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dont get an o-scope, a dd-1 is cheaper and more accurate. I would get a dd-1 if i didnt have my scope but im perfectly fine with how mine are set with the scope. I havent done anything wrong with my system other than popping off the dustcap on my smd but i glued that back on and its not moving at all. lol.

I learned that whole under powering thing with my old solox sub i had. I fed it 1400w rms at 4 ohms and it barely got it moving and it was far from being loud but that damn thing got hotter than hell and smelled a ton. I eventually wound up burning the coil on it for good and it quit on me. I always recommend to save your time and money and do it right the first time. Trust me, i learned this the hard way. I blew well over half the cost of my current system blowing up subs, amps, burning wire, etc because i couldnt afford the good stuff at the time and quite honestly didnt know crap about it then like i do now so it made me waste a damn hefty amount of money on things im just throwing out to the curb. Its like i tell everyone i help on here, take my advice because i have learned a lot of good things from the expensive mistakes i have made with my system and a ton of other things i work on.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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I am actually majoring in computer engineering and my dad is an electronic engineering professor so I can borrow an oscilloscope from the lab xD. One more question which is actually unrelated to my original thread but I don't think its worth creating another one. I have a 08 Nissan sentra se-r spec v and it had a "premium" rockford fosgate system. I would replace it with my own head-unit but that would disable the trip computer on my car. So I was wondering if I could use a high level to line level converter to give a signal to my amp. My concern about this is sound quality. Do these noticeably degrade the sound quality? Also the stock rockford amp puts out 100w to each rear channel which is what I would use for the sub, but all line level converters I have found say they can only handle 50w :(

Edited by andale927
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i read over on CA.com that if the sub is able to take at least 4 times the power that the amp can put out (before clipping), no matter how bad you clip it, it won't kill the sub. just food for thought. does that mean you should clip it anyways? no no no no

 

 

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i read over on CA.com that if the sub is able to take at least 4 times the power that the amp can put out (before clipping), no matter how bad you clip it, it won't kill the sub. just food for thought. does that mean you should clip it anyways? no no no no

This reminds me of an old post I read on here. Some of you may remember FordRedneck302 (I think that was his name?) He threw a small Sony Xplod amp with gains and bass boost wide open on a pretty beefy sub (don't remember the exact model). He said the sub got warm but didn't get smelly. If the coil on the woofer is designed to handle a certain high wattage of AC power, it can usually handle some DC power without totally frying.

Clipping is still bad, but it's definitely possible to send a square wave at a voice coil and have it survive if it's a strong enough coil and not too much power.

wtf is lolcats?

I'd def get a fat hooker if i had to resort to that kinda thing. I feel like they'd be grateful and work harder. Also its more bang for my buck, more real estate for my dollar if you catch my drift. its like the Costco of streetwalkers.

I was hoping for 150 :(.

I was hoping she would let me put it in her butt

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You can get a high to low converter but most ones i have found are crap. I would get one that is also a sound processor too. My 3sixty.2 has the high level input and outputs rca's and i used it playing around with my home theater system in my room and it sounded great through it. I helped another guy on here with a high/low converter which would clip at any level he set it at but he got a high/low converter that was also a soundprocessor/eq and it worked great for him. His dd-1 didnt find any distortion till he turned up the gain where his old high/low converter had distortion at all volume levels. If you really want a clear sounding system with a ton of great control i always recommend something like the rockford fosgate 3sixty.2 (and soon enough the .3) as they are great tools to have when you install a system whether keeping the headunit stock or aftermarket.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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i read over on CA.com that if the sub is able to take at least 4 times the power that the amp can put out (before clipping), no matter how bad you clip it, it won't kill the sub. just food for thought. does that mean you should clip it anyways? no no no no

This reminds me of an old post I read on here. Some of you may remember FordRedneck302 (I think that was his name?) He threw a small Sony Xplod amp with gains and bass boost wide open on a pretty beefy sub (don't remember the exact model). He said the sub got warm but didn't get smelly. If the coil on the woofer is designed to handle a certain high wattage of AC power, it can usually handle some DC power without totally frying.

Clipping is still bad, but it's definitely possible to send a square wave at a voice coil and have it survive if it's a strong enough coil and not too much power.

you guys are both right. it wont fry it. completely. You can still damage it pretty good though.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

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2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

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8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

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A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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