BJD3 Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 (edited) I'll just say this. Put your Mechanical Engineering degree to the side. Car audio is not rocket science, at all. You made my brain hurt reading that. Not from lack of understanding what you meant, but understanding why you think you need to do all this fanciness for car audio. Because a car is a terrible, terrible listening environment. Road/wind noise, off axis speakers, various acoustical barriers and reflectors... You want to get as stable a platform as you can. You begin this by ensuring the car itself doesn't interfere with the sounds you're trying to reproduce. You can't eliminate all negative factors, but by eliminating what you can, you make the best of a bad situation. Edited August 21, 2011 by BJD3 Quote Anti Peel and Seal...lol You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive. 2002 Buick Park Avenue DC Level 4 M2 12 D2 Car Audio Bargain 1600.1 Eclipse CD3200 ~2 cubes @ 34 hz. Stinger Roadkill Expert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonedeaf Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 I'll just say this. Put your Mechanical Engineering degree to the side. Car audio is not rocket science, at all. You made my brain hurt reading that. Not from lack of understanding what you meant, but understanding why you think you need to do all this fanciness for car audio. You clearly dont know what goes into a new product in car audio, or designing a quality speaker/sub. Its goddamn near rocket science. I dont know how doing something the RIGHT way is 'fanciness'. If car audio wasnt about 'fanciness' as you proclaim all the pros would simply strap cinderblocks to their panels for 'mass loading'. There is a scientific background to everything about car audio, even TRUE CLD vibration dampening mats. Sticking foil on a sticky substance and calling it deadening is not how this works. If it was id eat a fuckton of hershy kisses and stick them on to double sided foam. TADA, NEW SOUND DEADENING MAMA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smitty2919 Posted August 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 (edited) Thanks a lot Tonedeaf and everyone else posting, that's the kind of info I want to read. And yes car audio and soundwaves etc are not as simple as most people think. I have made my own systems before in my cars (nothing crazy or even competitively) but a nice upgrade TO ME, but sound proofing is something I have never touched. My main goal is to quiet down the exhaust drone, if I get an increase in sound quality then that's just a bonus. But in the end sound is sound and vibration is vibration regardless if it's caused by exhaust pulses or subwoofer pulses. Anyone have links to tests that were well put together showing before and after results? Edited August 21, 2011 by smitty2919 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonedeaf Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 (edited) You cant really get before after results when comparing different deadeners. The camera cant pickup what your ears would hear when it comes to a change to the sound of the system. But google it and you can find before/after results of deadening. If you are wanting to get rid of all exterior sound (you wouldnt believe your ears the difference it will make) do your floor in a quality deadener. One QUALITY deadener I use is second skin. Many products cant compare, but when they do alot are in fact more expensive. Dynamat is quality stuff but their extreme is more expensive than SS and doesnt compare to damp pro from what I hear. Id do a pack of alpha damp and do as much coverage on the floor as you feel comfortable, atleast following the 25% coverage baseline. Then get a pack of their MLV (mass loaded vinyl), luxury liner or luxury liner pro. While the sound deadening will hinder the vibrations cause by rocks and debree hitting the underside of the car, etc, the LL or LLP will actually 'absorb' higher freuencies and airborne noises that the deadener wont stop such as some noise from your exhaust and just road noise. That stuff = amazing. The difference between LL and LLP is LLP actually has an added closed cell foam layer to lift it off the floor to give it a much better chance at stopping many of the sounds we dont want to hear in our car. As for before and after, heres one of regular damplifier on the roof: Edited August 21, 2011 by tonedeaf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonedeaf Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 Btw, heres aother great website to read and get info on, and his CLD tiles are very high quality as well. Sound Deadener Showdown Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogen Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 Btw, heres aother great website to read and get info on, and his CLD tiles are very high quality as well. Sound Deadener Showdown the best... Don is amazing... :drink40: Quote Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear) beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michigancapri92 Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 use peal and seal ... it is hands down the best product you can use for your roof, it stops leaks, protects your wood, and is a great product to use over tar mat when used under shingles, it can also quiet the sound of rain hitting your roof !!! as for your car i would use second skin... it is pricey but you get what you pay for !! i used edead45 on my car and it was affective and it did work but it did not kill my exhaust drone or my engine noise. yes it stopped vibration so would any product if you put many layers of duct tape and foil tape on your car it would stop vibration but thats not the only thing second skin does to your car... save up your money like i am doing and do it right the first time like i chose not to do so now im spending my weekends peeling of a shit ton of edead and saving my money for a bunch of different second skin products i will be using together for the best results ... Use damplifier Pro for your doors roof trunk underbody Use spectrum to cover your doors better the underbody of your car and wheel wells for added sound deadening/barrier and protect from rust and in the trunk for added sound deadening and sealing off the trunk like i will use luxury liner pro for the BEST results of a sound barrier on the floor of the car and the floor of your trunk make your car sound louder and cleaer and when the music is off make her quiet like a Rolls Royce Quote Teamcapri.comThe TeamCapri 1992 Mercury Capri XR22012 FORD EDGE SQ BUILDOld build logMy FeedBack1992 Mercury capri XR2 Hyper LED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Second Skin Rep Jon Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 Wow, some good info in here! We do have some customers that did some tests of before and after installing Second Skin in a multitude of vehicles, but nothing that compares X brand vs. Y brand. Now I did personally set forth to test and compare most of the brands out there to see how they perform, I just need to finish testing all of the brands I do have and compile the info. Just been a bit too busy to complete the task. Anyways, for exhaust drone I would go with 25% coverage of a high quality CLD mat (Dynamat, SDS CLD Tiles, Damplifier, Damplifier Pro, etc.) on the floor/trunk area followed up with a layer of mass loaded vinyl (MLV), such as Luxury Liner and Luxury Liner Pro. As always, feel free to drop me a line if you would like to discuss your needs further or get ahold of Don from SDS, either way you can't loose. Quote Have a question about Second Skin? E-Mail me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJD3 Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 Now I did personally set forth to test and compare most of the brands out there to see how they perform, I just need to finish testing all of the brands I do have and compile the info. Just been a bit too busy to complete the task. Just a question. How common do people have an issue reinstalling the interior after installing MLV because of the added thickness. Quote Anti Peel and Seal...lol You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive. 2002 Buick Park Avenue DC Level 4 M2 12 D2 Car Audio Bargain 1600.1 Eclipse CD3200 ~2 cubes @ 34 hz. Stinger Roadkill Expert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Second Skin Rep Jon Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 Just a question. How common do people have an issue reinstalling the interior after installing MLV because of the added thickness. lol, plan was to get all of the tests done this month. I still have a week and a half... Fitment issues kind of depend on the person and vehicle. There are some vehicles that can actually accommodate quite a lot of material behind their trim pieces without running into fitment issues. Then you have some people don't leave enough space (or cut a space) to bolt or clip things back together, so they have an issue putting seats, door panels, and other trim pieces back on. But most of the time you can get MLV installed, everything back together and looking factory. Quote Have a question about Second Skin? E-Mail me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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