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Messed up Solo x 18 [HELP!]


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You could have a shim made at a machine shop (on a lathe, wouldnt take long) from a piece of pipe that is ~5.5mm thick (get them to measure the gap on each side then average the measurements) and just push the shim into the gap to realign the pole (and entire back plate) with the top plate. If the magnet slugs dont move they should still be fine since they usually have a larger gap anyways.

I'd check my solo-x 18 for you but its buried under some stuff right now..

EDIT

Make sure the shim is long so you can remove it after lol.. dont want to put it in then never get it out again!!! :popcorn:

Edited by STEvil

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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You could have a shim made at a machine shop (on a lathe, wouldnt take long) from a piece of pipe that is ~5.5mm thick (get them to measure the gap on each side then average the measurements) and just push the shim into the gap to realign the pole (and entire back plate) with the top plate. If the magnet slugs dont move they should still be fine since they usually have a larger gap anyways.

I'd check my solo-x 18 for you but its buried under some stuff right now..

EDIT

Make sure the shim is long so you can remove it after lol.. dont want to put it in then never get it out again!!! :popcorn:

Why is your sub buried? Does it work?

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Because there's a pair of 21's sitting on top of it, some 18's around it, and a stack of amps... plus who knows what else.

Needs a recone.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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You could have a shim made at a machine shop (on a lathe, wouldnt take long) from a piece of pipe that is ~5.5mm thick (get them to measure the gap on each side then average the measurements) and just push the shim into the gap to realign the pole (and entire back plate) with the top plate. If the magnet slugs dont move they should still be fine since they usually have a larger gap anyways.

That's a really good idea! It's definitely going to be tough though to find a metal pipe that is the exact outer diameter of the gap and the exact thickness to fit into the gap. Now you've got me thinking... :clapping:

EDIT: I was also told that there are alignment bolts which go through the basket into the top plate (and probably the magnets and the t-yoke). I can see the bolts, but they have dried glue on each one (there's 3 bolts per pillar, so 12 bolts total). I don't know if those would help me at all or not, but if it's something as simple as aligning them, then using brute-force can go to the bottom of the list

Edited by MuRKRoW

Sound Solutions Audio ZCON 18

Crescendo Audio BC3500D

JVC KD-R80BT headunit

Alpine/Pioneer mids & highs

4 group 34 agm batteries

Knukonceptz 3x0ga. terminals

Kicker/XS Power 0ga. wiring

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Those bolts only go into the top plate.

Use a lathe to machine the pipe to the correct size.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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Those bolts only go into the top plate.

Use a lathe to machine the pipe to the correct size.

12 bolts to hold the top plate? Are you sure?

Sound Solutions Audio ZCON 18

Crescendo Audio BC3500D

JVC KD-R80BT headunit

Alpine/Pioneer mids & highs

4 group 34 agm batteries

Knukonceptz 3x0ga. terminals

Kicker/XS Power 0ga. wiring

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yes

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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Isnt the 18 a little over 100lbs with the cone? $hipping it out to fixmyspeaker is going to cost money and then to return it plus fix it. Id play it as is untill in cant any more or sell it. I bet someone ll.buy it. Just make sure they know whats wrong with it

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Isnt the 18 a little over 100lbs with the cone? $hipping it out to fixmyspeaker is going to cost money and then to return it plus fix it. Id play it as is untill in cant any more or sell it. I bet someone ll.buy it. Just make sure they know whats wrong with it

It weighs 103lbs. And the cone maybe weighs 2 or 3lbs. It was a $1600 subwoofer when I got it, so paying around $100 to ship it there, then probably another $100 to have it fixed, then another $100 to ship it back is much better than spending another $1600. Oh and by the way, the cost of a recone for this is right around $300 too so it wouldn't be much different spending that for the basket/motor lol :shrug: In the end, it's all just more money to make my car shake :P

Sound Solutions Audio ZCON 18

Crescendo Audio BC3500D

JVC KD-R80BT headunit

Alpine/Pioneer mids & highs

4 group 34 agm batteries

Knukonceptz 3x0ga. terminals

Kicker/XS Power 0ga. wiring

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