KHRISS Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 no mr. meade its my fault im the one with no experience and knowledge and yes the t1000.4 its a freaking beast lol for now ill try buying the dd1 ASAP CURRENT SYSTEM (VEHICLE) 2005 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE (HEAD UNIT) KENWOOD KDC BT848U (DASHBOARD) INFINITY KAPPA 32.9CF (FRONT DOOR) JBL P693 (REAR DOOR) KENWOOD EXCELON KFC-X1730 (TWEETER) KICKER KS25 X 2 (SUB WOOFER) COMING SOON (4 CHANNEL AMP) ROCKFORD FOSGATE T1000-4ADCP (1 CHANNEL AMP) ROCKFORD FOSGATE T2500BDCP X 2 (PROCESSORS) AUDIOCONTROL DQXS & EPICENTER & MATRIX PLUS & DDC (BATTERY) 1 OPTIMA YELLOW TOP (SIGNAL WIRES) KICKER XI (POWER CABLES) KICKER PKD1 (SPEAKER WIRE) KICKER 12 GAUGE (INTERIOR) DYNAMAT COMING SOON 2 FI SP4 18 COMING SOON 2 XS POWER XP3000 COMING SOON DC POWER 270XP ALT COMING SOON Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 The dd-1 isn't going to help you when you have a bunch of different types of speakers wired the way you do. Get two sets of beast comps, one component to each channel of the RF, at 4 ohms since you don't know what the fuck you're doing. If you MUST have the extra tweeters, get a separate amp for them. As far as the DQXS, you're in way over your head. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackedout Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Not that I'm not saying anything everyone else already has, but you set yourself up for failure. Your front stage is wired somewhere around 1 ohm, while your rear stage might be alright (for the amp) with a couple factors considered. The factors being that, when wired in line with a crossover, tweeters sometimes have no impact on nominal ohm load @ the amp. So if you hook up a multimeter on the rear, you might actually see only the resistance of the speaker. Your best bet would be to change out the 6x9s to 6.5" components. And grab a driver that will take 100 watts for the rear. Pretty much the only thing worth keeping is the tweeters in the rear. A pair will work fine. The chances of you noticing a gain with 2 pairs of tweeters in the rear vs 1 pair is probably minimal. If you want a gain on tweeter output learn about active crossovers. A dd-1 won't save your speakers. They can't thermally and mechanically handle the power you're giving them. Trunk Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 lol i tried to tell him nice... but when you dont listen the forum drops the hammer. as to blackedout's comments, i would still get rid of all the extra tweeters. if he is obsessed with highs he should just get a comp set that comes with a metal dome tweeter. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 this thread makes me lol Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHRISS Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 ok i will do that but im in a tight budget only if i sell my current stuff to get new one and yes i get it but i dont have that much $$$$ for high end components CURRENT SYSTEM (VEHICLE) 2005 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE (HEAD UNIT) KENWOOD KDC BT848U (DASHBOARD) INFINITY KAPPA 32.9CF (FRONT DOOR) JBL P693 (REAR DOOR) KENWOOD EXCELON KFC-X1730 (TWEETER) KICKER KS25 X 2 (SUB WOOFER) COMING SOON (4 CHANNEL AMP) ROCKFORD FOSGATE T1000-4ADCP (1 CHANNEL AMP) ROCKFORD FOSGATE T2500BDCP X 2 (PROCESSORS) AUDIOCONTROL DQXS & EPICENTER & MATRIX PLUS & DDC (BATTERY) 1 OPTIMA YELLOW TOP (SIGNAL WIRES) KICKER XI (POWER CABLES) KICKER PKD1 (SPEAKER WIRE) KICKER 12 GAUGE (INTERIOR) DYNAMAT COMING SOON 2 FI SP4 18 COMING SOON 2 XS POWER XP3000 COMING SOON DC POWER 270XP ALT COMING SOON Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 ok i will do that but im in a tight budget only if i sell my current stuff to get new one and yes i get it but i dont have that much $$$$ for high end components you have those brand friggin new JL components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 ok i will do that but im in a tight budget only if i sell my current stuff to get new one and yes i get it but i dont have that much $$$$ for high end components Back to the drawing board, save up, make smart purchases once instead of buying the wrong thing over and over and RESEARCH. Lesson learned. (hopefully) /Cheers and /Goodluck CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHRISS Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 yes i do and i have a brand new kicker 5 x 7 component 2000 something model they both rated at 75 rms though CURRENT SYSTEM (VEHICLE) 2005 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE (HEAD UNIT) KENWOOD KDC BT848U (DASHBOARD) INFINITY KAPPA 32.9CF (FRONT DOOR) JBL P693 (REAR DOOR) KENWOOD EXCELON KFC-X1730 (TWEETER) KICKER KS25 X 2 (SUB WOOFER) COMING SOON (4 CHANNEL AMP) ROCKFORD FOSGATE T1000-4ADCP (1 CHANNEL AMP) ROCKFORD FOSGATE T2500BDCP X 2 (PROCESSORS) AUDIOCONTROL DQXS & EPICENTER & MATRIX PLUS & DDC (BATTERY) 1 OPTIMA YELLOW TOP (SIGNAL WIRES) KICKER XI (POWER CABLES) KICKER PKD1 (SPEAKER WIRE) KICKER 12 GAUGE (INTERIOR) DYNAMAT COMING SOON 2 FI SP4 18 COMING SOON 2 XS POWER XP3000 COMING SOON DC POWER 270XP ALT COMING SOON Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHRISS Posted November 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 1 more question what about if my components are rated at 75 rms both sets and im feeding them 373 rms what do i got to do CURRENT SYSTEM (VEHICLE) 2005 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE (HEAD UNIT) KENWOOD KDC BT848U (DASHBOARD) INFINITY KAPPA 32.9CF (FRONT DOOR) JBL P693 (REAR DOOR) KENWOOD EXCELON KFC-X1730 (TWEETER) KICKER KS25 X 2 (SUB WOOFER) COMING SOON (4 CHANNEL AMP) ROCKFORD FOSGATE T1000-4ADCP (1 CHANNEL AMP) ROCKFORD FOSGATE T2500BDCP X 2 (PROCESSORS) AUDIOCONTROL DQXS & EPICENTER & MATRIX PLUS & DDC (BATTERY) 1 OPTIMA YELLOW TOP (SIGNAL WIRES) KICKER XI (POWER CABLES) KICKER PKD1 (SPEAKER WIRE) KICKER 12 GAUGE (INTERIOR) DYNAMAT COMING SOON 2 FI SP4 18 COMING SOON 2 XS POWER XP3000 COMING SOON DC POWER 270XP ALT COMING SOON Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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