jeffm4688

Your best path to do this is to simply do a Big 3 (1/0 engine ground, 1/0 to your main battery, and 1/0 from your main battery ground to chassis) And then to run a 1/0 from the main battery positive to your rear battery positive. The whole point of a Big 3 is to in theory get maximum output from your alternator by increasing the wire size (causing less resistance)

I heard these on a 9K and they sounded amazing, these things are beasts.

Can you give me a quote on what an XL 18 would normally be to 11968 even though they are out of stock? And level 4 12's with upgraded soft parts ?

I was considering getting a Droid Bionic, I have a thunderbolt now. My only question though would be the screen quality ? Is it that bad ? I had a droid X and the quality of that screen was HORRIBLE. I hated it, if the bionic is as bad or worse I wouldn't even consider looking at buying it.

I agree he will be starving that amp with a big 3 and a battery. He should have at least a ~220-240A alt the biggest XS upfront with a D3400 or D3100 in the back and he should be fine drop wise. Of course that also assumes he has good solid grounds for everything as well. You dropping to below 12 with an after market alt on a 2500 kinda stinks, but then again your still running stock battery & sometimes that can bring down the whole setup.

Depends on if the carrier itself will allow you to activate a sprint ESN number and if they have the technology. If your porting a sprint phone to a non CDMA network (If the canadian carrier only offers you a sim card or requires a sim card to be in the phone) then you can't use a sprint phone.

Made that mistake within the first twenty minutes, but caught myself before the MOD's did lol.

Just recently got a mechman 270A for my `08 cobalt. Direct bolt on and it made my dimming go away completely. Pretty sure I have one of these newer units in my car cause you never made other units for my newer 08 2.2L ecotec?

I've had both a G25 and G27, kinda miss them. Probably the best gaming wheel but a little on the expensive side. Worth it if you have a place to mount everything up correctly.

+1 I think that you should look into a PS3 as well, the only downside about the blurays is the price of each movie, although, if you have a 3D capable TV I would go with a bluray player.

If you like to use your phone and actually have service you gotta go with a contract company. $279 to replace a phone is stupid, honestly, terminate the contact and buy another verizon phone or go with someone like at&t depending on service in your area. What kind of phone was it that you broke ? If you have your heart set on prepaid most prepaid providers run off the bigger carriers. I know boost is basically sprint can't think of the others and their networks off the top of my head

The iPhone 4 and 4s will both run on 4g network speeds, but do not display the 4G icon due to the lack of 4g coverage by AT&T and Verizon , the iPhone 5 will be a complete 4g phone http://www.freep.com/article/20111013/COL41/110130500/Mark-W-Smith-Which-iPhone-4S-should-you-get- http://www.apple.com/iphone/features/ Only the 4S has the HSDPA antenna, so the iPhone 4 won't benefit from the increased speed. And do keep in mind the numbers are theoretical maximums. Verizon threw over 100mb/s through their 4G LTE network, but due to many users's usage the most you'll reliably get out of it is ~20mb/s. It's faster 3G, but it's still 3G It really is too bad that the iPhone will not see 4g speeds, not the 4s anyway. Yes, it has the HSPA antennae in it, but thats mainly for at&t as the network is run by them, but is not 4G LTE. Two different technologies. At least some people will start seeing 14-15mb downloads with the 4S. provided HSPA+ is available in your area.

+1, unless you need crazy reliability, which DSL doesn't really offer compared to cable anymore then cable is your best bet. DSL is extremely slow compared to even the basic cable packages. I agree when you say DSL is not worth it, and that yes it is actually transmitted through ~22 gauge wire and is either one(green & red) or two (+black and yellow) twisted pairs which doesn't really give you much play to work with. Add in the older technology and your likely stuck behind something that doesn't have the ability to transmit data anywhere above 3MBPS, more like 1MBPS unless your very close to the main infrastructure building. The only thing I disagree with is AT&T U-verse, it is not DSL and is actually FTTH (Fiber to the home) and is capable of waaaaay faster speeds then the 12mbps they offer as a max speed on their best package. They actually run fiber right up to your house (verizon fios actually utilizes their speed and offers up to 100mbps I believe now) and then they throw it through an ONT and convert it to a coax signal. Kind of the same thing for cable, except its not really 40-50 wires, the coax line basically travels from your house into a splitter in the ground (or on the pole) and converts into a larger coax line till it hits the node in which fiber then takes over from that point. The problem with cable is the longer the run of coax the worse the signal & connection gets, which is why the connection speed fluctuates. Long story short: If you had verizon fios, I would go with that any day of the week, second though I would choose cable over U-Verse or DSL.

