Gotloud555 Posted October 9, 2011 Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 Could be alternator not charging properly. Have you done anything under the bay?? Not sure if those stinger voltage stuff are underrated.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 I always have seen when the diodes go on an alt you have a ton of flickering with your lights at all rpm's or a slightly varying voltage, his is too drastic to be a diode calling it quits. It may be a bad brush or winding in it. One thing you can do to check up on your alt would be to take off your belt for it and rock the pulley on it from the top and bottom and left and right side. If the pulley seems to wobble a little your bearing on the alt is bad and you need either a new alt or new bearing, id just get a new bearing depending on how old the alt is. Also since it isnt very clear, what happens when you are at idle or in a complete stop and your engine is idling slowly and your voltage is in the 12v range but you slowly rev up the engine? Does it slowly go back up or does it take a ton of gas to make it raise? I had a problem with my first alt from mechman where it charged great at idle but was super loud and whenever my rpm's exceeded 2000 the alt would turn off and stop charging and i would be running straight off battery power until i let off the gas to a little below 2000 rpm's and it charged back up. Id start by checking your connections and making sure they arent corroded or loose, check the alts temperature when the engine is cold (preferably let the engine sit overnight and turn it on, let it idle for awhile and see if the alt gets super hot or if it stays fairly cool) alts do get hot when they are loaded down or the engine bay gets really hot but shouldnt get hot after 5 minutes of idling with little to no current draw. Im personally thinking your alt is bad and needs replacing. Quote 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KickerKid58 Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 I always have seen when the diodes go on an alt you have a ton of flickering with your lights at all rpm's or a slightly varying voltage, his is too drastic to be a diode calling it quits. It may be a bad brush or winding in it. One thing you can do to check up on your alt would be to take off your belt for it and rock the pulley on it from the top and bottom and left and right side. If the pulley seems to wobble a little your bearing on the alt is bad and you need either a new alt or new bearing, id just get a new bearing depending on how old the alt is. Also since it isnt very clear, what happens when you are at idle or in a complete stop and your engine is idling slowly and your voltage is in the 12v range but you slowly rev up the engine? Does it slowly go back up or does it take a ton of gas to make it raise? I had a problem with my first alt from mechman where it charged great at idle but was super loud and whenever my rpm's exceeded 2000 the alt would turn off and stop charging and i would be running straight off battery power until i let off the gas to a little below 2000 rpm's and it charged back up. Id start by checking your connections and making sure they arent corroded or loose, check the alts temperature when the engine is cold (preferably let the engine sit overnight and turn it on, let it idle for awhile and see if the alt gets super hot or if it stays fairly cool) alts do get hot when they are loaded down or the engine bay gets really hot but shouldnt get hot after 5 minutes of idling with little to no current draw. Im personally thinking your alt is bad and needs replacing. It does take a significant amount of gas to get back to 14.4. a little over 3k rpms to be exact. I am about 90% pos. that is is this ELD circuit that is in place to supposedly save fuel by turning off the alt. under a certain set of conditions-- post from someone on the thread Jesseland started cuz his civic has the same prob-- The computer instructs the alternator to drop from 14.5 volts to 12.5 (ie. not charging the battery) when all of the following are true: - Load below 10A - Speed below 40 MPH - Engine speed below 3600 RPM - Coolant temp above 140 F - A/C off - Intake air temp above 65 F - Brake switch off - Fuel cut-off not active turn your AC on -------- I tried the AC trick and even with almost zero air flow (barely turning it on) my voltage jumped back up..... for 10-20 sec Heres a post on a honda forum i found that shows a possible solution i might try out http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/audio-visual-electronics-10/honda-electrical-load-detection-eld-bypass-32726/ Quote 06 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2 DC Level4 12" Soundstream TA1.3000d 4 RF Punch 6.5" Components 2 RF Punch 3.5" 2-ways RF Prime 400.4D XS Power XP950 +&-run of XScorpion 1/0 OFC My Civic Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundcheck11 Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 if your volt meter is hooked to the amp then your getting direct power off the amp. If you want direct current from alternator you need to get a regular volt guage and wire it to your ignition wire and that will give you firect voltage from the alternator. with that stinger volt guage it hooks to the amp so whenever your amp is on it draws power. everything you let off the gas pedal voltage will drop. when your sitting at a light and there is a load on the alternator your voltage will drop. like one other person said your possibly dropping below the level were the alt is actually charging and that is why you are getting voltage drops. check all your charging system wires and make sure they are in good condition. try sitting in your driveway with a voltmeter and turn everything one on the car and check and see if the alternator is actually charging the battery. if you dont see the voltage drop and come back quickly. if it comes back slowly it could be that the diodes are abit worn out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KickerKid58 Posted October 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 i have the voltmeter wired directly to the + terminal of the battery. I have found a solution I am just a little fuzzy on a small detail regarding a toggle switch. Ive used tons of the simple ones in the past but im just curious how to wire a toggle switch with MULTIPLE THROWS. Is this just a basic toggle that has a (off) middle position and say two different on positions (up and down)? heres what I'm goin on-- ______________________________________________________________________________________________ If I interpret your diagram correctly, a simple SPDT toggle switch would work if wired like this: 1. Cut ELD green/red wire as in your circuit. 2. The half of that wire coming from the PCM goes to the POLE of the toggle switch. 3. The other half goes to one of the THROWS of the switch; the POLE would be switched to this THROW when I want to ELD to work normally. 4. The other THROW goes through an 820-ohm resistor to the black ELD ground wire at the plug; switching to this THROW would bypass the ELD and cause the alternator to turn on and charge the battery all the time. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________ is this the rough diagram for the switch?? with possibly another ground for the switch? just need a basic toggle no light or anything Quote 06 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2 DC Level4 12" Soundstream TA1.3000d 4 RF Punch 6.5" Components 2 RF Punch 3.5" 2-ways RF Prime 400.4D XS Power XP950 +&-run of XScorpion 1/0 OFC My Civic Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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