jeffm4688

Your best path to do this is to simply do a Big 3 (1/0 engine ground, 1/0 to your main battery, and 1/0 from your main battery ground to chassis) And then to run a 1/0 from the main battery positive to your rear battery positive. The whole point of a Big 3 is to in theory get maximum output from your alternator by increasing the wire size (causing less resistance)

I heard these on a 9K and they sounded amazing, these things are beasts.

Can you give me a quote on what an XL 18 would normally be to 11968 even though they are out of stock? And level 4 12's with upgraded soft parts ?

I was considering getting a Droid Bionic, I have a thunderbolt now. My only question though would be the screen quality ? Is it that bad ? I had a droid X and the quality of that screen was HORRIBLE. I hated it, if the bionic is as bad or worse I wouldn't even consider looking at buying it.

I agree he will be starving that amp with a big 3 and a battery. He should have at least a ~220-240A alt the biggest XS upfront with a D3400 or D3100 in the back and he should be fine drop wise. Of course that also assumes he has good solid grounds for everything as well. You dropping to below 12 with an after market alt on a 2500 kinda stinks, but then again your still running stock battery & sometimes that can bring down the whole setup.

Depends on if the carrier itself will allow you to activate a sprint ESN number and if they have the technology. If your porting a sprint phone to a non CDMA network (If the canadian carrier only offers you a sim card or requires a sim card to be in the phone) then you can't use a sprint phone.

Made that mistake within the first twenty minutes, but caught myself before the MOD's did lol.

Just recently got a mechman 270A for my `08 cobalt. Direct bolt on and it made my dimming go away completely. Pretty sure I have one of these newer units in my car cause you never made other units for my newer 08 2.2L ecotec?

I've had both a G25 and G27, kinda miss them. Probably the best gaming wheel but a little on the expensive side. Worth it if you have a place to mount everything up correctly.

+1 I think that you should look into a PS3 as well, the only downside about the blurays is the price of each movie, although, if you have a 3D capable TV I would go with a bluray player.

If you like to use your phone and actually have service you gotta go with a contract company. $279 to replace a phone is stupid, honestly, terminate the contact and buy another verizon phone or go with someone like at&t depending on service in your area. What kind of phone was it that you broke ? If you have your heart set on prepaid most prepaid providers run off the bigger carriers. I know boost is basically sprint can't think of the others and their networks off the top of my head

The iPhone 4 and 4s will both run on 4g network speeds, but do not display the 4G icon due to the lack of 4g coverage by AT&T and Verizon , the iPhone 5 will be a complete 4g phone http://www.freep.com/article/20111013/COL41/110130500/Mark-W-Smith-Which-iPhone-4S-should-you-get- http://www.apple.com/iphone/features/ Only the 4S has the HSDPA antenna, so the iPhone 4 won't benefit from the increased speed. And do keep in mind the numbers are theoretical maximums. Verizon threw over 100mb/s through their 4G LTE network, but due to many users's usage the most you'll reliably get out of it is ~20mb/s. It's faster 3G, but it's still 3G It really is too bad that the iPhone will not see 4g speeds, not the 4s anyway. Yes, it has the HSPA antennae in it, but thats mainly for at&t as the network is run by them, but is not 4G LTE. Two different technologies. At least some people will start seeing 14-15mb downloads with the 4S. provided HSPA+ is available in your area.

+1, unless you need crazy reliability, which DSL doesn't really offer compared to cable anymore then cable is your best bet. DSL is extremely slow compared to even the basic cable packages. I agree when you say DSL is not worth it, and that yes it is actually transmitted through ~22 gauge wire and is either one(green & red) or two (+black and yellow) twisted pairs which doesn't really give you much play to work with. Add in the older technology and your likely stuck behind something that doesn't have the ability to transmit data anywhere above 3MBPS, more like 1MBPS unless your very close to the main infrastructure building. The only thing I disagree with is AT&T U-verse, it is not DSL and is actually FTTH (Fiber to the home) and is capable of waaaaay faster speeds then the 12mbps they offer as a max speed on their best package. They actually run fiber right up to your house (verizon fios actually utilizes their speed and offers up to 100mbps I believe now) and then they throw it through an ONT and convert it to a coax signal. Kind of the same thing for cable, except its not really 40-50 wires, the coax line basically travels from your house into a splitter in the ground (or on the pole) and converts into a larger coax line till it hits the node in which fiber then takes over from that point. The problem with cable is the longer the run of coax the worse the signal & connection gets, which is why the connection speed fluctuates. Long story short: If you had verizon fios, I would go with that any day of the week, second though I would choose cable over U-Verse or DSL.

Ok, I was actually thinking the same thing, I was thinking 3-3.5 cubic foot though tuned to around 31 though. If I was looking to feed it less power, more around 1000W RMS, what do you think I should be looking at size and port wise ?

I have a friend with a full size pickup who has one of the seats folded down in the back with a JL W7 on it. He has a nice sub, with a nice amp (T1500-1bdcp) but he continues to blow the sub up. At this point, its in a 4.5 cubic foot box tuned to ~32 hz with like 9.36 port area per foot. He is feeding the sub around ~1500W RMS, I know these are designed to handle somewhere around that, but AFAIK these subs will also do well on ~1000W I'm looking to design a new box for this sub, can anyone add some insight on what kind of tuning I should be looking at and around what size would be good ? I can face the port and sub up or toward the rear(currently faced toward rear). Not sure, looking for anyone who has any kind of experience on how I should able to run this sub without blowing it up again, What size box could / would anyone suggest and what size port (or port area) should I be looking at ?