kickass audio Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 im 99% sure i will with the car off. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 LOL this is the headunit I want to get I just remember this from SoundDomain: i've noticed a lot of people having issues with getting sudden alternator noise with their pioneer headunit. if you suddenly get alternator noise, you probably popped the microfuse inside the deck thanks to a poor ground. with a pioneer you MUST ground the chassis of the headunit to the chassis of your vehicle. same with the main ground. if you don't, you will pop that microfuse that's less than half the size of an eyelash. with this fuse popped the headunit tries to seek a ground through the rca's. this can wear out your speakers a lot faster than they should because of constant flutter. any authorized pioneer benchtech can fix this problem in less than an hour if he can get right to it. just taking a couple extra steps during the install will save a lot of headaches later on. you have gotta be fucking kidding me? a ground from the actual body of the unit to the vehicle's chassis? is this what that means? Edit: going to check if it does it with the car off...I hope it does. for the love of God dont worry. a fuse wont pop because of too much resistance somewhere else. thats just stupid. we all know fuses are to protect against shorts and over current. the fuse pops because people short their RCAs while hot swapping. sorry, i didnt think the 3200 had 4v preouts. i hope bypassing the amp work for you. those noises piss me off too. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That1Kid Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 I listened to it a little closer today, and it definitely DOES get louder as the volume increases...I can hear it over the music. And it still makes the noise with the car off. Gonna check my grounds tomorrow. Hopefully I can clear this up. -98' Ford Expedition (Rest in Peace) -AVH-P3300BT -Crescendo BC5500 -4 18" DC m2 Level 3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Its got to be the stock amp, not trying to be a dick but the ones from the factory arent worth shit. If you can, get a good 4 channel amp (i love my dc audio 175.4 with my 3sixty.2) and you will be pleased with the results to say the least. Just upgrading to a good amp will improve quality and power so much that you will wonder why you never used a amp on your door speakers. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That1Kid Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Oh I know it's a piece of shit amp haha. So if the hiss gets louder with the volume, it's for sure 100% the amp? Guess I gotta work on bypassing the bitch to.orrow -98' Ford Expedition (Rest in Peace) -AVH-P3300BT -Crescendo BC5500 -4 18" DC m2 Level 3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Thats what ive found with stock amps. Now what you mean is when you turn up the volume, the hiss noise still plays with or without music playing? I only heard the hiss with either really low music or no music playing at any volume. Now depending on where your amp is mounted (sometimes they shove them under a seat but for my cars, they are on the rear hatch) but you can disconnect the main harness going to them and it shouldnt play any music and the hiss should go away. Have you tried to connect the speakers directly to the amp like i suggested earlier? I would try that before you start screwing around with bypassing the stock amp or anything. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That1Kid Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Ya, if the volume is on 0, no hiss. The hiss gets louder and louder as the volume is increased. The factory amp is in the steering column in my truck. Ya, I'm gonna try everything today. -98' Ford Expedition (Rest in Peace) -AVH-P3300BT -Crescendo BC5500 -4 18" DC m2 Level 3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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