Lucas702 Posted October 31, 2011 Report Posted October 31, 2011 Im in the process of re-doing the previous owner's 4awg relocation to 1/0 to the trunk, he had no fuse on the main power wire to the battery. Which side of the wire should I put my ANL fuse holder? Should I place one at each end possibly(I have 2)? Also, what is something that I can use as a post in the engine bay where the larger wires meet up? I would prefer if someone could point me towards something a bit sturdier than a bolt electrical taped haha! The car is a 91 mitsu galant vr4 if it matters
bumonskateboard6 Posted October 31, 2011 Report Posted October 31, 2011 Definitely fuse both ends of the wire leading from the back to the front it will protect either side if it gets a short and not burn up the car. I'm not sure what you mean by where the larger wires meet up though so some more information could help on that. Current Systems: 2011 BMW 335i Hertz HDP1 DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber 2002 Acura TlKenwood DNX9980HD2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 CoilsDC 3.5kHertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 RearHertz HDP4 AmpDC Power Engineering 260 Amp AltBig 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0XS Power D2400 Up Front i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch... going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box... Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth. A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?
Lucas702 Posted October 31, 2011 Author Report Posted October 31, 2011 Definitely fuse both ends of the wire leading from the back to the front it will protect either side if it gets a short and not burn up the car. I'm not sure what you mean by where the larger wires meet up though so some more information could help on that. Im talking where the starter, alternator, battery, and fuse box wires meet up in the bay. How should I go about determining fuse sizes, as in which current draw should I go by? Thanks!
Geardropper Posted November 4, 2011 Report Posted November 4, 2011 ____+?= whats r u after im confused u just got your answer Red light rev ya engines..light goes green u take off, petal to the floor.I take it slow but some how seem to catch up with u at he next red.So u think u can do it again.light goes green you stall..i put my foot down just to show u what fast really looks like
mr151 Posted November 6, 2011 Report Posted November 6, 2011 Hook it to the terminal on the front battery.
dereileak Posted November 6, 2011 Report Posted November 6, 2011 Definitely fuse both ends of the wire leading from the back to the front it will protect either side if it gets a short and not burn up the car. I'm not sure what you mean by where the larger wires meet up though so some more information could help on that. Im talking where the starter, alternator, battery, and fuse box wires meet up in the bay. How should I go about determining fuse sizes, as in which current draw should I go by? Thanks! Fuses are there to protect the wire, no if's ands or but's, always fuse for what the wire can safely take, its designed to stop the wire from going into flames if there is to much current going through it, if you have to much current, and its fused right, then you need to upgrade the wiring in the vehicle, always fuse wires from any 12v spot from a battery, exceptions include bus bars and amps mounted close to batteries, but any stretch longer then I would say 2-3 feet of wire, and or goes through the vehicle needs to have a fuse on it, no matter the wire size Example, I used a relay for my remote turn on that runs all the way to the back, you would want to fuse the 12v in line of that relay, in case that remote wire grounds out, otherwise it will light that wire up as a dead short will cause lots of current to flow through, especially when the source is from a 40 amp wire from the ignition harness 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)
jmander11 Posted November 6, 2011 Report Posted November 6, 2011 Also, what is something that I can use as a post in the engine bay where the larger wires meet up? I would prefer if someone could point me towards something a bit sturdier than a bolt electrical taped haha! Go to a local automotive place and pickup a top post or side post terminal pack. One I picked up has 4 bolts to screw lugs onto as well as compresses wire in the middle (Using that for my factory 8 gauge wiring atm).
Neo_frog Posted November 6, 2011 Report Posted November 6, 2011 Or for a small fee, I could make you some buss bars and solve your problem. Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/
shogen Posted November 6, 2011 Report Posted November 6, 2011 Or for a small fee, I could make you some buss bars and solve your problem. ^^^^buss bars!! we want photos!!! Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear) beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true.
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