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Mechman Alternators

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your engine is bogging down because the voltage drop is so much. do u have the + - runs straight from the battery to the amp?

2007 caliber

2 Fi ssd 18's

rd audio 3250

xs power d3100 (need 2 more)

stock alt (soon to be singer 350a)

2.75:1 4th order in progress!

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Mechman alts don't get full output at idle. They get full output just under 2000 rmps. Try revving and see if that helps.

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Viper 5902, big 3, 1/0 Rockford wiring, 2 xs d3100, mechman 300a, pioneer avic-z1, 2 dc 12xls, Rockford t2500.1bdcp, Rockford t1000.4ad, Rockford t2 6.5 comps, damplifier

Build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/102584-carbon-fusion/

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Does it do it all the time, even when your not playing your system? Does it steadily drop to 12.5 or just kinda spike down there. You know, I had the same issue with my DC alt. I called and talked to them and they said that my truck (2006 yukon) has a feature which if 14 volts is not required, the ECM will drop the voltage slowly to 12.5v for fuel economy. I thought they were full of shit, until a friend of mine looked into it some more and sure enough DC was right. I also run two xs3400's on a crescendo 3k at .5ohm, and i still sometimes drop to 12.5. after say 1-2min, the voltage will start to increase slightly until it stabilizes around 14.3ish. This may also be the same for your impala.

No it only does it when the system it at full tilt and it just spikes down to 12.5 v. Maybe it could be a ecm problem

Edited by NightmareImpala

TEAM DISTANT THUNDER

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With how your engine "bogs down" when you hit the bass at full tilt while only at idle this WILL happen when your voltage drops. The reason for it is that your alternator is demanding a higher output or else it cannot produce the amperage to charge your batteries. With this demand for high speed on the pulley, if you are at idle, it will call for high speed to charge back up and if you dont have that speed, it will put a ton of strain on the pulley of your alternator to try and get as much power as it can from the windings.

Now i want to see if you can do this...

Have your car off for awhile and let the engine get cold. Start the engine up and do NOT bump your system, just run the car for 5-10 minutes. Then feel your alternator, it should be cool to the touch, if its hot then its bad.

Also if you have a multimeter, check the resistance of all your power and ground wires, it should not exceed .1-.2 ohms. If it does then that wire is wired poorly.

I will try that tomorrow morning

TEAM DISTANT THUNDER

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I see that you said that the big 3 is done in 0g, but is the wiring from the batt's to amp also 0g?

2006 GMC Yukon
Pioneer HU

SHCA ran throughout

Crescendo BC3500

One 18 AA Mayhem in a 4th order

ZED Levithian 6 channel

Rainbow Dual 6.5 comps ran Active
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http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/155628-matt14s-yukon-mayhem-in-a-4th-ordernew-amps-and-bats/page-3

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I have a mechman 270 amp alternator in my 2005 lS with a mechman adjustable voltage boost module set to charge at 14.8 hot...

Current setup is 2 xs power d3400 batteries

1 aq2200

Big 3 done with 0 gauge kicker hyperflex wire

And 2 btl 15's

Is it normal to have my voltage drop to 12.5 at idle with the system at full tilt? I wanna add a 2nd aq2200 and I am worried that my voltage will drop even more. When I hit the gas pedal and keep it at around 1500rpm the voltage stays in the mid 14's but I just want some outside input on this..

Thats what I am wondering. What else could it be? My engine def bogs down when I am at full tilt too maybe that has something to do with it?

Do you have the 1/0 cable from Alt+ to Batt+ and from the alternator case or mounting bolt to Batt - as recommended?

You will experience more voltage drop playing at idle, especially if you are idling at the typical speed of new cars down around 5-600rpm.

If your system is drawing more power than your system can produce at idle you will see voltage drop. Your alternator isn't going to perform at it's peak at idle, it's not designed that way and if played that way for long periods it can damage the alternator.

As for the "bog", that's due to the increased load on the engine from the alternator. That's a good example of one of the reasons you don't want a high-output alternator making too much power down low. Slowing your engine at idle could cause a stall, so the turn-on speed needs to be carefully considered to prevent that unsafe condition.

No it only does it when the system it at full tilt and it just spikes down to 12.5 v. Maybe it could be a ecm problem

It's not recommended to play your system at high output at idle. Almost every new car idles under the turn-on speed for the alternator to improve idle quality, reduce idle fuel consumption and reduce idle emissions.

When you pick up the engine speed you will be able to see the full output of the alternator and the alternator will be able to stay cooler as the internal fans will be up to speed, that is why you are seeing proper voltage at that time.

You may also want to properly charge and test your batteries.

Remember that alternators are not designed to recharge your batteries when they are low, they are designed to maintain battery voltage. If you play it down too far you will want to charge it properly or you will risk damaging ANY alternator.

Edited by MECHMAN
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Thank you for all the advice. I will run a zero gauge cable to the alt mounting bolt to - battery terminal because I didnt think I needed one with my ground mounted where the factory mounted a ground to the engine block(which I did clean and make sure it was solid). I will also avoid playing music at high volume at idle speeds. It def performs great when I increase the rpm's to around 1500 - 2000 rpm. I am very pleased with my mechman alternator just so you know. Great customer service. Thank you for your timely response

TEAM DISTANT THUNDER

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