncha mids/highs Team Asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 its not because the amp is at .5ohm. i had two 3ks at .5 on the electrical in my sig dropping to 12v. now for amperage draw it seems like everyone forgot about imp rise. lets do the math, lets say at .5ohm its supposed to do 4500w and we will say its 70% efficient and 12v. that means a 535amp draw. now lets say after imp rise you see 2000w. with the same math it comes to 238amps. this doesnt tell you what the problem is but it does tell you its probably not too much power for the electrical you are supposed to have. i would find a clamp meter and test your alt yourself. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_racin4 Posted July 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 clammped power iss at 30hz i get 2600 and at 45hz i get about 1k that was wired at .67 though. how would i go about clamping the alt? just put the clamp around the alt charge wire? 1998 gmc extd cab 12 crossfire C710s 4 SAZ-4500s 3 Singer 400A altsbuncha mids/highs Team Asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berto Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 clammped power iss at 30hz i get 2600 and at 45hz i get about 1k that was wired at .67 though. how would i go about clamping the alt? just put the clamp around the alt charge wire? Wow. Then there might be something wrong with your alt, because "in theory" you wouldn't even need back batts and still have minimal voltage draw because you alt is supplying a higher amperage than what is being drawn. (not recommended though) TEAM FLEX ISSUES Car: 1985 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royal 24" Rims HU: 7" Carputer, Planet Audio EQ, iPhone. Coax: T3 Audio 4" speakers Subs: 2x 18" T3 Audio TSNS (walled) Sub Amp: DC 9k SOON TO COME T3 Audio 6x9s MB Quarts 6.5" comp set MAYBE ADDED 2nd DC 9k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 clammped power iss at 30hz i get 2600 and at 45hz i get about 1k that was wired at .67 though. how would i go about clamping the alt? just put the clamp around the alt charge wire? yes, as long as you have a DC meter. be sure to get every wire from the alt + into the clamp at the same time. dont do the 1/0 only and leave out a stock wire if there is one. clammped power iss at 30hz i get 2600 and at 45hz i get about 1k that was wired at .67 though. how would i go about clamping the alt? just put the clamp around the alt charge wire? Wow. Then there might be something wrong with your alt, because "in theory" you wouldn't even need back batts and still have minimal voltage draw because you alt is supplying a higher amperage than what is being drawn. (not recommended though) exactly. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EclipseChris Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 How sure are you that your not clipping? Even a soft clip can draw more current and produce more power exponentially. i resolve to be a nicer moderator. Tercel build R.I.P. Eclipse build Old New V-Dub My feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_racin4 Posted July 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 I hope its not the alt lol, being in canada ill be out of an alt for a whilee. gunna add another ground in front and try again 1998 gmc extd cab 12 crossfire C710s 4 SAZ-4500s 3 Singer 400A altsbuncha mids/highs Team Asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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