Looking to replace current setup

[jeffm4688]

Hey,

I'm still kind of new here, but am currently hopefully looking for a little advice. I have a 4dr Chevy Cobalt and am looking to go a little bit bigger with my system. I'm currently running a Rockford T212D2 off a PX1.1300D amp in my car on all stock electrical, and whatever door speakers.

I'm looking replace this sub with something louder & deeper, I have a friend who I just set up and wired everything in a F150 and it consists of a DC level 4 15 & soon to be DC 2.0K. This sub, is not even broken in yet and I'm completely in love with it, it hits low, and the sound is just amazingly deep. It's currently in a 3.5 cubic foot box tuned to 32hz. I can't get enough of it.

My question is, I am looking to do something similar but am limited on space, while in the F150 we could just take a seat out, I can't. I am basically looking to put some kind of system in my car that is comparable to the level 4, and hits just as loud and low, if not lower. I am willing to take up the whole trunk, doesn't really matter to me, and I have between 8-9 cubes as a max.

Would it even be worth it for me to consider looking @ doing something like 2 DC level 3 15's ? Would I have enough airspace in my car to get that sub to sound good ? What would anyone recommend I do about where I should face my subs / port ?

[That1Kid]

Two Level 4 12s on 2k. That is, if you wanna stick with DC.

Not enough room for 15s.

[jeffm4688]

Two Level 4 12s on 2k. That is, if you wanna stick with DC.

Not enough room for 15s.

You think I'd be better off with 2 12's ? I assume those would be comparable to a single level 4 15 ?

I was considering facing these front ways, but positioning them a little bit back & then seal it off from the trunk with the subs / port facing forward. Would I see much of a difference ? My current Rockford sub I've had facing both front and back, and I personally like it facing the front more.

I've heard there really isn't much of a difference between 3 and 4's, I'd personally rather go 2 level 3 12's because of price, unless I would see a difference to warrent the extra almost $100 a sub. Would I see much of a difference ?

[TeamHT]

There are some things that jump out at me...what kind of enclosure? How is it firing? Can't really compare a trunk setup to a truck setup as an accurate indication of subwoofer performance. What voicecoil configuration is the sub? How were the settings on the amp set? What's your budget?

The RF T2 is a very decent woofer, and I would rather the T2 over a DC level 4, due to my personal tastes. It would be much easier and cheaper to get yourself a better amp, on beefier electrical, in an enclosure built to pressurize your cabin and give you the response you're looking for than to scrap everything and work from scratch.

When customers come by with good equipment, I try to advise them that maybe new subs aren't the answer to everything.

[jeffm4688]

There are some things that jump out at me...what kind of enclosure? How is it firing? Can't really compare a trunk setup to a truck setup as an accurate indication of subwoofer performance. What voicecoil configuration is the sub? How were the settings on the amp set? What's your budget?

The RF T2 is a very decent woofer, and I would rather the T2 over a DC level 4, due to my personal tastes. It would be much easier and cheaper to get yourself a better amp, on beefier electrical, in an enclosure built to pressurize your cabin and give you the response you're looking for than to scrap everything and work from scratch.

When customers come by with good equipment, I try to advise them that maybe new subs aren't the answer to everything.

I would happily advise you on all the design flaws as I already know a bunch of them.

My box sucks, it is a piece of crap, I bought the sub itself inside the box with 20 ft of 0 gauge wire for like $180, was a pretty good steal. The friggen kid I bought it off of told me the damn sub killed 2 alternators and how much of a beast it was etc, etc. and I was just like ok ill hook it up and take a look @ the coil and it all checked out and worked. The thing was so rigged, it had the little square box in the back where the banana connectors go and it was all ripped out and one broken off and idk if something ate the other part but there was a nice big corner of it missing. I took silicon and I sealed off all the holes and thats as good as I'll get it.

I personally want to go DC and stick with DC, I was seriously considering sticking with the T2, but for the price point I can sell this and almost buy 2 level 3 12's which can take just as much power (each) for the same price, personally I am looking for the bang for my buck territory.

I am on almost no budget (in my head I was thinking no more then $1000, Where I get ~$500 for this setup and invest $500) I have no source of income which is why I planned on selling the T2 and current amp (I have offers for $200 on the amp) and starting new.

My wiring is horrid, I have JL 4 guage currently hooked up to a piece of junk 2 Farad tsunami cap on a stock little 550CCA Ac Delco battery. My headunit is nice, I have a kenwood KIV-BT900, specifically bought something with 4V pre-outs. The sub is in a horrible box, and isn't in perfect condition ("dustcap" has a couple almost dings in the metal)

Right now the sub and port are firing toward the front of the car, which I like more then the rear (just switched it yesterday).

I've gone through a bunch of different cheapo setups in this car, couple junky kicker subs, couple JL subs and some rockford P3's. anything that comes across my way for a good price I will usually buy and then re-sell, like the $180 for this sub. Previous setup was a JL 15W0 I got for $100 and ended up selling for $180.

[That1Kid]

How can a sub kill an alternator?

Two 12s sealed at trunk firing into the cabin, ported into the cabin.

I'd get Level 4s if you're gonna be running 1k rms to each daily.

Get rid of the cap. Do the big 3 with 1/0. Get a good battery, and your electrical would be pretty solid.

[jeffm4688]

How can a sub kill an alternator?

Two 12s sealed at trunk firing into the cabin, ported into the cabin.

I'd get Level 4s if you're gonna be running 1k rms to each daily.

Get rid of the cap. Do the big 3 with 1/0. Get a good battery, and your electrical would be pretty solid.

The sub is a D2 ohm sub which was wired down to 1, he probably had a crappy amp that couldn't keep up and it would kill his alternator. he also gave me 20 feet of this bullz audio 1/0 junk.

Ill have to look into getting level 4's, gotta talk to my buddy whos a dealer and see what he says. I saw him last night and was asking what he thought about doing 15's, and he told me it would be extremely hard but possible. He also although, told me he has at times seen great numbers out of one 15.

I picked up a AQ 1200, capable of running one sub if i decide to go that rough, capable of being strapped with a second if I buy 2, or could always upgrade to a AQ 2200.