Stee-Z Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 I will be running a 9515 DD on an AQ 2200.. big 3 is done........... i work at a shop and i can get optima for about 100 cheaper than normal. So the most xpensive optima i was looking at was 1100 CCA....... would this battery work for my system in the back without major voltage drops?? i just really wanna no cuz if this batetry will work my system will be hooked up by tomorow or wendsday instead of 3 weeks from now. Thanks YOU! Quote (4)DD 9918's (2)DC 10k 8 6.5" focals 2 DD SS4 mid amps Audison Bit One processor Jl-cl-rlc line driver iPad in dash Dual Irragi 320a alts 8 batcaps 4000's Second Skin sound deadened Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 you just started a war! what optima is it? yellow, red or blue? Quote F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stee-Z Posted August 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 =) yellow lol.. i can get any of them but i heard yellow is best for audio am i correct? lol Quote (4)DD 9918's (2)DC 10k 8 6.5" focals 2 DD SS4 mid amps Audison Bit One processor Jl-cl-rlc line driver iPad in dash Dual Irragi 320a alts 8 batcaps 4000's Second Skin sound deadened Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 i think, but don't take my word for it. Quote F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkindle613 Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 i would go ahead and throw one of those yellow tops in for now, and if you have real bad voltage drop, get another yellow top and throw in there. if you can get em for $100-$150. i would buy those all day.. but i am a cheap ass though. Quote WARNING: I speak 4 languages, profanity, English, sarcasm & real shit 2003 ford explorer 2 RF T1 D4 15s in a 6.8 cubic ft box 1 T1500.1bdcp 250amp ALT by Mike Singer 2 runs of 0 gauge 3 yellow tops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stee-Z Posted August 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 haha ok ...... cuz then i can enter SOTM!!! YAYAYA HAH I HOPE I WIN =P.. to bad prob not my first build, but oh well its actualy the first ive ever even messed with a system so im prouyd of myself lol! Quote (4)DD 9918's (2)DC 10k 8 6.5" focals 2 DD SS4 mid amps Audison Bit One processor Jl-cl-rlc line driver iPad in dash Dual Irragi 320a alts 8 batcaps 4000's Second Skin sound deadened Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stee-Z Posted August 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 haha and yes i can get for 190.. but the best one is 240.. our retail for the best one is like 380 lol! Quote (4)DD 9918's (2)DC 10k 8 6.5" focals 2 DD SS4 mid amps Audison Bit One processor Jl-cl-rlc line driver iPad in dash Dual Irragi 320a alts 8 batcaps 4000's Second Skin sound deadened Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azagtoth502 Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 From Optimas site..... "RedTop: Use this for normal engine starting where an alternator immediately monitors the state of charge and provides energy to the battery whenever it is needed. This would describe most stock vehicles. Automotive and RV under-hood starting Heavy equipment where starting is the primary function Diesel powered vehicles with no aftermarket electronics YellowTop: Use this when electrical loads are higher than average, or when the discharge cycle is more than typical engine starting, such as vehicles without alternators. This also includes vehicles with significant electrical loads that may exceed the average alternator output (for example aftermarket audio system, GPS, chargers, winch, snowplow, inverters, drag cars). This can also include vehicles that have a lot of electronics from the factory, such as a minivan with power sliding doors and a DVD player, especially if the DVD player is used when the engine isn’t running. Racing vehicles without a charging system (alternator or generator) Dedicated drag racing vehicles Diesel powered vehicles with aftermarket electronics Car audio/video applications exceeding 250 watts over the OE system Vehicles or heavy equipment with inverters, hydraulics, winches or other accessories Electric vehicles BlueTop: The BlueTop starting battery (dark gray case) is to be used when a dedicated starting battery is required and it should never be used for cycling duty. The dual purpose BlueTop (light gray case) can be used for both starting and deep cycling; it is a true deep cycle battery with extremely high cranking power. Trolling motors, marine applications with heavy electrical accessories and RVs should use a dual purpose BlueTop (which is both a starting and deep cycle battery) Use a BlueTop starting battery for marine applications and RVs when the battery’s only function is engine starting Note: The difference between BlueTop and YellowTop deep cycle batteries is that BlueTop batteries have both automotive (SAE) posts and threaded posts, while YellowTops (other than D31T) only have SAE posts. If you ever get confused on the color tops just remember: if it has a dark gray case then it is a starting battery; if it has a light gray case then it is a deep cycle (dual purpose) battery. Quote pa-pa-platypus sorry not everybody has a companies nuts so far down their throat they catch every drop ball sweat when it falls Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stee-Z Posted August 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 From Optimas site..... "RedTop: Use this for normal engine starting where an alternator immediately monitors the state of charge and provides energy to the battery whenever it is needed. This would describe most stock vehicles. Automotive and RV under-hood starting Heavy equipment where starting is the primary function Diesel powered vehicles with no aftermarket electronics YellowTop: Use this when electrical loads are higher than average, or when the discharge cycle is more than typical engine starting, such as vehicles without alternators. This also includes vehicles with significant electrical loads that may exceed the average alternator output (for example aftermarket audio system, GPS, chargers, winch, snowplow, inverters, drag cars). This can also include vehicles that have a lot of electronics from the factory, such as a minivan with power sliding doors and a DVD player, especially if the DVD player is used when the engine isn’t running. Racing vehicles without a charging system (alternator or generator) Dedicated drag racing vehicles Diesel powered vehicles with aftermarket electronics Car audio/video applications exceeding 250 watts over the OE system Vehicles or heavy equipment with inverters, hydraulics, winches or other accessories Electric vehicles BlueTop: The BlueTop starting battery (dark gray case) is to be used when a dedicated starting battery is required and it should never be used for cycling duty. The dual purpose BlueTop (light gray case) can be used for both starting and deep cycling; it is a true deep cycle battery with extremely high cranking power. Trolling motors, marine applications with heavy electrical accessories and RVs should use a dual purpose BlueTop (which is both a starting and deep cycle battery) Use a BlueTop starting battery for marine applications and RVs when the battery’s only function is engine starting Note: The difference between BlueTop and YellowTop deep cycle batteries is that BlueTop batteries have both automotive (SAE) posts and threaded posts, while YellowTops (other than D31T) only have SAE posts. If you ever get confused on the color tops just remember: if it has a dark gray case then it is a starting battery; if it has a light gray case then it is a deep cycle (dual purpose) battery. ok cool thanks.... so you think the 1100 cca deep cycle would be good ? if not could i atleast run it for a month or to before i get another one 0_o Quote (4)DD 9918's (2)DC 10k 8 6.5" focals 2 DD SS4 mid amps Audison Bit One processor Jl-cl-rlc line driver iPad in dash Dual Irragi 320a alts 8 batcaps 4000's Second Skin sound deadened Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stee-Z Posted August 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=NBRN9931AYEL_0006514864&An=0.. it is this one 0_o Quote (4)DD 9918's (2)DC 10k 8 6.5" focals 2 DD SS4 mid amps Audison Bit One processor Jl-cl-rlc line driver iPad in dash Dual Irragi 320a alts 8 batcaps 4000's Second Skin sound deadened Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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