Ok, I was actually thinking the same thing, I was thinking 3-3.5 cubic foot though tuned to around 31 though. If I was looking to feed it less power, more around 1000W RMS, what do you think I should be looking at size and port wise ?

I have a friend with a full size pickup who has one of the seats folded down in the back with a JL W7 on it. He has a nice sub, with a nice amp (T1500-1bdcp) but he continues to blow the sub up. At this point, its in a 4.5 cubic foot box tuned to ~32 hz with like 9.36 port area per foot. He is feeding the sub around ~1500W RMS, I know these are designed to handle somewhere around that, but AFAIK these subs will also do well on ~1000W I'm looking to design a new box for this sub, can anyone add some insight on what kind of tuning I should be looking at and around what size would be good ? I can face the port and sub up or toward the rear(currently faced toward rear). Not sure, looking for anyone who has any kind of experience on how I should able to run this sub without blowing it up again, What size box could / would anyone suggest and what size port (or port area) should I be looking at ?

Looking for price on 2 DC level 4 12's, would also love a price with DC level 5 soft parts! zip: 11968 Thanks!

Personally, I think the first make everyone makes is centering it which makes it look busy. White space is a good thing!! lol. I just got into graphic design and have taken courses on it, my personal latest creation is : Personally, I like it, but I don't like it at the same time, but out of 20 concepts and a group of peers that is what everyone thought was best. On your card, I would use more then just black and white, and I would left align / right align the text. Or a combination of both ? Your name, which is what is supposed to "pop" in peoples head, when you hand them a card or shake hands and say your name thats what people should remember you by. Don't wanna seem like a kno it all by any means, as I do not know nearly anything, just trying to be helpful.

Knu (Knukonceptz.com) sells wire in 50 foot increments, are you looking for someone else who sells it ?

+1, was looking at going used, but would look at going new for a couple bucks off!

Pretty sure we haven't hit that point yet . Too bad, I lost a BRAND new freshly built computer 5 years ago when I was 15, was my 4th build (first one when I was 12). It was one of those huge full towers which weren't very popular at the time, and it had a fan at the top. Took my brother 30 minutes to spill a FULL glass of water down the top fan the company thought that they decided was placed so well. That sure was a smokin build.

This thing is going to scream, and I'm sure it will render video amazingly fast as the graphics cards as well as ram play a big part in that. of course this thing should be able to play any game on maxed out settings, this has gotta be amazingly fast.

Looks like a very clean build, my uncle is a trader and he just bought the 2600K as well and it is extremely powerful, he is running two graphics card to power 4 screens, too bad their all still VGA, although for what he is doing it doesn't make a big difference. His screams, as I'm sure yours does too! Good pick on the SSD, the Intels are fast, as well as the samsungs (I have a 128GB Samsung one) +1 on the second graphics card, can't go wrong especially with BF3 coming out later this month.

Personally I would go with a DC level 4 15 for that amount of power, rated @ 1000W but will take more without an issue. While I'm not box design specialist I think it should have a bigger port, that DC would slam the lows if in a box tuned to ~30-32hz (what you seem to be looking for), besides, the DC level 4 is WAY less money then something like a RF or JL and will perform just as good, if not better in the right box.

M3!!! And I dont know personal preference, Ive been in all three but something about the M3 makes me like it more. , too bad there is no is-F being compared there.

You *could* use a regular router, something basic like a WRT54G, etc, and simply plug it into your computer and go into the control panel and turn off DHCP and if it asks what type of internet connection and you have the option to hit none you can do that. And then simply plug everything into the switch using ports 1-4 (For example plug the main line into 1 and the other 2 components into 2 and 3). What this will do is simply create almost a bridge in the network, it will work as if the router wasn't there because the router itself would not be searching for a DHCP address whatever computer or component you add to it will. Also, any devices you connect wirelessly should work as well. Just make sure you have all your devices mac addresses registered with the universities computer tech whatever if they require it, which most do.